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2G alternator wiring repair (and aero-airbox install)

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    #16
    100 amp on the police models, and yes thats the difference.
    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Originally posted by phayzer5
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

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      #17
      i would never trust that.

      that 2nd connector on the driverside fenderwell is a nice hotspot.

      Peter, you would have been better off with a 3G with all your extra acessories. its putting a nice load on your alt.

      once i get some money, i want a 3G. the alt connector is fine, but that one by the fenderwell worries me. doesnt look too safe.
      LTD is still here

      Comment


        #18
        The connector on mine at the fender actually has no current on it anymore, which is a good thing. The connector is cracked and stuff. There are definitely not the best, and usually they're just as bad as the one at the alternator itself. There is 1 wire in that harness that I'm still using, I think its the green one for the idiot light. Either that or its the oil level sender wire, I forget which is where. I've been meaning to axe the big nasty connector and install some nice smaller single wire connector in it's place. I'd also like to remove the entire length of wire running across the header panel since its not doing anything.
        86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
        5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

        91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

        1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

        Originally posted by phayzer5
        I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

        Comment


          #19
          If you trace the wires out, you'll find the two big black wires and I think the yellow one all meet downstream. When I wired my 2G after eliminating the stock EFI harness, I ran those three to a big wire (not sure of the gauge, but it's a little smaller than my battery cables) and ran that straight to the starter solenoid. I have a high-current fuse I'll put in before I really drive it much again. The field coil wires I ran to a long loop of wire that will run the idiot light once I put that in again. If I remember correctly, I reused the replacement alternator plugs I'd spliced in a few years back. So I think the whole shebang is a little stouter than stock, and the wiring is all less than 5 years old and even looks decent.
          2012 Mazda5 Touring | Finally working on the LTD again!

          Comment


            #20
            installing a 3g really isn't that hard

            1989 mercury grand marquis gs / 2014 ford focus s daily driver
            302 lopo with ho upper/ aod with trans go shift kit
            k code 3:55 posi rear/big brake swap tow package car

            Comment


              #21
              yea the 3ag upgrade is easy........anybody within driving distance to me, i can hook u up

              1986 lincoln towncar signature series. 5.0 HO with thumper performance ported e7 heads, 1.7 roller rockers, warm air intake, 65mm throttle body, 1/2" intake spacer, ported intakes, 3.73 rear with trac lock, 98-02 front brake conversion, 92-97 rear disc conversion, 1" rear swaybar, 1 3/16" front swaybar, 16" wheels and tires, loud ass stereo system, badass cb, best time to date 15.94 at 87 mph. lots of mods in the works 221.8 rwhp 278 rwt
              2006 Lincoln Town Car Signature. Stock for now
              1989 Ford F-250 4x4 much much more to come, sefi converted so far.
              1986 Toyota pickup with LSC wheels and 225/60/16 tires.
              2008 Hyundai Elantra future Revcon toad
              1987 TriBurner and 1986 Alaska stokers keeping me warm. (and some pesky oil heat)

              please be patient, rebuilding an empire!

              Comment


                #22
                Originally posted by 1987LTDmasta View Post
                Peter, you would have been better off with a 3G with all your extra acessories. its putting a nice load on your alt.
                I dont have any acessories in the 91 silly :p
                Pete ::::>>> resident LED addict and CFI defector LED bulb replacements
                'LTD HPP' 85 Vic (my rusty baby) '06 Honda Reflex 250cc 'Baileys' 91 Vic (faded cream puff) ClifFord 'ODB' 88 P72 (SOLD) '77 LTDII (RIP)
                sigpic
                85HPP's most noteworthy mods: CFI to SEFI conversion w/HO upperstuff headers & flowmasters P71 airbox Towncar seats LED dash light-show center console w/5 gauge package LED 3rd brake light 3G alternator mini starter washer/coolant bottle upgrade Towncar power trunk pull underhood fuse/relay box 16" HPP wheels - police swaybars w/poly rubbers - budget Alpine driven 10 speaker stereo

                Comment


                  #23
                  Originally posted by 1987cp View Post
                  If you trace the wires out, you'll find the two big black wires and I think the yellow one all meet downstream. .

                  yes, the yellow is the battery sense wire. All 3 meet on my car at the fuse link, which happens to be right next to the battery. They're not hooked up any more but the wires are still there. The yellow battery sense line is what gets jumped from the VR plug to the output stud on the 3g alternator. Not entirely sure why Ford did the battery sense line how they did it, seems like several feet of extra wire that they could have saved 10 cents on per car by tying them together closer to the alternator.
                  86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                  5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                  91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                  1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                  Originally posted by phayzer5
                  I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                  Comment


                    #24
                    Man, don't get me started on all the wires I found in my harnesses that ran out to the wazoo only to turn around and head right back to the source. Great way to add bulk and make failure of random stuff at least twice as likely. I can only assume these funny things were intended for an accessory package my car didn't have, but I can't explain the retarded way of wiring the alternator. :nonono:
                    2012 Mazda5 Touring | Finally working on the LTD again!

                    Comment


                      #25
                      Originally posted by gadget73 View Post
                      yes, the yellow is the battery sense wire. All 3 meet on my car at the fuse link, which happens to be right next to the battery. They're not hooked up any more but the wires are still there. The yellow battery sense line is what gets jumped from the VR plug to the output stud on the 3g alternator. Not entirely sure why Ford did the battery sense line how they did it, seems like several feet of extra wire that they could have saved 10 cents on per car by tying them together closer to the alternator.
                      I've been doing lots of research lately because I'm going to do the 3g upgrade. The reason I found for Ford running the battery sense that way was to sense true voltage at the battery and not the alternators output.
                      sigpic
                      1986 Grand Marquis LS 2 Door
                      Ext: Medium Shadow Blue Metallic, Int: Midnight Blue, 3.08 open, 235/70/15 Goodyear Aquatread III, Rebuilt AOD w/ Transgo Shift Kit, 3G upgrade from 95 5.0 Mustang, Walker Dual Exhaust w/ H pipe, Viper 5900ST alarm, De-smogged, Rear Civ. Sway Bar, and more.

                      Comment


                        #26
                        makes sense, though if they'd just used a heavy enough wire for the connection between the alternator and battery, the voltage loss across it would have been negligible. I get about a quarter volt of loss on my 4 gauge cable from the alternator to battery.
                        86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                        5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                        91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                        1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                        Originally posted by phayzer5
                        I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                        Comment


                          #27
                          Anybody here use Welding supply cables for the battery cable? because when you look an the inside of them the copper strands are much thicker then what we would get at a normal auto parts store bought battery cable.
                          YouTube. FaceBook Crown Vic Group

                          Comment


                            #28
                            I'm in the process of getting my 3g stuff together but I'm going to try E&B/West Marine for the wiring. It's supposed to cost less, but I have to see what they have first. I don't know how exactly the wires compare to welding but my Dad used them for the Shore Power hookup on our boat. What difference you think larger copper strands would make?
                            sigpic
                            1986 Grand Marquis LS 2 Door
                            Ext: Medium Shadow Blue Metallic, Int: Midnight Blue, 3.08 open, 235/70/15 Goodyear Aquatread III, Rebuilt AOD w/ Transgo Shift Kit, 3G upgrade from 95 5.0 Mustang, Walker Dual Exhaust w/ H pipe, Viper 5900ST alarm, De-smogged, Rear Civ. Sway Bar, and more.

                            Comment


                              #29
                              Well the electricity flows over the copper wires and not in them so more surface area would mean better flow...(less resistance)

                              yeah I'm a book nerd...lol
                              YouTube. FaceBook Crown Vic Group

                              Comment


                                #30
                                That's okay, it's really helpful cause I don't have electrical know-how. Simple as some of the wiring is in the case on the 3g conversion, I obsess to make sure my car doesn't burst into flames. I read somewhere, maybe tbird or thundercoupe forums that someone's car did catch fire after the 3g, how, I haven't a clue.
                                sigpic
                                1986 Grand Marquis LS 2 Door
                                Ext: Medium Shadow Blue Metallic, Int: Midnight Blue, 3.08 open, 235/70/15 Goodyear Aquatread III, Rebuilt AOD w/ Transgo Shift Kit, 3G upgrade from 95 5.0 Mustang, Walker Dual Exhaust w/ H pipe, Viper 5900ST alarm, De-smogged, Rear Civ. Sway Bar, and more.

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