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    #61
    That would explain why my map line is loose.

    I used the stem on the tree for the auto ebrake off for the egr tab tad stuff. Rather than the back of the upper.

    I will need to try these different routings I guess till it runs well. Just trying to pinpoint the leak.

    I knew I'd have trouble with the vacuum!
    1985 LTD Crown Victoria - Currently restoring after she caught fire! CFI to SEFI to Carb swap, all custom wiring, Duraspark 2 ignition, Motorcraft 2100 Carb, slicktop, Shorty headers dumped before rear axle, 140 Speedo, 3G alt, And currently building an engine for her.

    2000 Lincoln Town Car Signature Series - 165XXX, PI intake swap , 30 MPG Easy on the Highway, All options except dual exhaust. Currently looking for 2 front seats: Heated, Memory, and Light Graphite color!!

    Comment


      #62
      I just went and took a good look at mine... the small steel line closer to the TB feeds only the FPR, and other small one feeds the EGR/smog. You can just put a cap on that one for now until you get it running smooth.
      You could also easily have harvested a bad MAP or TPS sensor. You can test the TPS, I'm not sure about the MAP. I am fairly sure the CFI MAP sensor works fine (since it is the EEC4 type) if that's what you are using.
      Also check all other connections at the vacuum tree on the firewall - you might find something missing or a dry-rotted cap. The plastic tree itself can crack too, if handled too roughly.
      If you still suspect a vacuum leak, you can check your intake gaskets by spraying carb cleaner around them, if it gets sucked in you will hear the engine respond.
      Pete ::::>>> resident LED addict and CFI defector LED bulb replacements
      'LTD HPP' 85 Vic (my rusty baby) '06 Honda Reflex 250cc 'Baileys' 91 Vic (faded cream puff) ClifFord 'ODB' 88 P72 (SOLD) '77 LTDII (RIP)
      sigpic
      85HPP's most noteworthy mods: CFI to SEFI conversion w/HO upperstuff headers & flowmasters P71 airbox Towncar seats LED dash light-show center console w/5 gauge package LED 3rd brake light 3G alternator mini starter washer/coolant bottle upgrade Towncar power trunk pull underhood fuse/relay box 16" HPP wheels - police swaybars w/poly rubbers - budget Alpine driven 10 speaker stereo

      Comment


        #63
        I just went out to work on it for a little bit before work. I ran some heater hoses and further checked some vac lines.

        I hooked up the gas pedal. Thanks for that advice. And drove the car a little and noticed my hvac system did not work again as it didn't when I first got the car.

        I took a look at the tree and noticed the hard line for it broke at the firewall (again) so hopefully this is my only leak. I will have some time to fix it tomorrow along with swapping the map line if I still need to.

        I am using the CFI map so hopefully it's usable.

        Even with hesitation the throttle response with the SEFI is 1000 times better than the CFI was and I still don't have it working 100%

        Got a set of 2 new o2 sensors on eBay for $20 so I'll get those hooked up when I get them and I need a good air box/filter
        1985 LTD Crown Victoria - Currently restoring after she caught fire! CFI to SEFI to Carb swap, all custom wiring, Duraspark 2 ignition, Motorcraft 2100 Carb, slicktop, Shorty headers dumped before rear axle, 140 Speedo, 3G alt, And currently building an engine for her.

        2000 Lincoln Town Car Signature Series - 165XXX, PI intake swap , 30 MPG Easy on the Highway, All options except dual exhaust. Currently looking for 2 front seats: Heated, Memory, and Light Graphite color!!

        Comment


          #64
          CFI MAP is the same part. Just make sure its got good manifold vacuum and no leaks in the line.

          So just a recap, its the stock 85 CFI motor with SEFI right? No other changes?

          CFI runs smooth when its running right but nobody will make claims about it's performance, unless its that it sucks. I've driven a few that ran like a Swiss watch but they are gutless wonders.
          86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
          5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

          91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

          1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

          Originally posted by phayzer5
          I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

          Comment


            #65
            Yes that's correct it's all stock except for the timing chain.

            For the most part the CFI ran 'ok' but sometimes it hated to start and it definitely was gutless. I mean I know it's a heavy car and by no means aerodynamic but still.

            I just drove the SEFI for a short distance and it's like a completely different car. Well worth the money, which was only about a hundred bucks and the time.
            1985 LTD Crown Victoria - Currently restoring after she caught fire! CFI to SEFI to Carb swap, all custom wiring, Duraspark 2 ignition, Motorcraft 2100 Carb, slicktop, Shorty headers dumped before rear axle, 140 Speedo, 3G alt, And currently building an engine for her.

            2000 Lincoln Town Car Signature Series - 165XXX, PI intake swap , 30 MPG Easy on the Highway, All options except dual exhaust. Currently looking for 2 front seats: Heated, Memory, and Light Graphite color!!

            Comment


              #66
              Alright I fixed all visible vacuum breaks and sprayed carb cleaner around the intake. It didn't react at all so I guess that's good.

              Now that it's colder out it is having trouble even idling. It will start, run for a little and stall. If I give it gas it will stay running and when it's warm it will idle fine.

              When it idles it sounds really "chunky" I guess would describe it then it dies.

              All my vac lines are tight and have clamps. The egr and smog is capped off for now.

              My fuel pressure is at 45 psi while idling and about 30 with the key on.

              There are a few sensor connections that I did not use, one is a single push on connector under the egr that I cannot see what it would go to. The other is a similar style connector that goes deep down a little past the oil filter where I still have my original one plugged in.

              Any idea on what these are?

              Also, would timing need adjusted for SEFI to run smoothly?
              1985 LTD Crown Victoria - Currently restoring after she caught fire! CFI to SEFI to Carb swap, all custom wiring, Duraspark 2 ignition, Motorcraft 2100 Carb, slicktop, Shorty headers dumped before rear axle, 140 Speedo, 3G alt, And currently building an engine for her.

              2000 Lincoln Town Car Signature Series - 165XXX, PI intake swap , 30 MPG Easy on the Highway, All options except dual exhaust. Currently looking for 2 front seats: Heated, Memory, and Light Graphite color!!

              Comment


                #67
                Fuel pressure is too high, do you have vacuum hooked up to fuel pressure regulator? Those single push connectors are for the ENGINE idiot light. Not needed. However if you want to make it a funtioning check engine light, you can run one of those wires to the STO of the self test connector, to make it easier to scan for codes...

                Timing needs to be adjusted. They are programmed to run with base timing set at 10 degrees before top dead center. Disconnect spout connector and adjust.

                Your idle issue could be timing related, RPM related, TPS related or IAC related.

                I found that the best throttle response and idle control is found when the TPS is set exactly at 0.9 volts. If it's set over 1.1 volts at closed throttle, the computer will not use the IAC to adjust idle, it will only use timing. The computer will advance and retard timing first to fine tune idle speed. It will use the iac to control it, if parameters are too great for timing changes.

                It's also a good idea to check what RPM it idles at with the IAC unplugged. It should idle around 600-750 (give or take). If this is the case, you may need to adjust the screw on the throttle body until it almost stalls. That screw is normally not to be messed with (it's normally set to where it barely touches the butterfly), but you've got a whole bunch of mixed up parts on there, and you don't know if anyone messed with that screw before you got a hold of it.

                Comment


                  #68
                  single wire around the EGR valve sounds like the temperature sensor for the gauge?

                  check it for codes, it should tell you if there are any bad / missing sensors that the ECM cares about. A bad IAC or temperature sensor can make it idle stupid too. The temp sensors can fail in a way that don't code, but its easy to check with a voltmeter.
                  86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                  5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                  91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                  1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                  Originally posted by phayzer5
                  I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                  Comment


                    #69
                    Got some codes today some I know the reason for but others I don't.

                    KOEO

                    67- neutral drive switch circuit failure, circuit open, or ac input high

                    I think this may be because I have the separate CFI neutral switch. But I'm not sure.

                    85- canister purge failure
                    I have the egr and smog plugged for now.

                    C
                    14- ignition profile pickup failure.
                    Magnetic pickup failure? Not sure. I have replaced ICM. But have stock distributor.

                    54- intake air charge temperature sensor circuit open. Vane air flow out of range.

                    I have no idea on this one.

                    33- egr not opening.
                    I have it plugged off for now.

                    29- insufficient input from speed sensor.
                    Probably because mine may be separate.

                    Any help on these would be great.

                    I still need to advance timing on it. And also I still have no o2 sensors connected. So codes caused by them could be discarded.

                    Thanks!
                    1985 LTD Crown Victoria - Currently restoring after she caught fire! CFI to SEFI to Carb swap, all custom wiring, Duraspark 2 ignition, Motorcraft 2100 Carb, slicktop, Shorty headers dumped before rear axle, 140 Speedo, 3G alt, And currently building an engine for her.

                    2000 Lincoln Town Car Signature Series - 165XXX, PI intake swap , 30 MPG Easy on the Highway, All options except dual exhaust. Currently looking for 2 front seats: Heated, Memory, and Light Graphite color!!

                    Comment


                      #70
                      85 means the evap solenoid isn't plugged in electrically.

                      54 means either the ACT is bad or unplugged

                      14 possibly means there is a flaky connection around the TFI module, or your pickup is on it's way to taking a dump. usually these don't code, so I'd go with flaky connection.

                      54, see above

                      33 - its unhooked

                      29 - also unhooked. 88+ ECM's had input from the VSS, 87- do not. Tie it in or not. It will cause an off-idle hesitation if this is not connected and the EGR is in place. No idea if it causes any other symptoms.
                      86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                      5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                      91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                      1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                      Originally posted by phayzer5
                      I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                      Comment


                        #71
                        Originally posted by gadget73 View Post
                        29 - also unhooked. 88+ ECM's had input from the VSS, 87- do not. Tie it in or not. It will cause an off-idle hesitation if this is not connected and the EGR is in place. No idea if it causes any other symptoms.
                        My Lincoln would also run really ragged (low idle and stall out sometimes) when coming to a stop. Once I connected up the VSS, this stopped.

                        Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
                        rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)
                        Originally posted by gadget73
                        ... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.
                        Originally posted by dmccaig
                        Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.

                        Comment


                          #72
                          54 means either the ACT is bad or unplugged
                          If this is the sensor by the driver fuel rail, under EGR its plugged in so it may be bad then.

                          14 possibly means there is a flaky connection around the TFI module, or your pickup is on it's way to taking a dump. usually these don't code, so I'd go with flaky connection.
                          My 85 ECM ran this code as well so maybe it is taking a dump

                          My Lincoln would also run really ragged (low idle and stall out sometimes) when coming to a stop. Once I connected up the VSS, this stopped.
                          This is exactly what is happening to me, so i will definitely want to wire this in, where did you make the connections to wire it in? also i'm not sure where VSS the would be

                          Thanks for the help
                          1985 LTD Crown Victoria - Currently restoring after she caught fire! CFI to SEFI to Carb swap, all custom wiring, Duraspark 2 ignition, Motorcraft 2100 Carb, slicktop, Shorty headers dumped before rear axle, 140 Speedo, 3G alt, And currently building an engine for her.

                          2000 Lincoln Town Car Signature Series - 165XXX, PI intake swap , 30 MPG Easy on the Highway, All options except dual exhaust. Currently looking for 2 front seats: Heated, Memory, and Light Graphite color!!

                          Comment


                            #73
                            Originally posted by fmansfield444 View Post
                            If this is the sensor by the driver fuel rail, under EGR its plugged in so it may be bad then.



                            My 85 ECM ran this code as well so maybe it is taking a dump



                            This is exactly what is happening to me, so i will definitely want to wire this in, where did you make the connections to wire it in? also i'm not sure where VSS the would be

                            Thanks for the help
                            VSS is on drivers side of transmission. It has two wires coming out of it. Green with white stripe and black with white stripe. If your car has cruise control you can find these wires under the hood running along the top of the wiper box. Or under the dash with a gray 3 pin connector with a see through plastic shroud.

                            Comment


                              #74
                              Oh duh. I knew that. I tapped into that to set up the tripminder.

                              I found a connector on the 88 harness that has the green white wire. But it also has the blue pink fuel flow wire with it.

                              The donor car did have a tripminder.

                              Because it had a tripminder I'm not sure if this green white wire is an output or an input.

                              The connector I'm talking about is near the ECM and I think it may go to the cabin on an 88 car to provide information to the tripminder.

                              Should I give the ECM speed input here or does it only give out speed information there?
                              1985 LTD Crown Victoria - Currently restoring after she caught fire! CFI to SEFI to Carb swap, all custom wiring, Duraspark 2 ignition, Motorcraft 2100 Carb, slicktop, Shorty headers dumped before rear axle, 140 Speedo, 3G alt, And currently building an engine for her.

                              2000 Lincoln Town Car Signature Series - 165XXX, PI intake swap , 30 MPG Easy on the Highway, All options except dual exhaust. Currently looking for 2 front seats: Heated, Memory, and Light Graphite color!!

                              Comment


                                #75
                                Alright I think I fixed the idle and hesitation problem today by advancing the timing as suggested.

                                It idled great for about 15 minutes, and had very little hesitation and when it warmed up it wasn't noticeable at all.

                                I connected EGR and smog vac lines and now I only get the codes for the Speed sensor, PIP, and Neutral Drive.

                                The temperature code went away after I reset the computer for a few minutes.

                                I wasn't able to do a KOER code check though, maybe because my Neutral switch is still part of the original ignition wiring. If anyone knows anything about this it'd be great.

                                Now I am finally almost done with this swap. The only thing that remains is the dreaded TV cable.

                                Here's a new video of it idling and giving it a little gas, it was smoking a little bit as you can see, but it went away and was very faint



                                Also notice my terrible bodywork skills at the butch of a slicktop

                                As always, thanks to you guys, I definitely could not have done this without all of your help
                                1985 LTD Crown Victoria - Currently restoring after she caught fire! CFI to SEFI to Carb swap, all custom wiring, Duraspark 2 ignition, Motorcraft 2100 Carb, slicktop, Shorty headers dumped before rear axle, 140 Speedo, 3G alt, And currently building an engine for her.

                                2000 Lincoln Town Car Signature Series - 165XXX, PI intake swap , 30 MPG Easy on the Highway, All options except dual exhaust. Currently looking for 2 front seats: Heated, Memory, and Light Graphite color!!

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