PotM GrandMarq.NET - Panther Headquarters Forum Index PotM
GMN Chat Room GMN's STORE!! GMN's Gallery Please!!
Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 20 of 38

Thread: Removing Window motor?

  1. #1
    GMN Young Gun FastGallopingPonies's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Massachusetts
    Posts
    965

    Default Removing Window motor?

    Alright I searched, not my best ability but I did try. Anyway I can't figure out how to remove the window motor from my passenger side front door. I've read about there being spots where to drill to get them out but I don't know where. if there is like a tutorial somewhere that would be much appreiciated. Just a good explination would be good, with pictures is a plus since it's normally easier for me to see it.

    Thanks in advance guys!

    :side note: the motor just makes a click when I hit the swith up or down. I read you should here the gear spinning if it needs to be rebuilt? Do they sometimes bind up? I'm hoping I can just rebuild it and be done with it.
    Resident diesel addict

  2. #2
    WARNING DON'T DERP AND DRIVE!
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    'Cada Oregon
    Posts
    4,682

    Default

    There is rivets that hold it in they are shiny round peaces of aluminium. hope this helps!

  3. #3
    Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Monroe, NC
    Posts
    2,433

    Default

    NO STOP!!!!Don't drill out the rivets,You Will be Sorry if you do.The rivets hold up the entire window regulator assembly,if you drill these out the entire window will come crashing down.There are three dimples near the bottom middle of the door,all within 2in of one another,that need to be drilled out.Just pull the door panel and you will see them.The motors can sometimes bind up and will just make a clicking sound when you hit the switch,so the ones you have may still be rebuildible.

    When I did mine I drilled the holes out with a 1/4in hole saw and then used a small socket screwdriver to remove the bolts holding the motor onto the regulator assembly,can't remember what size the socket was.After the 3 bolts are out,then push the motor away from the drive gear,and it will pop loose.When you reinstall the motor just hold it in place against the drive gear,line up the bolt holes and bolt it up,it will slide into the correct position on its own once the bolts are fully tightened.Reconnect the electrical connection,grease up the regulator assembly,test the window,reinstall the door panel,and enjoy your car even more with all the windows functional.

    Here's a good tip,When you are reinstalling the motor and having to reinsert the bolts threw the small holes in the door and back into the motor bracket to get them screwed in,use a small piece of tape to hold the bolt lightly onto the socket until its screwed in,and you will have a way easier time reinstalling the motors.
    Last edited by LTDMan83; 08-21-2006 at 09:29 AM.

  4. #4
    Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Monroe, NC
    Posts
    2,433

    Default

    Here's a pic I found on supermotors,of the dimples on the front door that need to be drilled out:


  5. #5
    Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Monroe, NC
    Posts
    2,433

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Custom87
    When I did mine I drilled the holes out with a 1/4in hole saw
    Correction: Sry,I meant to say 1/2in hole saw,...not 1/4in.

  6. #6
    GMN Young Gun FastGallopingPonies's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Massachusetts
    Posts
    965

    Default

    Thanks Custom87! I got my passenger motor out rebuilt it and got it back in working good as new. My Driver side rear came out but It looks to be an aftermarket since the internals where slightly different. The actual motor on that one was in terrible shape I took it apart cleaned the commutator and the rest of the armature along with the brushes. But it seems to be gone, gotta get to a yard a pull a few. Thanks again!
    Resident diesel addict

  7. #7
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Posts
    39,270

    Default

    I've gotten away with just 1/2" drill bits before, which is handy because I don't own a 1/2" hole saw for metal.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

  8. #8
    not embarrassed on a scooter 85crownHPP's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    central VA
    Posts
    12,773

    Default

    the hole only has to be big enough to get a 1/4" drive extention through it. You can slip the socket on the extention indsie the door panel.

  9. #9
    WARNING DON'T DERP AND DRIVE!
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    'Cada Oregon
    Posts
    4,682

    Default

    Sorry my bad.... I was thinking about when I took apart the doors to use all the parts on some new doors I got at the junk yard for the 89 GM that we have we used new rivets and everything............DONT DO WHAT I SAID sorry again for leading you astray

  10. #10
    Minivans are tangible evidence of Evil.. 85MercPark's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Harrisburg, PA
    Posts
    3,394

    Default

    I just drilled the rivets on mine, no problems at all.
    2000 Grand Marquis LS
    2000 F150 XLT 6 inches of lift.
    1987 Bill Blass Mark VII - Sold
    1985 Mercury Grand Marquis Colony Park- SOLD. to a little old lady
    Mercury Owners Group member
    Save The Whales, Restore an Old Station Wagon!!

  11. #11
    not embarrassed on a scooter 85crownHPP's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    central VA
    Posts
    12,773

    Default

    for the record... there are NO rivets holding the window motor in. only bolts.

    Rivets hold the regulator to the door, and the regulator to the glass.

  12. #12
    Minivans are tangible evidence of Evil.. 85MercPark's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Harrisburg, PA
    Posts
    3,394

    Default

    2000 Grand Marquis LS
    2000 F150 XLT 6 inches of lift.
    1987 Bill Blass Mark VII - Sold
    1985 Mercury Grand Marquis Colony Park- SOLD. to a little old lady
    Mercury Owners Group member
    Save The Whales, Restore an Old Station Wagon!!

  13. #13
    GMN Founder Grand Marquis GT's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 1982
    Location
    Wetumpka, AL
    Posts
    20,433

    Default

    Petemang speaks teh truth.
    1983 Grand Marquis 2Dr Sedan "Mercules"
    Tremec TKO conversion, hydraulic clutch, HURST equipped!


  14. #14
    Minivans are tangible evidence of Evil.. 85MercPark's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Harrisburg, PA
    Posts
    3,394

    Default

    So, you're telling me when I drilled out this rivets to remove the motor and regulator from my car that I didn't really do that?
    2000 Grand Marquis LS
    2000 F150 XLT 6 inches of lift.
    1987 Bill Blass Mark VII - Sold
    1985 Mercury Grand Marquis Colony Park- SOLD. to a little old lady
    Mercury Owners Group member
    Save The Whales, Restore an Old Station Wagon!!

  15. #15
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Posts
    39,270

    Default

    You don't need to pull the regulator to change the motor. It just makes more work. If you drill the dimples, you can pull the 3 bolts holding the motor without disturbing the regulator.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

  16. #16
    not embarrassed on a scooter 85crownHPP's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    central VA
    Posts
    12,773

    Default

    yes - you can get the motor out by only drilling 3 holes (not rivets) and then removing 3 bolts (not rivets)

    You CAN take out the whole regulator if you want though but you have to drill all those rivets.

    Some never panthers are that way too... I took a motor out of a 94 towncar without removing the regulator and I want to say i did a newer crown vic too.
    Ive done a lot of windows lately.... in land rovers, lexus', tempos, one in a durango, jeep grand cherokees... lots of em.
    Suprizingly, the cheapest/easierst to replace was the land rover. $105 for the regulator and it would have slipped right out if the old one wasnt bent up. 10mm bolts too, no rivets.
    most expensive/hardest was the Lexus... $560 for regulator/motor (was not a lexus that has a toyota sibling) and it was a PITA...
    Now at work whenever a bum window comes in they give it right to me lol.

  17. #17
    Minivans are tangible evidence of Evil.. 85MercPark's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Harrisburg, PA
    Posts
    3,394

    Default

    Now you tell me
    2000 Grand Marquis LS
    2000 F150 XLT 6 inches of lift.
    1987 Bill Blass Mark VII - Sold
    1985 Mercury Grand Marquis Colony Park- SOLD. to a little old lady
    Mercury Owners Group member
    Save The Whales, Restore an Old Station Wagon!!

  18. #18
    GMN Young Gun FastGallopingPonies's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Massachusetts
    Posts
    965

    Default

    Yeah I did what Pete and Gadget are saying no problems. I used a 1/2 inch bit as well since I also don't have any hole saws that small. But 3 bolts and it was out. Easy.
    Resident diesel addict

  19. #19
    Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Monroe, NC
    Posts
    2,433

    Default

    Glad I could help! I would definatly hit up the yards for more window motors,they are like $50-60 new!I got lucky with my Vic,all the motors were still in good shape,so I just had to rebuild them.At the yards if you have a 12V battery pack with you,you can pull the motors out and test them right on the spot,so you can make sure your not buying a bad one.

  20. #20
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Posts
    39,270

    Default

    I've had better luck with rebuilt OEM motors than with new cheapie motors. Used 2 cheapie motors for gear assembly donors to original Ford parts. Motors work fine now.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
GMN Approved Links!


www.rockauto.com www.adtr.net