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My 1989 Grand Marquis GS sedan "Ebyt"

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    #16
    If you're upgrading to the 2.5 in exhaust, consider a pair of 2.5 in Walker tailpipes (54016, 54017) originally intended for the Impala SS. (do a search here, lots of guys have them)

    Hard to come by nowadays but Rockauto still has them for about $35 apiece, I just picked up a pair and was only charged $13 shipping for both!

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      #17
      You'll need to add a friction modifier to the great oil too.

      Sent from my VS980 4G using Tapatalk
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        #18
        Originally posted by Louis View Post
        If you're upgrading to the 2.5 in exhaust, consider a pair of 2.5 in Walker tailpipes (54016, 54017) originally intended for the Impala SS. (do a search here, lots of guys have them)

        Hard to come by nowadays but Rockauto still has them for about $35 apiece, I just picked up a pair and was only charged $13 shipping for both!
        Will those work on a wagon? The only reason I ask is because the tips turn out the side and I have a hole in the bend just behind the axle. Are the hangers oriented right for me?



        Sent from the crapper
        1989 Country Squire - Twilight Blue, 347 stroker


        2005 Crown Victoria Sport - Black - Stainless Works full exhaust with Borla Pro XS mufflers, BBK 75mm TB, Accufab plenum, CVPI airbox, Heinous control arms, etc...

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          #19
          don't remember what type of gear oil... but pure synthetic is best (add friction modifier if not already in the fluid). fluid changes every 30K miles unless you're autocrossing it, then it might need to be more often. rebuilds schedule I go with is when it stops working and acts like an open diff.

          Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
          rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)
          Originally posted by gadget73
          ... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.
          Originally posted by dmccaig
          Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.

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            #20
            @sxcpotatoes: I won't be slicktopping Ebyt for a while.... probably not this summer. The top's cracking a bit, but it's not terrible. Shame they don't sell the chemicals that work together anymore. I'll be sure to look for the Goo Be Gone stuff when I prepare for the slicktop conversion.
            The Goo Gone nor the Goof Off stuff works anymore, they changed their formulas. Some people say aircraft/aluminum paint stripper, or just a heat gun (but none of those work well). Expect to spend 10-30 hours or better trying to get that glue off AFTER removing the cracked vinyl top.
            ,
            Slicktop '91 GS HO 4.30 rear. '82 Mark VI Tudor HO, '90 F-150 XLT, '62 project Heep, '89 Arizona Waggin' and '88 donor in PA, getting combined.

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              #21
              doesn't 3M make an adhesive stripper that works? I remember someone mentioning it... possibly Dave about the brown blob.

              Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
              rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)
              Originally posted by gadget73
              ... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.
              Originally posted by dmccaig
              Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.

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                #22
                Originally posted by BlackVic_P71 View Post
                Will those work on a wagon? The only reason I ask is because the tips turn out the side and I have a hole in the bend just behind the axle. Are the hangers oriented right for me?



                Sent from the crapper
                They will, you'd just need to put 90's on them.

                There are no hangers, it's a build-it-yourself exhaust system.
                2020 F250 - 7.3 4x4 CCSB STX 3.55's - BAKFlip MX4
                2005 Grand Marquis GS - Marauder sway bars, Marauder exhaust, KYB's
                2003 Marauder - Trilogy # 8, JLT, kooks, 2.5" exhaust, 4.10's/31 spline, widened rear's, metco's, addco's, ridetech's 415hp/381tq
                1987 Colony Park - 03+ frame swap, blown Gen II Coyote, 6R80, ridetechs, stainless works, absolute money pit. WIP

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                  #23
                  @Louis: I was looking for the Impala SS style tailpipes on Rockauto yesterday.... with the part #s you mentioned. I found these:
                  http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=137875
                  http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=137876

                  Price matches what you said. But they don't look anything like the setup on Zack's HPP Box. Is it just the angle of the picture?

                  @kodiak: That just jogged my memory.... knew the expression "friction modifier" was familiar. And then it came back: Diff fluid is different from other fluids.... you need to add friction modifiers to it. Diff fluid is also very viscous IIRC, similar to molasses.

                  @sly: I've heard really good things about pure synthetic for motor oil. I'm not at all surprised to hear pure synthetic diff fluid is good too. I'll see if I can find some with the friction modifier next time I go on an AutoZone safari (perhaps as early as this weekend).

                  @sxcpotatoes: Dang. Guess I'll just look around local AutoZones (hopefully soon) to see if I can find some aforementioned 3M adhesive remover. I'll definitely need it later.

                  Bought some 3M double-sided badge tape from a local AutoZone. Now just to find & re-affix the badges!
                  '89 Grand Marquis "Ebyt", '85 Grand Marquis "Eva", '94 Caprice "Kira"
                  '84 Town Car "Stacy", '79 New Yorker “Anita", '93 Town Car "Kelly"
                  '80 Mark VI "Allie", '94 Grand Marquis coming June, '79 LTD-S "Oksana"

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                    #24
                    Rear End Friction Modifier is available from your local Ford dealer or for better pricing, from EBAY. Get the Ford stuff...


                    "Hope and dignity are two things NO ONE can take away from you - you have to relinquish them on your own" Miamibob

                    "NEVER trade your passion for glory"!! Sal "the Bard" (Dear Old Dad!)

                    "Cars are for driving - PERIOD! I DON'T TEXT, TWEET OR TWERK!!!!"

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                      #25
                      Also check out www.bobistheoilguy.com their Motor Oil University articles are interesting.


                      Sent from my '85 Lincolin Town Car
                      Last edited by kodiak; 04-09-2014, 08:33 PM.
                      Using Tapatalk

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                        #26
                        @miamibob: Oh sweet! Didn't even know you could stuff like that on Ebay on the cheap. Will definitely buy the Ford stuff when I do.

                        @kodiak: Indeed. It's interesting when they compared the engines and the wear rates. It gets nerdy quickly, but I can follow it decently well

                        In the meantime, we have updates!

                        -Ebyt's registered, insured, plated, and 100% legit. Winning. Got to drive her around a bit.... and all was right with the world. Until I failed NYS inspection, haha. Dry rotted outer edges of tires will do that- even if said tires have a good amount of tread left. Other marks against her were rusted front brakes, which will be replaced accordingly.

                        -Bought a 130 amp small frame alternator, a set of four 16 inch wheels from a whale P71. Would've also gotten an aero rear end, but the yard I went to (Northside Salvage) didn't have it in stock yet. Because the aero rear end wasn't there, I didn't bother buying rear disc stuff. Ebyt's rear drums are fine as-is anyhow, they passed inspection with flying colors. Front discs did not; they were pretty rusted. They're getting replaced by a reputable shop as we speak. Ignition system will also be inspected, and fixed where necessary, so I won't need to start the car with a screwdriver anymore. Haha. Now just to decide on a set of 255/50/16 tires.

                        Quick question about tires. Can I still rock 255/50/16s even without the aero rear end? Any brake clearance issues n' stuff? I don't have the parts around for rear disc brakes (an aero rear end is a prerequisite, and I don't even have that yet!).
                        '89 Grand Marquis "Ebyt", '85 Grand Marquis "Eva", '94 Caprice "Kira"
                        '84 Town Car "Stacy", '79 New Yorker “Anita", '93 Town Car "Kelly"
                        '80 Mark VI "Allie", '94 Grand Marquis coming June, '79 LTD-S "Oksana"

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                          #27
                          Originally posted by Hearsesrock427 View Post
                          Quick question about tires. Can I still rock 255/50/16s even without the aero rear end? Any brake clearance issues n' stuff? I don't have the parts around for rear disc brakes (an aero rear end is a prerequisite, and I don't even have that yet!).
                          They'll fit fine (at least they should).

                          The Walker 54016 and 54017 are what you want.
                          http://www.grandmarq.net/vb/showthre...6-Alternatives
                          2020 F250 - 7.3 4x4 CCSB STX 3.55's - BAKFlip MX4
                          2005 Grand Marquis GS - Marauder sway bars, Marauder exhaust, KYB's
                          2003 Marauder - Trilogy # 8, JLT, kooks, 2.5" exhaust, 4.10's/31 spline, widened rear's, metco's, addco's, ridetech's 415hp/381tq
                          1987 Colony Park - 03+ frame swap, blown Gen II Coyote, 6R80, ridetechs, stainless works, absolute money pit. WIP

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                            #28
                            @pantera: Gotcha. As much I wanted the 255s, I ended up going with 245/50/16s. Much better prices for those compared to the 255s- some $200 difference! Reputable shop will redo front brakes, fix quirky ingniton, and mount new tires this week. Should be ready for the weekend. Once she's set cosmetically, I'll start ordering parts. The Walker pipes will be among them.

                            Questions on body work below.

                            I plan on fixing the surface rust this week. After reading a Hot Rod painting article, I think I've got a basic idea as to what needs to be done. Please correct me if I'm wrong:

                            PRIOR TO PAINTING:
                            -Mask-tape off any areas you don't want to paint
                            -Don your nitrile gloves and other protective things
                            -Remove surface rust with some sort of abrasive (Sandpaper, sanding board, etc.)

                            PAINTING:
                            -Hook up your spray gun
                            -Apply etching primer
                            -Apply urethane beige paint
                            -Apply accelerator, for quicker drying times

                            I hope that's how it goes in theory. If I understand the theory, I'll eventually understand reality. There are still problems though. Where would I go about finding Ebyt's beige paint, the primer, and the accelerator? What about the tools?
                            '89 Grand Marquis "Ebyt", '85 Grand Marquis "Eva", '94 Caprice "Kira"
                            '84 Town Car "Stacy", '79 New Yorker “Anita", '93 Town Car "Kelly"
                            '80 Mark VI "Allie", '94 Grand Marquis coming June, '79 LTD-S "Oksana"

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                              #29
                              If there is rust you can see, there is rust you CAN'T see. Be prepared.
                              1990 MGM: $50 E7 heads, HO cam, Holley SysteMAX lower intake, HO upper intake with an Explorer TB. LSC ECM. Lincoln logs into stock dual exhaust. K&N drop in air filter. Wide ratio AOD, 2400 converter with a 3.08 one tire fire out back. Car is less slow now. Then there's the '92 Beater. Dual 2.25" exhaust with shiny tips. Rumbles nice. Super slow. Burns oil too.

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                                #30
                                A couple of online sources for paint that I know of:

                                http://www.automotivetouchup.com/indexbrightcove.htm
                                http://www.duplicolor.com/

                                I have ordered from automotivetouchup for a couple of small practice spots. My first try kind of turned out terrible, so I'm not really good for answering any questions. Although the fiberglass piece above the pass side tail light that I did actually turned out decent, and the color matches pretty well.
                                I did learn a couple of things in my experimenting though. If you're going to do a small spot you will still need to do the whole panel and prep-work can make or break the paint job just as much as any other part of the procedure.
                                I might try again this summer and hopefully do a better job this time, I'm learning as I go.
                                Vic

                                ~ 1989 MGM LS Colony Park - Large Marge
                                ~ 1998 MGM LS - new DD
                                ~ 1991 MGM LS "The Scab"
                                ~ 1991 MGM GS "The Ice Car"

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