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...Increasingly I've come to believe that those engineers know what the hell they're talking about.
Happens occasionally, as long as the beancounters don't gut their efforts
Pete
Originally posted by gadget73
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That light oil stuff is for fuel economy. Ford can squeeze another 1/4 mpg for there epa rating so there cafe(corporate average fuel economy) dosen't go up. The newest motors are 0-20 or whatever, that's nonsense... As long as the motor makes it past the warranty period, it's not fords problem.
Not disputing that a 4.6 is tighter than an older motor but you should be fine running 10-30, 10-40 or even 20-50 if it's got high miles and noisy. Your viscosity should depend on what the weather is like in your area too.
That light oil stuff is for fuel economy. Ford can squeeze another 1/4 mpg for there epa rating so there cafe(corporate average fuel economy) dosen't go up. The newest motors are 0-20 or whatever, that's nonsense... As long as the motor makes it past the warranty period, it's not fords problem.
This was my understanding. Everything takes thin oil anymore.
Originally posted by gadget73
There is nothing more permanent than a temporary fix.
91 Mercury CP, Lopo 302, AOD, 3.08LSD. 3g upgrade, Moog wagon coils up front, cc819s in the back. KYB GR-2 police shocks. Energy suspension control arm bushings. Smog deleted.
93 F-150 XLT, 302, ZF 5-spd from 1-ton, 4wd.
Daily--07 Civic Coupe. Bone stock with 25k miles
Wife--14 Subaru Outback. 6-speed.
95 Subaru Legacy Wagon--red--STOLEN 1/6/13
Its not just economy, though there is no small amount of that. 0w20 is just dumb, but I've heard enough dire warnings about even 10w30 causing cam failures in a 4.6 that I wouldn't do it to any I owned. I wouldn't be surprised if a fair amount is fear and paranoia, but I'm mildly fearful of having to rebuild engines just because I'm too stubborn to use the proper oil. Being as I don't own one though, I don't care quite enough to research the matter to find out how much is bunk and how much is gospel.
86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley
91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry
1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal
Originally posted by phayzer5
I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers
Everything looks like voodoo if you don't understand how it works
Meh, I ran 15-40 in my 92 all the time. That way I could go 250 miles before having to add another quart instead of only 200 miles. Never noticed any adverse effects.
I've been running 10W-30 in the Tank since I got it. That's over 4 years ago and 80k. I burn oil. I do have a 93 which is prone to bad valve leaks.
If I ever take that motor out, we will see...
Well, I'm finished with the front end for the most part. I've put on 1100 miles on it since I bought it December 21st. The 'knock' hasn't gotten any worse..I'm almost certain it's a wrist pin. It's only present when the engine is allowed to freewheel, i.e between gear changes and if I hold it at 2000rpm in neutral/park. Not concerned. I plan to run it until it breaks.
I'm looking around at junkyard engines and they seem to run between $300-700 and higher.. I have a guy that _said_ he'd swap it for $600..How hard is an engine swap on these? I'm mechanically inclined but..That's way beyond what I have for tools/what my driveway allows. I'm not terribly concerned since I don't think it'll be a problem until summer but you never know.
Also, I changed the oil to 5w30 and added about quart of Lucas. Didn't make much of a difference, it is a bit quieter when it knocks but that's about it.
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