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whats a good header gasket?

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    whats a good header gasket?

    what is a good header gasket?? I'm putting on the stock mustang shorties over my flowtech unequal lengths because they are rusting out and have leaks in the collectors. Also do those locking header bolts by "Stage 8" really work?
    1989 Lincoln Town Car - "Anabelle" - Original block, .030 over with SpeedPro pistons, rods fitted with ARP hardware, FRPP +volume oil pump, GT-40 3bar heads, Crane 1.72 rockers, 89' Fox cam, 93' Cobra lower intake, Explorer upper and 65mm TB, 93' Lightning EGR spacer, K&N intake kit from a 4.0L Ranger, 19lb/hr injectors w/ 87 Mark VII ECM, cat/smog deletes, Big Brake conversion, 3.55 K-Code Trac-Lok/Disc brake rear axle, CVPI LCA's w/1" sway bar in rear, wagon front sway bar, BBK 2.5" off-road H-Pipe, Flowmaster super 40s, HPP wheels, 3G alternator w/LMR.com wiring kit, gear reduction starter conversion, Best 1/4 time: 16.0 @ 85mph.

    #2
    if you're using the stock HO shorties, regular old manifold gaskets from Fel Pro are fine. Don't need special bolts either, just use standard bolts and lock washers.

    If you're using aftermarkets, I've had good luck with my MrGasket ones. Not the stupid copper things, these are a black color gasket.
    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Originally posted by phayzer5
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

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      #3
      I used standard replacement manifold gaskets when I did my HO manifold swap. I got the header bolts from summit, can't remember the particulars on them though, I know they were summit brand, were 16 bucks, and work good.
      Pebbles-1968 Ford F250
      Pile of Junk! An Electronics Project Site (To get wet by)<---Clicky! NEW STUFF!!!!

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        #4
        The Mr Gasket "ultra-seal" line are the black ones. Ive used them many times with good luck. I'm using a fel-pro gasket on my 408 only because the Mr Gasket gaskets are a little small for the exhaust port dimensions

        RIP Jason P Harril, we'll miss ya bro

        '80 Town Coupé
        '84 Towncar - Teh Cobra TC, 408w powered
        '16 Ram 1500 CC Outdoorsman, Hemi/3.92/8sp 4x4

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          #5
          i have some Mr gasket ones, but they are white and have writing on them. I don't think they are the top of the line ones.
          1989 Lincoln Town Car - "Anabelle" - Original block, .030 over with SpeedPro pistons, rods fitted with ARP hardware, FRPP +volume oil pump, GT-40 3bar heads, Crane 1.72 rockers, 89' Fox cam, 93' Cobra lower intake, Explorer upper and 65mm TB, 93' Lightning EGR spacer, K&N intake kit from a 4.0L Ranger, 19lb/hr injectors w/ 87 Mark VII ECM, cat/smog deletes, Big Brake conversion, 3.55 K-Code Trac-Lok/Disc brake rear axle, CVPI LCA's w/1" sway bar in rear, wagon front sway bar, BBK 2.5" off-road H-Pipe, Flowmaster super 40s, HPP wheels, 3G alternator w/LMR.com wiring kit, gear reduction starter conversion, Best 1/4 time: 16.0 @ 85mph.

          Comment


            #6
            Mr Gasket Ultra-Seal for the win. Only header gaskets that actually sealed for me.

            The key is to install everything, torque 'em down, then let the engine IDLE up to temperature... then let it cool down ENTIRELY and torque 'em again. You'd be surprised how much more you can turn the bolts after they've heated up and cooled down. Do it once and you should be good.

            I just took a stock bolt and went to the hardware store and picked up some grade 8 allen head bolts. They worked really well. I want to say they're 3/8-16, but don't hold me to that.
            2011 Mustang GT Premium, MT82, Kona/Saddle, HIDs, 3.73s, 19s, hood/side stripes, UPR 1.5" springs with adjustable panhard bar, and UMI solid LCAs and relocation brackets.
            1992 Explorer Eddie Bauer, slight lift, 34s, and A/C...
            1979 Bronco Custom, 351M/C6/NP205, 4" lift, 35s, lots of fender trimming.

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              #7
              Originally posted by Freshmeat
              Mr Gasket Ultra-Seal for the win. Only header gaskets that actually sealed for me.

              The key is to install everything, torque 'em down, then let the engine IDLE up to temperature... then let it cool down ENTIRELY and torque 'em again. You'd be surprised how much more you can turn the bolts after they've heated up and cooled down. Do it once and you should be good.

              I just took a stock bolt and went to the hardware store and picked up some grade 8 allen head bolts. They worked really well. I want to say they're 3/8-16, but don't hold me to that.
              3/8-16 is right.

              Im using the Percy's Dead soft aluminum gaskets, work good, but are a bitch to install with my headers. Also cost $35 for the pair.
              http://secondhandracing.com/Home.aspx
              http://secondhandradio.com/

              R.I.P. Jason P Harrill 6-12-06

              http://www.grandmarq.net/vb/showthread.php?t=5634

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                #8
                If the mounting surfaces are still nice on the heads and stock HO headers then you tecnically don't need to run gaskets since they originally didn't come with gaskets.
                1990 Country Squire - weekend cruiser, next project
                1988 Crown Vic LTD Wagon - waiting in the wings

                GMN Box Panther History
                Box Panther Horsepower and Torque Ratings
                Box Panther Production Numbers

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                  #9
                  I'm using the white cheapo Mr.Gaskets. Work fine if the bolts stay in. Locktite or good locking header bolts are the key... (Like stock header bolts)
                  Builder/Owner of Badass Panther Wagons

                  Busy maintaining a fleet of Fords

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                    #10
                    the factory doesnt use gaskets on iron manifolds or on the stock shorty headers. Use a wire wheel on a drill or some sort of abrasive pad on a dril and clean the junk off both the head and header sealing surface, then bolt them up..... no gasket required.
                    2003 Town Car Signature - 3.27 RAR, Dual exhaust and J-mod - SOLD 9/2011
                    89 Crown Victoria LX HPP -- SOLD 9/2010
                    88 Grand Marquis LS - The Original -- Totaled 5/2006


                    I rebuild AOD/AODE/4R70W/4R75E transmissions....Check out my Facebook page: https://www.facebook.com/pages/North...48414635312478

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                      #11
                      Originally posted by 89LincolnTWNcar
                      my flowtech unequal lengths because they are rusting out and have leaks in the collectors
                      I was thinking of buying some Flowtech's, and installing them instead of a used set of Mustang shorties I already have . . . .

                      So, do I correctly interpret that you think that Flowtech's are CRAP?

                      Anybody else have bad experiences with Flowtech's? I'm wondering if they are consistently poor, or you just got a bad set . . . ?


                      HO with Explorer Cam, Electric Fan, Cop Sway Bars, Dual exhaust with no mufflers, 15x7" American Racing; 215/70R15's front, 255/60R15's rear, 3.55's with Trak-Lok.

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                        #12
                        well I got mine used off ebay, but still I don't see why they should have a hole in the collector at all.
                        1989 Lincoln Town Car - "Anabelle" - Original block, .030 over with SpeedPro pistons, rods fitted with ARP hardware, FRPP +volume oil pump, GT-40 3bar heads, Crane 1.72 rockers, 89' Fox cam, 93' Cobra lower intake, Explorer upper and 65mm TB, 93' Lightning EGR spacer, K&N intake kit from a 4.0L Ranger, 19lb/hr injectors w/ 87 Mark VII ECM, cat/smog deletes, Big Brake conversion, 3.55 K-Code Trac-Lok/Disc brake rear axle, CVPI LCA's w/1" sway bar in rear, wagon front sway bar, BBK 2.5" off-road H-Pipe, Flowmaster super 40s, HPP wheels, 3G alternator w/LMR.com wiring kit, gear reduction starter conversion, Best 1/4 time: 16.0 @ 85mph.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          They are the cheapest shorty headers you can get, and you get what you pay for. Now that I've seen a few sets installed, if I was to buy a new set of headers, they would be BBK. They angled the exhaust tubes in such a way that you can actually get a socket with a flex joint on almost all of the bolts. Probably almost 1/2 of the bolts on my Hedmans require a wrench. It might not seem like a huge point, but after you put in 16 of those tiny little bolts, you'll see why that becomes a selling point.
                          86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                          5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                          91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                          1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                          Originally posted by phayzer5
                          I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                          Comment


                            #14
                            yes very true. Putting on those flowtech headers was a major pain in the ass!! It took me 5 hours to swap them out for the stock shorties!
                            1989 Lincoln Town Car - "Anabelle" - Original block, .030 over with SpeedPro pistons, rods fitted with ARP hardware, FRPP +volume oil pump, GT-40 3bar heads, Crane 1.72 rockers, 89' Fox cam, 93' Cobra lower intake, Explorer upper and 65mm TB, 93' Lightning EGR spacer, K&N intake kit from a 4.0L Ranger, 19lb/hr injectors w/ 87 Mark VII ECM, cat/smog deletes, Big Brake conversion, 3.55 K-Code Trac-Lok/Disc brake rear axle, CVPI LCA's w/1" sway bar in rear, wagon front sway bar, BBK 2.5" off-road H-Pipe, Flowmaster super 40s, HPP wheels, 3G alternator w/LMR.com wiring kit, gear reduction starter conversion, Best 1/4 time: 16.0 @ 85mph.

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Originally posted by 89LincolnTWNcar
                              I'm putting on the stock mustang shorties over my flowtech unequal lengths because they are rusting out and have leaks in the collectors.
                              When are you going to do the work?

                              Do you expect to see any flow differences between the stock Mustang shorties and the Flowtech's?
                              Last edited by 89GrandMarquis; 12-14-2006, 09:19 AM.


                              HO with Explorer Cam, Electric Fan, Cop Sway Bars, Dual exhaust with no mufflers, 15x7" American Racing; 215/70R15's front, 255/60R15's rear, 3.55's with Trak-Lok.

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