to be highly pressurized? Every time I take my gas cap off of my '83 CV, it makes a loud "shoose" sound like opening a pepsi bottle that has been shaken. On a hot day, it happens with enough force to blow the cap out of my hand. It has been this way since I got it. My wife won't drive the CV because of it. BTW, I know it has been a while since I've posted, but I have been making progress (or possibly degressing) on the CV. I haven't replaced the steering column yet, but I did get my lights working again, except fo rthe reverse light. I got a chilton's shop manual, and apparently there is a reverse sensor in the column that needs to be replaced. I also need to get my window back on track. The motor works (at least it sounds and vibrates like it does), but the window doesn't move. Eventually, the window will just slide down on it's own, and I have to pull it back up and wedge something in to get it to stay. Man, I got a lot of things to do. Car still runs like a tank, so I can't just give up on her.
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I know on the EFI cars, there is a vent going from the tank to the engine, and there is a purge solenoid that periodically purges the pressure from the tank into the engine so the fumes can be burned.1989 Town Car Cartier: 3G Alt. Upgrade, Mark VIII Electric Fan, Police Interceptor Suspension, 40-series Flows, loaded. HO+ Conversion: E7 heads, Cobra 1.7RR's, Explorer intake, 65mm TB, FMS "E" Camshaft, 4-hole 19lb/hr injectors, A9P ECM, 76mm C&L MAF, BBK CAI. 338,000Km, stock bottom-end.
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I have a carb'd engine.
No other car I had has ever done this. I wasn't too worrried about it in the winter, but now that it is getting hot here in central Alabama, and the fact that my wife is refusing to go near the car, I guess she is starting to get to me, enough for me to be concerned.Comment
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There should be a purge line even on a carb car. 1983 should be EEC III CFI, which is a fuel injection system, but even the carb engines had it unless someone capped it off. The line runs on the passenger side, and you'll see it connect to a rubber line just forward of the front wheel. The rubber line goes into the charcoal canister under the battery. Coming off the canister, there is a vacuum line with a valve of some sort. I think the early cars had a vacuum operated valve, later ones have an electric solenoid. Make sure the line wasn't capped off or crushed or something.86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley
91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry
1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal
Originally posted by phayzer5
I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers
Everything looks like voodoo if you don't understand how it worksComment
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I want to say I ran with the purge solenoid disconnected on mine and it didnt do this, but my carbon canister may be leaking anyway so it cant build pressure.
edit: Yeah it is, I just remembered I broke it.Pete ::::>>> resident LED addict and CFI defector LED bulb replacements
'LTD HPP' 85 Vic (my rusty baby) '06 Honda Reflex 250cc 'Baileys' 91 Vic (faded cream puff) ClifFord 'ODB' 88 P72 (SOLD) '77 LTDII (RIP)
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85HPP's most noteworthy mods: CFI to SEFI conversion w/HO upperstuff headers & flowmasters P71 airbox Towncar seats LED dash light-show center console w/5 gauge package LED 3rd brake light 3G alternator mini starter washer/coolant bottle upgrade Towncar power trunk pull underhood fuse/relay box 16" HPP wheels - police swaybars w/poly rubbers - budget Alpine driven 10 speaker stereoComment
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Originally posted by converted1 View Post
For your window, I would suggest you look in CFI/Vacuum/Electrical forum and look for the thread, "Window does not go up but you hear the motor turning. It is probably the gear inside the motor. If your car’s window motor is anything like mine. It's anything like mine. The bracket is held in by four rivets, and depending on which window this is front or back, slide the motor and the bracket out together to service it. Then the bracket is held to the motor by three gold-like bolts, take them off and a gear is revealed, then there is a Phillips head screw. Which hold the gear in place. Now if I am correct, when you take that off, you shall see fragments of white plastic crap, mixed with the grease in the housing. These hold the metal gear from slipping in the larger plastic gear. When it was new, they would be seated in the white gear, and the metal gear will not slip.
They sell a gear kit, and it's fairly cheap. Plus if you bring in the old part, they take away from the price so the core charge is removed. Do not get rid of the cover, with the rubber for you will be reusing it when you get the new gears. It also comes with some grease to put it all back together. Then when you're done, put the motor back in and you'll probably have to use rivets or bolts and nuts, if you are able to get nuts and bolts in.
I am not a fuel expert, could it be that your fuel pump stays running long after you shut it off? I don't know, thought I'd throw something out there. Good luck with your car!!!Comment
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Thanks guys.
I was wondering what that can was. Is it under the battery, inside the bumper? There was a paper and aluminum corregated hose connecting it to the air filter housing, but that is the only line coming to or from it. I'm currently debating how to clean the engine bay in order to see everything that is missing, or nees to be repaired or replaced. Since my other car died on me, the CV is my only car (the wife took over the GM, I only get to drive it on Sundays to church and to fill it up
). I don't want water to damage some part it don't know of and cause the CV to stop running. After All I've been through, I don't want to be the reason the car stopped working! Next weekend, I am going to do a basic tune up.
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