Okay Dokie

[1987cp]

You can probably fit your impact on that bolt once the crank pulley is off. Though if it's being as stubborn as you say, I'd heat it a little and soak it some more and try with the ratchet again.

The huge aluminum piece the bottom of the alternator mounts to is the power steering pump bracket; yeah, that's gotta come off.

[DarkKnight]

Ok, so best bet is dosconect alt. then just start taking nuts and bolts off. : Nods Allrighty mang

[1987cp]

yup!

[DarkKnight]

Rather Ill at myself and them...

Well I FINALY got the water pump off! woot.

But i finaly also looked at my new water pump and see the words, referbished on them, right after i took note that i saw no new bolts

Im mad at myself for not seeing this earlier. and mad at them as well, for even selling auto. a refurbished water pump...

Anyways.. can i use this mang's? It looks exactly the same imo as mine. but i dunno

If i can use it i just will, if i cant then im going to half to find some way of taking it back and getting a actual new one..

The bolts actually dont look all to bad. that one still hase=nt poped out but i got it untreaded :P, and ima hit it with a hammer in a min to get it all the way out.

[DarkKnight]

I wound up just moving the power stering and alt brackets.

[1987cp]

Well I FINALY got the water pump off! woot.

But i finaly also looked at my new water pump and see the words, referbished on them, right after i took note that i saw no new bolts

Im mad at myself for not seeing this earlier. and mad at them as well, for even selling auto. a refurbished water pump...

Anyways.. can i use this mang's? It looks exactly the same imo as mine. but i dunno

If i can use it i just will, if i cant then im going to half to find some way of taking it back and getting a actual new one..

The bolts actually dont look all to bad. that one still hase=nt poped out but i got it untreaded :P, and ima hit it with a hammer in a min to get it all the way out.

Nothing wrong with refurbished water pumps. The main parts to go bad are the bearings and seals, and those are replaced when they're rebuilt. It's just that the body, shaft, and sometimes the impeller have been used before, but those parts won't be reused if they're not in good condition. FYI, I once got a new water pump where the back was a little warped and you could see gaps next to the gasket, so I pulled the back off and flattened it a little and reinstalled it with a little RTV to make sure the gasket sealed. New bolts aren't normally provided; if one breaks, you may be able to get a replacement from Ford, or check with our pal Lincolnmania.

The heavy-duty iron unit is what I've always had on my '87 engine; it interchanges with your aluminum one except for the heater hose outlet (the bigger of the two small ones on your old one) and one of the water pump bolts being either shorter or longer. There's also an extra bolt hole in the middle that you can use if there's a place for it in your front cover; but it'll be fine without it. I'm pretty sure the perimeter bolt that's different isn't one of the funny studs that mount something else to the top of it, but double-check to make sure. If I'm right, you can just grab a correct-length new Grade 5 bolt from the hardware store and use that.

[DarkKnight]

I fill so good.



Take a look at that bolt, and see if it dont look familure





Now ounce i got that, that cover was a little pita. i tell you what. not hard to get the bolts of mind you. just eh, there kinda hard to find!





One last nut annnnd




there is a ton of slack on the drivers side of the chaina s well, along with that i see what apear to be cracks in the gears >_>??? biguns and littuns.

So im guessing that indeed it was time for a new chain aye?

The Harmonic balncer the ruber part, was missing chunks out of it , So agine im think that was wise to go Ahead and get a new one


87cp, hehe You sure are helpfull brother I really do aprechate it , goes for all you mangs to that helped me hehe..


To be honest, this was really realy fun to me. I might be crazy but eh. Im dead dog serious. very fun.
( although i got frustrated finding a few tools. but then i walked off sat and thought hehehehe.)

Fill so good right now.


Can i just pass on the extra bolt mang? hehehehe.

[DarkKnight]

O, forgot to ask, is there a sp way to take the timing chain off? And put the new one on? Ill go look in my book in a sec. And whats that der round ring looking thing?

O, and i cant see all of the bottom of the oil pan, is that alright? ( Thinking about that new oil pan gasket thingy.

:-? And now where is this bloody t stat ?

[gadget73]

I would turn the engine so that the timing marks line up before removing it. What I did with mine was to thread the crank bolt back in and use it with a breaker bar to turn the engine till the dots lined up. Once thats done, you might have to stick something in the cam gear so the engine won't turn when you thread the bolt back out.

Just remove the bolt on the cam, and wiggle the gear off. If it doesn't want to come, tap it with a rubber mallet and it should come free. Lower gear just slides right off the crankshaft.

When you put the chain on, make sure the dots point at one another. Crank gear dot points straight up, cam dot goes straight down. Use loctite on the cam bolt to make sure it doesn't fall out.

[DarkKnight]

Thanks Gadget mang, very usefull info I was just thinking i need more loctite hehee. What im trying to figure out is what dot's you mang's are speaking of and what they line up with. Sept each other. And. would that make the timing go back to 10btc?

[mrltd]

Why doesn't anyone ever bother cleaning the engine compartment first? Makes for a much nicer experience...

[1987cp]

Thanks Gadget mang, very usefull info I was just thinking i need more loctite hehee. What im trying to figure out is what dot's you mang's are speaking of and what they line up with. Sept each other. And. would that make the timing go back to 10btc?

I don't have a good picture handy, but there's a little indentation on each sprocket. They'll be easier to see on the new parts. The one on the crank sprocket is right next to the slot on the inside (crank keyway), so it's easy to find.

This stuff has nothing to do with your ignition timing; that's set at the distributor.

Glad you're having fun, mang!

- Edit -

This pic is of a timing set for a Chevy LS1, but it clearly shows the "dot" on the cam sprocket we're talking about. Just imagine an identical dot where the "0" is on the crank sprocket (indicated by the left-hand pointer), and you're in business.

[1987cp]

Why doesn't anyone ever bother cleaning the engine compartment first? Makes for a much nicer experience...

Probably because we're all a bunch of lazy bastards and don't start thinking about cleaning junk until it's taken apart. :p

[1987cp]

Here's a pic of a Ford timing set. This is an adjustable set (note the extra keyways on the crank sprocket), but you can see the keyway pointing up.

[gadget73]

Lining the dots up puts the camshaft in time with the crankshaft. If the dots don't line up, the valves won't open at the right time and it'll either run bad, or not at all. You might need to re-adjust the ignition timing once the chain is replaced since it won't have all that slop in it.