Okay Dokie

[gadget73]

i think the fix for carbon problems on the cfi cars was to get rid of that cooler thing. The egr valve bolts right to the manifold instead of to that aluminum doodad with the water line hookups. The cooler line would end up getting replaced with 1/4" rubber fuel hose from the fitting on the back of the intake to that pipe thing it comes from. Or just plug the coolant line off, whichever is easier for you.

[DarkKnight]

O! would it actualy be better if i re installed the umm. water line to the EGR?

[DarkKnight]

And if it where messed up like i have done. It would indeed cause problems hehe. Ok. It's going to get fixed then!

[gadget73]

you can paint it


basically it lets some exhaust into the intake for emissions control. it lowers the combustion temperature to reduce NOx emissions.

I wouldn't go replacing sensors unless they're actually bad. See what you get for codes first before throwing parts at it.

See if you can borrow a timing light somewhere too. Maybe Autozone has one on their too loaner program? Heck you could just go there and set the timing in the parking lot.

[DarkKnight]

hehe, ok ill go in order.
I asked about that gasket cause back when i done the EGR sensor. I well was under the empression that alot of carbon builds up behind the vent thing whatever it is.. on the egr. SO i scraped. What i thought was carbon hehe. but more then likely was the actualy gasket. So prety much there is no gasket to even speak of exsept for eh.pices still glued on it ). Ima pray that that is what is wrong. Ima get a new gasket and a new sensor whille im at it. From napa this time... Unless you mang's tell me Adanvce/O'riley ones are good to go.

Ok, my timing light is actually busted mang . I don't have a 100 bucks or so to spare atm to buy a new one either. ( I actually think there like 40$. ) But i did check it before ( Like years ago. ) And it did move then hehe. But aye, :P i did mark 10 btdc on the balancer before i even installed it :P

The way i been pulling codes is from a code reader. I think thats right. or scanner. The only place i could find one was agine at a auto zone UGHA. so im wondering if it it's self might be screwed up..

So, it is safe to say i need a new gasket and prob a new sensor for the EGR..

Since ima work on this con founded egr. Could anyone actually tell me what it is? Or what it does? beside annoy me.
And can i paint it!

[gadget73]

there's a gasket, but it wouldn't make it leak coolant. It could cause a vacuum leak which might be giving you problems.

shouldn't matter if the car was made in US or Canada, the parts are the same.


Check something for me. When you set your timing with the spout unplugged, see if the mark on the balancer seems to move when you plug it back in. Also, you've got 10 btdc marked on the balancer, right?

the ecm can go bad. its not real common, but it happens. I think Phayzer had one die in his cfi car, and it ran all messed up. Could be related to not being able to get codes, but there are a few things that can cause that. How are you checking codes anyway? Can you get any codes at all?

[DarkKnight]

Thought

I got to thinking today.

And now i have a question, on the EGR the part that has fin type holes. Is there a gasket in there? And if so if i scraped it waay back when could that have caused the poping?

[DarkKnight]

hehe thanks mang's. umm I FOUND the water leak.. It's that pesky EGR water line that been caped off for or 3 years now. Im guessing with the new water pump it made to much pressure for it. hehe.. sooo i Half to figure out a way to get my big arse hands in there. And how to actually take the old fitting off...

Indeed hehe, i know how to set timing on a ford. heres the thing. when i disconect the umm... Spout connector.. i think thats right.. anyways. it dosent do anything good or bad to the engine. ( It dosent increase rpm nor make them go down. )

I went and advanced my timing agine. And now guess what. I dont have that perfect idle anymore. ( Im thininking i had it before due to my cpu/brain/whatever was restarted.)

Was in the think tank earlier ( Chat room :P ) And i had some cool ideas come across me.
New gaskets for the CFI and EGR for one. A new fuel filter. Umm.check the grounds for the ECM. I think thats right. ( Which im thinking that might actualy be bad? do they even go bad? and would that be the reason why i couldn't never do a KOER test?)


You know mang's I really loved doing that work to the engine.. But whats sad is, now seeing how this poping is back i really am deciding to get rid of her. I dunno ill half to sleep on that.just had so many plans to do with her. and it doesn't seem that i will ever be able to do them.. :'(
Other things that where thought of where new EGR and TPS sensor. those two parts add up rather quickly though..

I remember last time i got a EGR or TPS was from vato zone. and Feller asked me if my car was made in canada or US and i said US. not knowing. And i am really thinking that had some part into it.

Anyways. im rambling now hehe.

Thanks agine mang's for all the help !!!!!1111!!!!one!!!111

[gadget73]

Cool. See, its really not so horrible now that you've done it. Its harder to explain than to actually do it most of the time.

[Nathan in MI]

Yeah, definitely check the timing. If your timing light isn't working, get another one or borrow one from someone. Get it set right (you do know the correct procedure for setting the timing as far as disconnecting the spout connector, right?) and I bet your problems will be solved.

Oh, and congrats on getting it back together, I knew you could do it!

[1987cp]

Yep, only two bolts going through the p/s bracket, since there are only two holes in the head that those holes line up with. One mounts the bottom of the alternator, and the other is somewhat below it.

My first guess for popping would also be incorrect ignition timing. Especially if you managed to get it way off like when I installed one of mine 180 degrees off! (engine wouldn't run like that, though)

For the water leak: I don't remember, but did you get a new radiator cap? I once had one start barfing, so I hunted around for an 18psi cap and called it good. Latest funky thing I noticed were radiator caps with built-in thermometers so you know when the engine's cool .... kind of a funny concept there. :p

What's the Roto Button?

[DarkKnight]

Well, i retarded it back. My demn light still dosent want to work. but anyways.

That poping/hicuping/backfire is back agine. Im really beginning to think it has alot to do with either A the Roto Button/B Exhaust. Or C the Dist.

To boot i sprung a leak somewhere. gonna wait for the steam to calm down a grunt. Which should be right now to open the hood and peeak around ).

D.K.

: Edit : I see no signs of water leak. all my hoses are still on. And if it where leaking at the water pump from beneath im sure it woldnt get that much on the exhaust manifold. I did spill alot of oil on here earler. im sure thats what it was.

Any ideas mang? Best way i can explaine it is two way's. One it builds up pressure and then it relives it's self with a hickup/pop. The other way i can explaine it is it sounds like it's wanting to fire then it finnaly does.

Anyways. Maybey with all you great minds we can fig it out hehe. Thanks mang's

D.K.

( Although im really really tired of just trowing money at it. )

: End Edit :

[DarkKnight]

set it to .50 hehehe.

SHE RUNS hehe. im so proude . In all you mang's and Myself. Big Thanks agine to EVERYONE!.

Let's seee, well when i turned her over i notice my steering being a little screwy so i checked the ps fluid, And sure nuff it was demn near empty. Im hoping this was from being on it's side for eh a weak just about.
Which leads me to a question..

On the PS mounting thing. ( Not sure what it's called.. ) Any ways Belove the starter bolt. there are three places for other bolts. Well the bottom one and the top one are both in. But i couldn't get the middle one in Does that absolutley half to be in there? Or is it alright for it not to be in?

::: Thinks ::: Ah yes. It starts realt realy well now and it stays on at idle woo hoo. ( Even cold! )
However you can tell 100% that i have the timing advanced waaay to far.

So tomarow i will be setting the timing back. Hopefully with my light if it will work. If not i will at least retard it by ear. Due to i advanced it by ear...



I so happy. And tired.. )

[1987cp]

I think about .045" or so is factory spec, but I normally run 'em at 0.050" just to get the spark a little hotter.

.048", I think

[Mercmarquis]

Cool mang, hope all goes well.