Confused about Different EGR Valves

[86GmLsCoupe]

Awhile back, the car was having all sorts of idling and stalling issues. I ended up having to replace a few different parts on the car. I ordered a new EGR valve from Teamford and at that time I just saw one EGR listed. The car is still throwing an EGR code and I was looking into the EVR online and noticed that Teamford now shows 2 different EGR valves based on part numbers. One is for valves marked E6AE-C2A,C4A, D4A and the other is for valves marked E7AE-A2A. So I got curious and checked what I had on the car, and what I replaced it with. The original one the car's part number started E6- and the replacement is E7-. Then I checked on RoackAuto and they list one EGR vale Part # CX1230A E6AE-9F483C2A, C4A, D4A{#E7PZ9H473H}. Now when I ordered the Teamford part, I searched using the number from the Motocraft catalog to make sure I got the right part (CX1230A). So now I see theres two, and it seems like I have the wrong one, and I still have codes. Also I noticed the two valves looked slightly different. I'm guessing there is a difference since they list two, but will the E7 one work? Is this just and updated part? I'm sort of annoyed since I used the right Motorcraft # CX1230A which should have got me the E6 and now I have the E7. I really don't want to have to buy another EGR for a stupid mistake.

[1987cp]

Have you inspected the new EGR valve assembly to make sure it's the same? Also, what parts were actually changed? (I would assume everything between the wiring harness and the vacuum tube and the EGR spacer, but I could be wrong because I've never bought one.)

[85crownHPP]

86 was the 1st year for SEFI and had a buch of one yeard stuff... I wouldnt think it would make a difference though. As far as I know, both should work the same.
The EVP sensor could be bad, or the EGR supply could be clogged

[86VickyLX]

Awhile back, the car was having all sorts of idling and stalling issues. I ended up having to replace a few different parts on the car. I ordered a new EGR valve from Teamford and at that time I just saw one EGR listed. The car is still throwing an EGR code and I was looking into the EVR online and noticed that Teamford now shows 2 different EGR valves based on part numbers. One is for valves marked E6AE-C2A,C4A, D4A and the other is for valves marked E7AE-A2A. So I got curious and checked what I had on the car, and what I replaced it with. The original one the car's part number started E6- and the replacement is E7-. Then I checked on RoackAuto and they list one EGR vale Part # CX1230A E6AE-9F483C2A, C4A, D4A{#E7PZ9H473H}. Now when I ordered the Teamford part, I searched using the number from the Motocraft catalog to make sure I got the right part (CX1230A). So now I see theres two, and it seems like I have the wrong one, and I still have codes. Also I noticed the two valves looked slightly different. I'm guessing there is a difference since they list two, but will the E7 one work? Is this just and updated part? I'm sort of annoyed since I used the right Motorcraft # CX1230A which should have got me the E6 and now I have the E7. I really don't want to have to buy another EGR for a stupid mistake.

could be a stored code. did you try clearing the codes?

[1987cp]

86 was the 1st year for SEFI and had a buch of one yeard stuff... I wouldnt think it would make a difference though. As far as I know, both should work the same.
The EVP sensor could be bad, or the EGR supply could be clogged

Right, no vacuum to EGR valve = no EGR function.

[85crownHPP]

yeah, could be a bad EGR solenoid, cracked vacuum line... what is the exact code?

[gadget73]

wait, are you replacing the EGR valve on the side of the intake, or the EVR, aka the egr solenoid on the fender? I'm not actually sure either one matters. My original had an E5 part number, the replacement came in a box with an E6 number, but the part inside has E5 on it. The caps are a different color, but thats it. The EGR valves on the side of the intake all seem to be pretty much the same too, so not sure what difference that would make.

[86GmLsCoupe]

Well, I guess to start I'll give you a bit of background. The codes were all cleared with the scanner after replacing the IAC, EGR, and EGR position sensor. All the codes are now gone except for one. Dont have the code on hand, but it was something like EGR closed or out of range. The vacuum lines going to it are fine and I was thinking the next step would be to look into the EGR vacuum regulator (EVR). When I was doing this, I saw that teamford now has two seperately tagged EGR's available for my car. When I got the replacement I did notice the pintle valve/cone was different shaped than my old one. The new one has two longer pointed cones where the old one has shorter ones with the flat spots at the tips. I paid this no mind when I saw it and the part went on fine. But I'm still having problems. My big issue is to find out where the E7 tagged EGR will work in place of my original E6 tagged one. There must be some difference or why make two? If it's fine, or just a part update then I'll continue to look into the other possible causes (EVR) for the code. I'm just annoyed because I ordered the part using the # I got from the Motorcraft catalog using my VIN, which would have gotten me an E6. If it's not going to work then I have to get the correct EGR and spend more on another EGR.

[gadget73]

Have you stuck a volt meter on the EGR position sensor to see what it says? The actual design of the valve isn't real important, its what that sensor has to say about it. Chart comparing position to voltage is here:

http://fordfuelinjection.com/index.php?p=35

[86GmLsCoupe]

Thanks Gadget, I've used the fordfuelinjection site a lot for info. I haven't tested the position sensor figuring it's a brand new Motorcraft. Of course, it can always be defective. I'm just still clueless about the 2 different EGR's though. It's one of those dumb things that will bug me.