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    #16
    dont forget the sealed hub/bearings! oooOOoOoOOOoooo...
    Pete ::::>>> resident LED addict and CFI defector LED bulb replacements
    'LTD HPP' 85 Vic (my rusty baby) '06 Honda Reflex 250cc 'Baileys' 91 Vic (faded cream puff) ClifFord 'ODB' 88 P72 (SOLD) '77 LTDII (RIP)
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    85HPP's most noteworthy mods: CFI to SEFI conversion w/HO upperstuff headers & flowmasters P71 airbox Towncar seats LED dash light-show center console w/5 gauge package LED 3rd brake light 3G alternator mini starter washer/coolant bottle upgrade Towncar power trunk pull underhood fuse/relay box 16" HPP wheels - police swaybars w/poly rubbers - budget Alpine driven 10 speaker stereo

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      #17
      If the upper arms are the same as the newer ones, they aren't aluminum. The 98-02's are cast iron....
      Builder/Owner of Badass Panther Wagons

      Busy maintaining a fleet of Fords

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        #18
        I'd say just swapping the brakes is easier because you don't have to hassle with lifting an entire rear end. It's about the same amount of work, but one doesn't involve moving 300lb pieces of metal. The advantage to swapping the entire rear end is you can do a gear swap, install posi, replace all your bearings and seals. and do the pads and rotors with out ever having to take your car off the road.

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          #19
          Rear discs either involve a total rear swap, or you have to get into the rear to pull the axles. Whichever is less scary to you is probably the easiest to do. Probably all things considered, its roughly equal. Personally I'm with Blaze on the rebuild the existing one plan. After enough miles, those rear bearings and seals get worn out too.
          86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
          5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

          91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

          1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

          Originally posted by phayzer5
          I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

          Everything looks like voodoo if you don't understand how it works

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            #20
            More often than not, the right axle is shot.
            Builder/Owner of Badass Panther Wagons

            Busy maintaining a fleet of Fords

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              #21
              Originally posted by mrltd
              the 92-95 fronts are the same size as the stock box ones. Not worth the effort/money
              The front brakes were lightly redesigned for the 1992 (sharing the same calipers, though), 1993/1994 and again for 1995 model year.

              What size are the box front rotors?


              Front:
              1990 Town Car: single piston calipers clamping 11.0" vented rotors (is this the same as the boxes?)

              92-94: single piston calipers clamping 11.1" vented rotors
              95-97: single piston calipers clamping 11.3" vented rotors
              98-02: dual piston calipers clamping 12.4" vented rotors



              Oh, and 95-02 have the same UCA/LCAs up front
              http://www.p71interceptor.com/suspen...larms9502.html
              They are not aluminum - that is 03+
              Last edited by drock96marquis; 02-10-2007, 04:11 AM.
              -My Homepage, Panther info & FAQs-
              My Mint 96' Mercury Grand Marquis LSE -
              Modifications
              Click My Merc for more Pics!

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                #22
                The boxes used ~11" fronts, single piston.
                Builder/Owner of Badass Panther Wagons

                Busy maintaining a fleet of Fords

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                  #23
                  Thank you.
                  -My Homepage, Panther info & FAQs-
                  My Mint 96' Mercury Grand Marquis LSE -
                  Modifications
                  Click My Merc for more Pics!

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                    #24
                    I don't suppose the '92-up front brakes use separate hubs and rotors? I really hate having to pull the hubs whenever I do my brakes.
                    2012 Mazda5 Touring | Finally working on the LTD again!

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                      #25
                      No, we don't have to pull our hubs.
                      They are sealed/lubed-for life as well.



                      If the rotors are original, we only have to drill out the rivets quick
                      -My Homepage, Panther info & FAQs-
                      My Mint 96' Mercury Grand Marquis LSE -
                      Modifications
                      Click My Merc for more Pics!

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                        #26
                        "hat" rotors are nice. Have to be careful about those bearings though, they are different year to year. 1996 bearings do not work when used with 1998 brake parts. Found that out trying to save money and time. Store was out of stock on the 98 part, so figured we'd try a 96 bearing since its the same spindle. Offset is about 1/8" different, and the rotor sits right against the spindle. Oh well, live and learn.
                        86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                        5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                        91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                        1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                        Originally posted by phayzer5
                        I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                        Everything looks like voodoo if you don't understand how it works

                        Comment

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