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    #1

    rubber eating chemical?

    Are there any chemicals that will eat away rubber, but not harm metal? Since I'm unable to burn out the suspension bushings due to my location, I'm looking for other options.
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    #2
    power steering fluid, look what it does to the swaybar bushings.....

    Using a drill bit, drill into the rubber, the reverse around the inside of the shell. That will usually tear it up so you can get the removal started
    Builder/Owner of Badass Panther Wagons

    Busy maintaining a fleet of Fords

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      #3
      why cant you burn them??? apartment rules? lol... actually you may be able to heat them up enough without making them burn to just push them out... one of mine started bubbling and had halfway popped itself out before it caught big flame...
      Pete ::::>>> resident LED addict and CFI defector LED bulb replacements
      'LTD HPP' 85 Vic (my rusty baby) '06 Honda Reflex 250cc 'Baileys' 91 Vic (faded cream puff) ClifFord 'ODB' 88 P72 (SOLD) '77 LTDII (RIP)
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      85HPP's most noteworthy mods: CFI to SEFI conversion w/HO upperstuff headers & flowmasters P71 airbox Towncar seats LED dash light-show center console w/5 gauge package LED 3rd brake light 3G alternator mini starter washer/coolant bottle upgrade Towncar power trunk pull underhood fuse/relay box 16" HPP wheels - police swaybars w/poly rubbers - budget Alpine driven 10 speaker stereo

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        #4
        drill, maybe with a hole saw. to cut through from each side. Should get a pretty good amount of the bushing seperated from the shell before it bottoms out.
        86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
        5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

        91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

        1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

        Originally posted by phayzer5
        I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

        Everything looks like voodoo if you don't understand how it works

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          #5
          I thought WD-40 ate up rubber a bit, that might help.
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          1986 Grand Marquis LS 2 Door
          Ext: Medium Shadow Blue Metallic, Int: Midnight Blue, 3.08 open, 235/70/15 Goodyear Aquatread III, Rebuilt AOD w/ Transgo Shift Kit, 3G upgrade from 95 5.0 Mustang, Walker Dual Exhaust w/ H pipe, Viper 5900ST alarm, De-smogged, Rear Civ. Sway Bar, and more.

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            #6
            You don't have a bench vice around? Its a bitch but they'll come eventually.
            Chris - A 20th Century Man \m/ ^.^ \m/

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              #7
              Originally posted by 86GmLsCoupe View Post
              I thought WD-40 ate up rubber a bit, that might help.
              It does, I used it on my control arm bushings, combined with a 4" hunting knife, worked good.

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                #8
                Acetone will eat through plastic, and I think it might break down the rubber as well.

                Maybe acid would work too; just have to be careful.
                **1976 Ford F-150 4WD: 360, 4 spd, 3.50s, factory A/C, 4" lift, Bilsteins, US Indy Mags, 35s Cruiser​
                **2004 F-150 XLT 4WD RCLB: 4.6/ 4R70, 3.55, 90K Daily Driver​
                **2012 Ford Mustang Boss 302: 5.0/ 6 spd/ 3.73s, 20K Cruiser
                **2012 Harley Davidson Wide Glide (FXDWG):103/ Cobra Speedsters/ Cosmetics, 9K Poseur HD Rider

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                  #9
                  Originally posted by MeLikeyStripperChicks View Post
                  It does, I used it on my control arm bushings, combined with a 4" hunting knife, worked good.
                  I thought so, I'm pretty sure I heard from you and it worked well for me.
                  sigpic
                  1986 Grand Marquis LS 2 Door
                  Ext: Medium Shadow Blue Metallic, Int: Midnight Blue, 3.08 open, 235/70/15 Goodyear Aquatread III, Rebuilt AOD w/ Transgo Shift Kit, 3G upgrade from 95 5.0 Mustang, Walker Dual Exhaust w/ H pipe, Viper 5900ST alarm, De-smogged, Rear Civ. Sway Bar, and more.

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                    #10
                    Originally posted by P72Ford View Post
                    Acetone will eat through plastic, and I think it might break down the rubber as well.

                    Maybe acid would work too; just have to be careful.
                    acid would eat the metal before the rubber.

                    we have used a drill method like gadget mentioned. swiss cheese the bushing and dig the chunks out with a screwdriver.
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                    http://www.grandmarq.net/vb/showthread.php?t=5634

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                      #11
                      Originally posted by DuceAnAHalf View Post
                      acid would eat the metal before the rubber.
                      Acid has to be fairly concentrated to eat away at metal though (or the metal has to be exposed for a long duration of time, which may be the case in this instance). I wouldn't try anything that corrosive.

                      Acid would be my last choice, as there are other remedies that would probably be much safer and effective.
                      **1976 Ford F-150 4WD: 360, 4 spd, 3.50s, factory A/C, 4" lift, Bilsteins, US Indy Mags, 35s Cruiser​
                      **2004 F-150 XLT 4WD RCLB: 4.6/ 4R70, 3.55, 90K Daily Driver​
                      **2012 Ford Mustang Boss 302: 5.0/ 6 spd/ 3.73s, 20K Cruiser
                      **2012 Harley Davidson Wide Glide (FXDWG):103/ Cobra Speedsters/ Cosmetics, 9K Poseur HD Rider

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                        #12
                        Originally posted by P72Ford View Post
                        Acid has to be fairly concentrated to eat away at metal though (or the metal has to be exposed for a long duration of time, which may be the case in this instance). I wouldn't try anything that corrosive.

                        Acid would be my last choice, as there are other remedies that would probably be much safer and effective.
                        well you wear rubber gloves to protect you while your working with acid, so i would not even bother with it. you would be better off with a solvent like MEK
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                        R.I.P. Jason P Harrill 6-12-06

                        http://www.grandmarq.net/vb/showthread.php?t=5634

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                          #13
                          ky eats rubber

                          1986 lincoln towncar signature series. 5.0 HO with thumper performance ported e7 heads, 1.7 roller rockers, warm air intake, 65mm throttle body, 1/2" intake spacer, ported intakes, 3.73 rear with trac lock, 98-02 front brake conversion, 92-97 rear disc conversion, 1" rear swaybar, 1 3/16" front swaybar, 16" wheels and tires, loud ass stereo system, badass cb, best time to date 15.94 at 87 mph. lots of mods in the works 221.8 rwhp 278 rwt
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                          1987 TriBurner and 1986 Alaska stokers keeping me warm. (and some pesky oil heat)

                          please be patient, rebuilding an empire!

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                            #14
                            Nitric acid eats rubber like no one's business, but I think it will eat the steel as well. I'll ask my chemistry professor.
                            1990 Country Squire - under restoration
                            1988 Crown Vic LTD Wagon - daily beater

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                              #15
                              Originally posted by Tiggie View Post
                              Nitric acid eats rubber like no one's business, but I think it will eat the steel as well. I'll ask my chemistry professor.
                              just make sure there is no glycerin around.

                              after wards you can add the nitric acid to all sorts of stuff to make explosives
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                              R.I.P. Jason P Harrill 6-12-06

                              http://www.grandmarq.net/vb/showthread.php?t=5634

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