My driver side door is being seperated by rust...

[84GrandMarquis]

The Passenger side door isn't doing much better either. I assume all of this due to the doors not latching perfectly, so I assume water gets in and further eats away at the door. Anyway, the problem is that the drivers door is splitting at the bottom, I'm not exactly sure hot to describe it, but it looks like it's slowly being sliced up the door, I guess my question is, since I know very little about body work, what can be done, aside from costly body work, or replacing the door, which seem like my only two options.

[1987cp]

Pretty sure it has nothing to do with how the door latches. There are a few ways for water to get inside the door to rust them from the inside out, such as through dew wipes that are worn, cracked, or shrunk. '81-up sideview mirrors with ill-sealing gaskets can't help, either. Or years of exposure to salt spray can deteriorate things from the outside in, and it's difficult to get that bit cleaned properly by cleaning methods employed by typical car owners (i.e. hosing down only the outside of the door and neglecting the jamb area altogether).

[BerniniCaCO3]

wow! I'm curious what conclusions you arrive at also... I don't want this to happen to my doors! :-/
I'm thinking... aren't there drain holes to prevent exactly this? So that when water does get inside the door it just drips out?
Could they be clogged, the water (possibly entering from the dew wipes) is pooling right there?

As for fixes... Errgh. I'm not a body man, but I can't think of anything easy. I'd be inclined to wire brush the rust off, then get some cheap spray paint just to mask it and make it esthetically liveable until such time, a few years from now, you get a new car.
Or like you say: just replace them with junkyard doors.

To fix that properly, I foresee stripping the paint off, cutting out the rust, and welding in fresh sheet metal, grind/clean/body filler then repaint the whole door inside and out, since the heat of the rewelding even on the inside will absolutely blister the paint on the outside of the door immediately opposite.
Not worth the $$$, I don't even want to know :-D

[87gtVIC]

You can try just preserving it a few more years by using a wire wheel on an air grinder with a compressor (wearing safety glasses and a mask) and just go to town on the area as much as you can. get as much clean metal as possible. Rip the door panel off and take a wire brush and have at it on the inside as well. Clean off everything very well then paint over the rust (outside of door and inside of door) with a rust converter like rust fix by duplicolor or rust reformer spray by rustoleum to treat the metal that is there. Let that dry for 48 hours then knock it all down with 80 grit and then I would purchase some long hair fiberglass filler and pack the hole on the door with it from the outside. May take a couple of applications of that to cover everything. Then knock that stuff down with 36 then 80 and smooth everything out with a normal body filler. Knock that down with 80, 100, 150 then 220 then back mask the doors and apply a filler primer to conceal pin holes. Wet sand that out a day later with a gray scuffing pad or 400 then 600 grit and sand up the side the door a bit as well. Back mask the area again and apply primer sealer. Let dry wet sand out again the back mask and apply paint the clear.

Shit. I would do it for you over a weekend if you bring everything needed. I have a compressor and am confident in at least preserving the door (making it look a lot better for at least a year or two) for you. But basically the right way would be to cut out the infected metal..either make a custom patch or cut out a patch from another door and burn that in...or replace the door.

This mostly comes from clogged door drains and/or beat weatherstripping (around window) and beat dew wipes..all of which replacement are available with minor modifications.

The body to door weather stripping seals right below the door panel, not even close to the bad area.

[1987cp]

My grand plan for saving doors that are rusting from the bottom is to media-blast the affected area and then take steps to preserve it. Of course, I'll have a much easier time doing that if/when I get around to getting a compressor of sufficient size. I've considered getting a soda blast system, but I haven't yet researched soda-blasting's ability to remove rust.

[BBMK790]

You can try just preserving it a few more years by using a wire wheel on an air grinder with a compressor (wearing safety glasses and a mask) and just go to town on the area as much as you can. get as much clean metal as possible. Rip the door panel off and take a wire brush and have at it on the inside as well. Clean off everything very well then paint over the rust (outside of door and inside of door) with a rust converter like rust fix by duplicolor or rust reformer spray by rustoleum to treat the metal that is there. Let that dry for 48 hours then knock it all down with 80 grit and then I would purchase some long hair fiberglass filler and pack the hole on the door with it from the outside. May take a couple of applications of that to cover everything. Then knock that stuff down with 36 then 80 and smooth everything out with a normal body filler. Knock that down with 80, 100, 150 then 220 then back mask the doors and apply a filler primer to conceal pin holes. Wet sand that out a day later with a gray scuffing pad or 400 then 600 grit and sand up the side the door a bit as well. Back mask the area again and apply primer sealer. Let dry wet sand out again the back mask and apply paint the clear.

Shit. I would do it for you over a weekend if you bring everything needed. I have a compressor and am confident in at least preserving the door (making it look a lot better for at least a year or two) for you. But basically the right way would be to cut out the infected metal..either make a custom patch or cut out a patch from another door and burn that in...or replace the door.

This mostly comes from clogged door drains and/or beat weatherstripping (around window) and beat dew wipes..all of which replacement are available with minor modifications.

The body to door weather stripping seals right below the door panel, not even close to the bad area.

At a minimum this should be applied.

[84GrandMarquis]

You can try just preserving it a few more years by using a wire wheel on an air grinder with a compressor (wearing safety glasses and a mask) and just go to town on the area as much as you can. get as much clean metal as possible. Rip the door panel off and take a wire brush and have at it on the inside as well. Clean off everything very well then paint over the rust (outside of door and inside of door) with a rust converter like rust fix by duplicolor or rust reformer spray by rustoleum to treat the metal that is there. Let that dry for 48 hours then knock it all down with 80 grit and then I would purchase some long hair fiberglass filler and pack the hole on the door with it from the outside. May take a couple of applications of that to cover everything. Then knock that stuff down with 36 then 80 and smooth everything out with a normal body filler. Knock that down with 80, 100, 150 then 220 then back mask the doors and apply a filler primer to conceal pin holes. Wet sand that out a day later with a gray scuffing pad or 400 then 600 grit and sand up the side the door a bit as well. Back mask the area again and apply primer sealer. Let dry wet sand out again the back mask and apply paint the clear.

Shit. I would do it for you over a weekend if you bring everything needed. I have a compressor and am confident in at least preserving the door (making it look a lot better for at least a year or two) for you. But basically the right way would be to cut out the infected metal..either make a custom patch or cut out a patch from another door and burn that in...or replace the door.

This mostly comes from clogged door drains and/or beat weatherstripping (around window) and beat dew wipes..all of which replacement are available with minor modifications.

The body to door weather stripping seals right below the door panel, not even close to the bad area.

Thanks, I really appreciate the offer to help out and the advice. I'm think I'm goning to remove the door pannel andwire wheel the rust. I'm leaning towards something like KBS and fiberglass filler to repair it, and then the door paint it the factory white ( as soon as the weather warms up, or at least stops snowing). Hope you don't mind, but I'm probably gonna have a lot of questions for you as soon as I start lol. Thanks again I really didn't know where to begin!

[84GrandMarquis]

And to clarify for everyone what I meant about the doors not latching probarly, I should have been more specific. The doors themself don't really line up (mostly the passenger door, although the rust is wrorse on the drivers) Even when I'm driving along the wind blows in through the space in between the door and the B-pillar. The picture can explain it bettwer then I can. This is what led me to believe that water might be getting in through the door, not to mention the car was in Florida from the time it was new up until 2000, so I was confused as to how it could rust like this. (Just as a side note neither door locks so this might possibly be related to the doors being a little off, I use a club so I'm not to worried about anyone stealing it, or anything in it for that matter)

[87gtVIC]

No problem man. Most important thing is to get rid of as much rusty metal as possible and start with clean metal before applying anything over it to give the repair the best shot possible. Again this is not a permanent fix (unless you are lucky) but will preserve the car a few good years when done right. Now what I said sounded easy but it aint one bit, it really takes practice and some experience to get this stuff done...but it is always good to learn.

In addition to removing the door panels please remove the acorn nuts at the ends of the door and pop off (literally pop off from one side to the other) the cladding on the outside of the door so your wire wheel doesn't mare it when it gets away on ya.

Again once down to metal ya really gotta coat that bish with some sorta rust reformer spray to neutralize the rust as much as possible. (that stuff is a sham to some people because they do no prep work but it does help when used properly).

Let that stuff dry up and scuff the metal up good for long haired filler (because you have some big gaps..the long hair is necessary) and fill her in trying to smooth out the edges though so you dont have too much to sand. Block that stuff out and smooth everything out with lightweight body filler, then sand that smooth for your primer or primer sealer.

Back masking is exactly what it sounds like. You literally tape off your work the flip the paper up leaving a soft edge for the primer and paint to feather itself into leaving you less of an edge to feather out when wetsanding for paint.

etc etc...

yeah just ask question if you have any and I will help. Or even if you are near by i can assist you easily as I have plenty of free time.

Thanks, I really appreciate the offer to help out and the advice. I'm think I'm goning to remove the door pannel andwire wheel the rust. I'm leaning towards something like KBS and fiberglass filler to repair it, and then the door paint it the factory white ( as soon as the weather warms up, or at least stops snowing). Hope you don't mind, but I'm probably gonna have a lot of questions for you as soon as I start lol. Thanks again I really didn't know where to begin!

[Lincolnmania]

sandblast it, rust encapsulate it, seam seal it, paint it.
is it rotted on the outside under the trim?
any repairs you do on the outside you want to weld in new metal, body filler in rust holes is only a temporary cosmetic repair......it will come back with a vengance.
or replace the door with a rust free one

[hypostang]

[ATTACH=CONFIG]28050[/ATTACH] This is what led me to believe that water might be getting in through the door, not to mention the car was in Florida from the time it was new up until 2000, so I was confused as to how it could rust like this.

Just an observation on my part........... 2000 was 11 years ago , I'm surprised its not worse than it is , I sold an 86 Mustang I had ,100% rust free from here in TN, to my daughters boyfriend who lived in Rhode Island ,after *one* New England winter they drove the car back to visit us here in TN and I was staggered how much rust the car had .

Anyway back to topic you are getting very good pointers here . get rid of as much rust as you can ,and hope for the best .

[P72Ford]

In Rhode Island it isn't just the winters. Its the salt air. Most of the population lives in the lower third of the state, which is right along the ocean.

Most of the time I wouldn't even look at a vehicle that came from RI.

[hypostang]

In Rhode Island it isn't just the winters. Its the salt air. Most of the population lives in the lower third of the state, which is right along the ocean.

Most of the time I wouldn't even look at a vehicle that came from RI.

I cannot argue with that at all , it was horrible the damage done in less than 12 months .

I am so glad I moved south

[1987cp]

[ATTACH=CONFIG]28050[/ATTACH]

And to clarify for everyone what I meant about the doors not latching probarly, I should have been more specific. The doors themself don't really line up (mostly the passenger door, although the rust is wrorse on the drivers) Even when I'm driving along the wind blows in through the space in between the door and the B-pillar. The picture can explain it bettwer then I can. This is what led me to believe that water might be getting in through the door, not to mention the car was in Florida from the time it was new up until 2000, so I was confused as to how it could rust like this. (Just as a side note neither door locks so this might possibly be related to the doors being a little off, I use a club so I'm not to worried about anyone stealing it, or anything in it for that matter)

Couple of notes about doors sealing to the body:

1) Door seals are frequently dryrotted or permanently compressed from being a zillion years old. Sometimes nicer replacements can be had used, and there has been some research on GMN into creating a replacement door seal from universal weatherstrip material available from sources such as JCWhitney.

2) My (limited) experience is that a 20-plus-year-old vehicle may well need the doors adjusted, which can obviously affect sealing even if the seals are still OK. Since the hinges bolt on, you can loosen them and change how the door is oriented, and you can also loosen the striker and move it around. Also, the strikers are all supposed to have a cylindrical plastic bushing protecting them - if this is damaged or missing, this can prevent the door from staying quite fully closed even when the striker is adjusted properly. Replacement bushings and full strikers are often available from Dorman/Motormite under the Help! name at your local parts store.

3) Once or twice, I've actually twisted the window frame slightly (with the window down!) to get it to mate more nicely with the seal in the door opening.

4) Check the condition of your window channel seals. Those are also frequently in poor condition, resulting in still more leaks and whistles, and folks here have found a good replacement for them as well as the dew wipes already discussed.



Have you been able to determine what's jamming that prevents your doors from locking? If equipped with power locks (none of mine are, at least not anymore), the actuator can seize up and keep the mechanism from locking (or in my experience, keep it from unlocking, thus the reason I yanked the actuators from my power-lock car).

[85crownHPP]

The doors are actually supposed to/designed to get water in them... clogged drain holes and/or dirt holding water/dampness in makes it rust quick... plus the more salty spray they get...
Usually that's the only place minty boxes with hardly any rust have it...