I'm back! and with my new '75 Lincoln Mark IV

[SofaKingFast]

That's full of win. The most awesome car I ever owned was a 76. I believe it's very similar to the 75, I still have the factory manuals, if you end up needing anything scanned drop me a line. Love the old AAA sticker! Pete

Thanks man, the sticker says "Member over 20 years" on the back. Those factory manuals can be useful, I just bought a set at the Pomona auto show. Thank you though. I believe that the 75's are identical to the 76's except the 76 designer editions. How many lipstick editions were made? I hope "lipstick" isn't the official name.

I thought about buying a Holley 600 cfm i saw at pomona, a pre-73 timing set off a ford 460 is gonna be hard to find. I didn't know about that canister before, thanks. I wonder how well it works.

I like the look of the factory air cleaner, but I can't wait to take the smog stuff off. This is gonna be cool.

[Piece-it pete]

The timing set should be easy to find

Pete

[packman]

Nice find!!! I'd be hard pressed to leave that 460 alone. Not sure what I would do for wheels. Probably go for the stock look. Other than that, the Lincoln has beautiful lines. N-JOI!



Packman

[RyPow]

How many lipstick editions were made? I hope "lipstick" isn't the official name.

I thought about buying a Holley 600 cfm i saw at pomona, a pre-73 timing set off a ford 460 is gonna be hard to find. I didn't know about that canister before, thanks. I wonder how well it works.

I like the look of the factory air cleaner, but I can't wait to take the smog stuff off. This is gonna be cool.

Sorry....Lipstick is definitely the factory name of that option package It was offered on the Thunderbird as well (same chassis as the Mark through '76).

The pre-'73 timing set is very easy to find in the aftermarket. Cloyes is one of the more economical options for a double-roller version, IIRC.

Keep in mind that if you're leaving the stock carb and intake manifold in place, removing the smog equipment won't make a big difference in performance. Even the air pump doesn't rob nearly as much power as people "think" it does. Those Motorcraft carbs are boat anchors on a good day and can't be tuned for much more performance than stock. When I switched to the Edelbrock combination on my '76 T-bird 460, it drove like a totally different car. Vastly improved throttle response, more power and a better powerband. Noticeably better on fuel too. So unless you're going to swap intake/carb, I wouldn't bother pulling off equipment. It will likely run like crap on cold starts and not be as driveable. All of that equipment was designed to work in conjunction with each other and with how the factory carb was set up.

I've had this discussion with several different people who wanted to get more jam out of a '70s 460. No sense in ripping stuff off unless you're replacing intake/carb.

[88Vic]

I like the look of the factory air cleaner, but I can't wait to take the smog stuff off. This is gonna be cool.

Keep the factory air cleaner but do like RyPow said, take off the silencer canister, cut the hole bigger and run a second stock intake tube to the front like the other tube. That and make sure the bends are smooth, the bend in the tube there looks kinked, you could probably use a 45* PVC bend and make it work, paint it blue to match

Also don't know how crazy you want to get, i've seen guys mod the stock carb for more flow like cutting off the choke tower and hardware, mild porting (smoothing out the edges) of the venturis and intake. I can tell you from experience running a no choke carb on the street can be a hassle, in warm weather it's not so bad but when it's 30 or colder it's no fun at all. You can do the porting but leave the choke on it, not sure how well it'll run but worth a shot if you're even thinking about a carb/intake upgrade. If I had a carbed car or truck i'd try it since i'm nuts like that.

[SofaKingFast]

Sorry....Lipstick is definitely the factory name of that option package It was offered on the Thunderbird as well (same chassis as the Mark through '76).

The pre-'73 timing set is very easy to find in the aftermarket. Cloyes is one of the more economical options for a double-roller version, IIRC.

Oh well, I still love the white on red. Is this engine timing set what I need from Cloyes? Just the chain and sprockets?

Its running alright for now, but it's very bouncy as it hits bumps along the road. I really need new front shocks, with some help I'll get those done. I'll have a shop put in lower control arm bushings, strut rod bushings, give it an alignment, and throw some new tires on (that's what they told me it needs). They could probably fix the old hubcaps that I got for it as well. Then I'll have the cats and resonators taken off. I'm going to look for an edelbrock 600 cfm and then I'll remove the rest of the smog equipment when I install the new carb. I'll keep the choke on it, I could probably get away with not having one out here, but I'd like to have it just in case. Sometime during all that I need to patch the rust along the rear window and have the vinyl top replaced.

That dual snorkel on the air cleaner sounds interesting, but I dunno, I kinda want to keep it as original looking as possible.

I'm starting college soon so, this is probably going top take a while, but its fun to have a project.

[SofaKingFast]

I also have a question about the automatic climate control thing. When I moved the temperature dial up, the heater would come on. The system is out of refrigerant so the a/c didn't work. Now, when I move the switch up the heater won't come on, but the heater core is ok. When I move the switch to VENT, it blows air out the dash vents, and when i switch it to AUTO, it only blows air out the vents under the dash. What is wrong with it? How is it supposed to work?

[tjc78]

When you say, "under the dash" you are talking about the floor vents correct? If so I would think that is correct. Most (if not all) ATC systems direct heat to the floor and A/C to the panel vents.

When you put if on "defog" I believe you should get floor and defrost together. And obviously on defrost it should only blow out of the defroster vent.

I would think this system is highly dependent on the cabin temperature sensor. If it's wonky, the system will do all kinds of stupid stuff.

[Piece-it pete]

Iirc there's 8 million vacuum lines going into the back of that control unit.

Pete

[tjc78]

Yeah that system is different than what my 79 had. They simplified it for 78/79 to something more like what the box Panthers had which is really "semi" ATC. You have to select where the air comes out.

[SofaKingFast]

When you say, "under the dash" you are talking about the floor vents correct? If so I would think that is correct. Most (if not all) ATC systems direct heat to the floor and A/C to the panel vents.

When you put if on "defog" I believe you should get floor and defrost together. And obviously on defrost it should only blow out of the defroster vent.

I would think this system is highly dependent on the cabin temperature sensor. If it's wonky, the system will do all kinds of stupid stuff.

Yep, that's exactly how it works. Except when I put it on auto and move the temperature switch up, it just blows cold air out the floor vents. Where is the cabin temperature sensor? I guess I need to look in those shop manuals I got.

[RyPow]

Is this engine timing set what I need from Cloyes? Just the chain and sprockets?

That's correct! It will be a good thing to replace anyway, as the factory-style sprockets had a nylon coating to make them quieter and that coating has likely become a pile of nylon chunks in your oil pan by now. If/when you get around to replacing it, let us know how sloppy the chain was! Some of them end up being brutally loose.

That automatic climate control system is the same as the one in my '76 Thunderbird. It's quite an ingenious piece of electromechanical engineering. Works very well when everything is functioning. The system in my T-bird was flawless. If the system blows air on the floor when you move the temperature up but the air is cold, you have an issue with the temperature blend door (vacuum actuator), heater core or water valve (also a vacuum actuator) on the heater supply line. The "cabin temperature sensor" is actually a bimetallic switch behind the passenger dash panel with a cable from the temperature control on the dash that changes the tension on the bimetal strip. This accomplishes the automatic selection of hot or cool air based on your desired temp and the air temperature within the car. There's lots of potential for vacuum leak and electrical/mechanical failure in the system, but when functional it is quite an ingenious way of providing fully automatic HVAC control with no computer power whatsoever!

[RyPow]

Actually, pick a timing set for a '71. I'm not sure if it was '72 or '73 when they went to the 8 deg. retard.

[Piece-it pete]

This mentions factory TDC timing: CLOYES Part # C3079X at Rock Auto, and it's a dbl roller.

Pete

[SofaKingFast]

That automatic climate control system is the same as the one in my '76 Thunderbird. It's quite an ingenious piece of electromechanical engineering. Works very well when everything is functioning.

It sure is! You're right about the potential for failure, nine vacuum lines run to the back of the control unit. I'm betting that its that bimetallic strip, but I guess I'll have to have the dash apart to find out, I'll check the manual again. I hope someone still makes parts for the system.

As far as the timing set goes cloyes lists the same part number for a '72-'76 set, C-3013K but for a '68-'71 mark iv it has this one: C-3037. Both generations had the 460 as the only option. I looked at the set from rock auto, is it an upgraded one? it looks different than the ones on cloyes.

For carbs, I was wondering would a 600cfm be big enough? What about an edelbrock 700cfm? I'll let you guys know when I get to the engine work, but I think I should tackle the rust first.