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    mounting switch on dash trim

    I seem to remember someone talking about trying to mount switches on their 90-91 dash trim (the long skinny bit).


    I know all I need to do is drill a hole in it, but am I going to split it down the middle the instant I try? I want to put a toggle switch or two on it for lights and maybe trunk release.
    sigpic


    - 1990 Ford LTD Crown Victoria P72 - the street boat - 5.0 liter EFI - Ported HO intake/TB, 90 TC shroud/overflow, Aero airbox/zip tube, Cobra camshaft, 19lb injectors, dual exhaust w/ Magnaflows, Cat/Smog & AC delete, 3G alternator, MOOG chassis parts & KYB cop shocks, 215/70r/15s on 95-97 Merc rims

    - 2007 Ford Escape XLT - soccer mom lifted station wagon - 3.0 Duratec, auto, rear converter delete w/ Magnaflow dual exhaust

    - 2008 Mercury Grand Marquis Ultimate Edition - Daily driver - 4.6 2 valve Mod motor, 4R75E, 2.73s. Bone stock

    #2
    Originally posted by 1990LTD View Post
    I seem to remember someone talking about trying to mount switches on their 90-91 dash trim (the long skinny bit).


    I know all I need to do is drill a hole in it, but am I going to split it down the middle the instant I try? I want to put a toggle switch or two on it for lights and maybe trunk release.
    Do not do this. DO NOT!

    Coming from experience, brother. I did it, and whereas it doesn't split, it deforms the surface of the trim. Plus, the switches look like absolute crap when mounted there. I replaced the trim, and relocated the switches. Folks wonder why my CV has GMQ trim (because I couldn't find CV trim to replace the damaged piece)...

    A better place for the switches is to the right of the steering column, right below the speedometer cluster, in the plastic trim. If you look at my user profile on this site, you'll find a link to my cardomain where there are pictures of my switches (maybe before and after the trim idea). I'm at work, so I can't post specific pictures.
    **1976 Ford F-150 4WD: 360, 4 spd, 3.50s, factory A/C, 4" lift, Bilsteins, US Indy Mags, 35s Cruiser
    **2016 F-150 XLT 4WD SCSB: 5.0/ 6R80, 3.55, 90K Daily Driver
    **2012 Ford Mustang Boss 302: 5.0/ 6 spd/ 3.73s, 20K Cruiser
    **2012 Harley Davidson Wide Glide (FXDWG):103/ Cobra Speedsters/ Cosmetics, 9K Poseur HD Rider

    Comment


      #3
      Cool, thanks man. It mus have been one of your posts I recall reading.
      sigpic


      - 1990 Ford LTD Crown Victoria P72 - the street boat - 5.0 liter EFI - Ported HO intake/TB, 90 TC shroud/overflow, Aero airbox/zip tube, Cobra camshaft, 19lb injectors, dual exhaust w/ Magnaflows, Cat/Smog & AC delete, 3G alternator, MOOG chassis parts & KYB cop shocks, 215/70r/15s on 95-97 Merc rims

      - 2007 Ford Escape XLT - soccer mom lifted station wagon - 3.0 Duratec, auto, rear converter delete w/ Magnaflow dual exhaust

      - 2008 Mercury Grand Marquis Ultimate Edition - Daily driver - 4.6 2 valve Mod motor, 4R75E, 2.73s. Bone stock

      Comment


        #4
        Any pics of where you were thinking of? I am not blessed with a 90's interior.
        ~David~

        My 1987 Crown Victoria Coupe: The Brown Blob
        My 2004 Mercedes Benz E320:The Benz

        Originally posted by ootdega
        My life is a long series of "nevermind" and "I guess not."

        Originally posted by DerekTheGreat
        But, that's just coming from me, this site's biggest pessimist. Best of luck

        Originally posted by gadget73
        my car starts and it has AC. Yours doesn't start and it has no AC. Seems obvious to me.




        Comment


          #5
          use the most recessed switch you can find, those look the best IMO... I'm partial to round rocker switches myself.
          Make sure the switch is rated to handle whatever load you are putting through it... I melted some cheap switches with fog lights in my old old car
          Pete ::::>>> resident LED addict and CFI defector LED bulb replacements
          'LTD HPP' 85 Vic (my rusty baby) '06 Honda Reflex 250cc 'Baileys' 91 Vic (faded cream puff) ClifFord 'ODB' 88 P72 (SOLD) '77 LTDII (RIP)
          sigpic
          85HPP's most noteworthy mods: CFI to SEFI conversion w/HO upperstuff headers & flowmasters P71 airbox Towncar seats LED dash light-show center console w/5 gauge package LED 3rd brake light 3G alternator mini starter washer/coolant bottle upgrade Towncar power trunk pull underhood fuse/relay box 16" HPP wheels - police swaybars w/poly rubbers - budget Alpine driven 10 speaker stereo

          Comment


            #6
            melting switches or nuking wires is never fun.

            "the roof... the roof... the roof is on fire..."

            Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
            rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)

            Originally posted by gadget73
            ... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.

            Originally posted by dmccaig
            Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by 87gtVIC View Post
              Any pics of where you were thinking of? I am not blessed with a 90's interior.
              well the trim is just one long skinny piece going from steering wheel to passenger door, all that's on it is Grand Marquis at one end and the rear defrogger button in the middle.... I was going to put two switches between the defrost button and the steering wheel, but the trim piece that was suggested above will work much better
              sigpic


              - 1990 Ford LTD Crown Victoria P72 - the street boat - 5.0 liter EFI - Ported HO intake/TB, 90 TC shroud/overflow, Aero airbox/zip tube, Cobra camshaft, 19lb injectors, dual exhaust w/ Magnaflows, Cat/Smog & AC delete, 3G alternator, MOOG chassis parts & KYB cop shocks, 215/70r/15s on 95-97 Merc rims

              - 2007 Ford Escape XLT - soccer mom lifted station wagon - 3.0 Duratec, auto, rear converter delete w/ Magnaflow dual exhaust

              - 2008 Mercury Grand Marquis Ultimate Edition - Daily driver - 4.6 2 valve Mod motor, 4R75E, 2.73s. Bone stock

              Comment


                #8
                Ahh I know what you are talking about.
                ~David~

                My 1987 Crown Victoria Coupe: The Brown Blob
                My 2004 Mercedes Benz E320:The Benz

                Originally posted by ootdega
                My life is a long series of "nevermind" and "I guess not."

                Originally posted by DerekTheGreat
                But, that's just coming from me, this site's biggest pessimist. Best of luck

                Originally posted by gadget73
                my car starts and it has AC. Yours doesn't start and it has no AC. Seems obvious to me.




                Comment


                  #9
                  If you can find a trim piece from a station wagon with a power antenna, you will have two holes already cut for your switches. This piece has three holes, one for the rear defogger (which you will need because your car has one), one for the power antenna, and one for the tailgate release. I used to own a 1990 Crown Vic police package and the former owners put two toggle switches in the trim piece below and to the left of the steering wheel. One switch was an ignition kill switch and the other one was for the wig-wag headlights.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by neums View Post
                    If you can find a trim piece from a station wagon with a power antenna, you will have two holes already cut for your switches. This piece has three holes, one for the rear defogger (which you will need because your car has one), one for the power antenna, and one for the tailgate release. I used to own a 1990 Crown Vic police package and the former owners put two toggle switches in the trim piece below and to the left of the steering wheel. One switch was an ignition kill switch and the other one was for the wig-wag headlights.
                    I would love to find one of those. One from a Grand Marquis wagon from the left of the steering wheel would be great, I don't know what the button over there was for but it was definitely there.
                    sigpic


                    - 1990 Ford LTD Crown Victoria P72 - the street boat - 5.0 liter EFI - Ported HO intake/TB, 90 TC shroud/overflow, Aero airbox/zip tube, Cobra camshaft, 19lb injectors, dual exhaust w/ Magnaflows, Cat/Smog & AC delete, 3G alternator, MOOG chassis parts & KYB cop shocks, 215/70r/15s on 95-97 Merc rims

                    - 2007 Ford Escape XLT - soccer mom lifted station wagon - 3.0 Duratec, auto, rear converter delete w/ Magnaflow dual exhaust

                    - 2008 Mercury Grand Marquis Ultimate Edition - Daily driver - 4.6 2 valve Mod motor, 4R75E, 2.73s. Bone stock

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by 1990LTD View Post
                      I would love to find one of those. One from a Grand Marquis wagon from the left of the steering wheel would be great, I don't know what the button over there was for but it was definitely there.
                      Police cars had a switch on that side for the wig wag headlights. At least mine did.
                      **1976 Ford F-150 4WD: 360, 4 spd, 3.50s, factory A/C, 4" lift, Bilsteins, US Indy Mags, 35s Cruiser
                      **2016 F-150 XLT 4WD SCSB: 5.0/ 6R80, 3.55, 90K Daily Driver
                      **2012 Ford Mustang Boss 302: 5.0/ 6 spd/ 3.73s, 20K Cruiser
                      **2012 Harley Davidson Wide Glide (FXDWG):103/ Cobra Speedsters/ Cosmetics, 9K Poseur HD Rider

                      Comment


                        #12
                        I think your right, the wagon tailgate release switch was on the shorter trim piece to the left of the steering wheel. I have seen the three hole pieces though for the right of the steering wheel. Maybe the third hole was for the instaclear windshield option.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          If wiring fog/driving lights to a switch use a standard relay. Can be picked up for about $5 at auto parts stores. Relay takes the current of the lights, the switch just provides power for the relay. Just tell them what you're doing and they should know what you want.

                          2011 Grand Marquis LS Ultimate Edition
                          Dual Exhaust w/ AP XLerator mufflers and 3 1/2" tips, Eibach 1" rear sway bar, Pioneer Head unit and speakers, 17X8 Drag DR-72 wheels

                          RIP 1984 2Dr Crown Vic "The Millennium Falcon"
                          Carbed 5.0 HO w/nitrous , Performer RPM intake, GT40P heads, E303 cam, FRP Shorties, FRP 9mm plug wires, Off-Road H-pipe, Magnaflow round mufflers, 2000 rpm stall
                          NA-15.78@91.21, 80hp shot-14.48@96.21

                          Comment


                            #14
                            I was thinking about making an under seat switch box for a while. If you knew what order they were in there wouldn't be a problem with finding them. I was thinking about it for FD lights I may eventually have to put in my car.
                            "Shakedown"- 1991 Grand Marquis GS Dual exhaust, Magnaflow xl turbos, Rear anti sway bar, Outlaw 1 wheels, 43k miles
                            1985 GMC 1500

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