1978 Grand Marquis

[87gtVIC]

I picked one up a few years back when I seen it pop up on eastwoods site. Glad I never had to use it yet. If only having the tools for the job really meant you would never have to do the job......

[Grand1]

I used it for the newlines as well. Definely practiced to dial it in. Niccopper def needs less pressure than standard.

[DerekTheGreat]

Never did brakes on one of those but that looks right- hope you hooked up the parking brake cable before putting it all together.

Nicopp kinks much easier though. Oops. Said that a lot my first few times working with it.

[Grand1]

So, I have purchased a new carb...a Quickfuel 680 Slayer, four corner idle have heard good things. Had a carb fire previously and the old one was beat to shit. Headers will be put on as well, this year.Gonna put a new throttle cable in and will need to remove the seat....since I will do that, its time to get rid of the 40+ year carpet. I bought the mass backing/ too expensive one on RA.

Removed seats very easy, with the exception of the front seat lap belts. Broke a T50 and made the decision that they are staying there. I can cut the carpet to fish those through and honestly its in a position that no one will see it.

Found the only weak point on my underbody/Floorplan. Sanded the shit out of it and other surface rust areas put copious amounts of por-15. Will be doing a fiberglass patch very soon. Sanded the front seat brackets and sprayed rust convertor.

[Grand1]

Patched that hole. Much better. Thats Quickfuel Carb is on and definitely a much noticed response. C6 is starting to slip....new tranny is gonna have to be in the works. Cant complain have absolutely beat the shit out of it.

[Tiggie]

Carpet looks great. Fiberglass repair is pretty handy for weak but still intact floor repair.

[Mainemantom]

Carpet looks good. Did you have to do allot of trimming to make it fit ? Did you glue it down around the hump ?

[Grand1]

It wasn't that bad, thought it would be much worse as I am assuming 78 GM coupes dont get new carpeting much. I trimmed like 3/4 inch on each side. The biggest issue was cutting the slits for the driver and passenger side floor seat belt brackets. I should have waited to do so after placing the seat down.....I did it before. The weight of seats pulled the carpet back from my original measurement. Not a drop of glue in case I have to get under there someday.

[DerekTheGreat]

Carpet does indeed look good.

[Grand1]

So about my trans slipping. Put it up on stands and started it up. Went under and pulled the line off the transmission modulator, definitely have vaccum.

While I was down there I noticed a leak and traced it down to my trans dipstick. Upon popping it off, the oring was toast. Went to a Ford dealer and no shit, they were able to pull up the part number. I think this would work for c4s and AODs as well. Dropped some Lucas trans slip, mechanic in a bottle and some Type F and ....it shifts fine now. It really is something thinking that a 44 year old trans can live this long.

[sly]

Those seals are notorious for that too. I think the 4R7x uses the same one as well.

[DerekTheGreat]

So about my trans slipping. Put it up on stands and started it up. Went under and pulled the line off the transmission modulator, definitely have vaccum.

While I was down there I noticed a leak and traced it down to my trans dipstick. Upon popping it off, the oring was toast. Went to a Ford dealer and no shit, they were able to pull up the part number. I think this would work for c4s and AODs as well. Dropped some Lucas trans slip, mechanic in a bottle and some Type F and ....it shifts fine now. It really is something thinking that a 44 year old trans can live this long.

I like to think that if you don't beat on 'em, aren't a pedal stabber or erratic with throttle action and lock out gears to prevent excessive shifting, they'll last a very long time. I've never had one of mine fail.

[Grand1]

Well this will be a hell of an update; suspension, exhaust, flushing, trans. Fist the suspension.... Redid the entire front end (minus drag link)....was a mixture of surgical precision and brutality. I have good luck with Mevotech, so thier Supreme line was the go too. Saw many Ebay wonders of old school ball joints and bushings that were just old and rottening.

Springs are no joke. The width of such prevents standard spring compressors from latching on. I got a good deal ($93) on Mevotech Supreme Springs SMS8336.
When taking off the old spring, I noticed about an index fingers width of length from the end of the channel in the LCA.



Replacing the coil spring insulators was a must, mine were petrified and half crumbled. There is little online available for a "78 GM". After searching I was able to find the below, it had the same last 5 numbers of the part number in my shop manual...they are spot on


The LCA bushings were replaced...I paid $60 for them to be installed, it was money well spent given the last thing I wanted was to bend the LCAs...they are non existent



The Upper Control Arms are the same...good luck finding them. Drilling out the upperball joint took forever...those fuckers are in there. I didnt.want to widen the hole, so it was a slow go.



Replaced the bumper as well


Now, the bushings for the UCA where frustrating as hell. The standard tool for installation doesn't mate like for other panthers. Had to make a wood shim for the outside of the tool to rest flush. One bushings collar broke during install, but was able to get it out and buy another. This was the point where I got pissed. Word of note, passenger side you have 1/16 of a turn to get that nut off. The picture is deceiving, it's tight AF

There was alot of mystery for the strut rod(and bushings(Kanter Auto has them for 20 a side)) that attatch from the front to the LCA.There is nothing online I could find and also my shop manual gave it hardly a mention. Once the spring is getting jacked in, ita a must to align the two holes where the strut rod secures to LCA. I had good luck with tightening the lower control arm more than typical for ease of aft movement for this....then of course torque down to spec with the suspension loaded.

Getting those things off took time....again good luck finding the part if it goes south. Mine didn't have appear to have a collar, like some.


The ends of the bushings, the "cups" were originally installed "cups out" However, the replacement bushings and new cups (Kanter Auto) where of differnt diameter, so I installed them "cups in". As I was able to ascertain the correct bushing placement, based off the wear pattern on the old bushings.


(Installed, above)

Also got a much beefier sway bar ($255 Kanter Auto) Only modification needed was to bend my transmission lines up and inch and move the alt by getting a longer belt thereby moving it farther down the bracket, and away part number (13575 Dayco) The back of the alt was grinded and the back no longer rested on the bar. The differance is unmistakable in handling and launch.


All of this coupled with KYB,.and an aligment made this well worth it...its a certifiable tank. My front end is done, as in, never gonna have to touch it for a very long time. No squeaks or creeks.

The repair was long...every part, every nook and cranny was wirebrushed, sanded. Then hit with rust reformer and a coat of black caliper paint which made for a long go, but it was done right.

[Tiggie]

Nice work there. None of that is fun but definitely rewarding when you take a cruise.

[VicCrownVic]

Alright! Sounds like it's ready to be back on the road again.