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Regarding the geometry, I use a Lentech valve body and my TV cable is hooked directly to the lower hole on the Holley throttle lever. Len from Lentech checked out my setup at the last World Ford Challenge I raced at and he blessed it. We were in the staging lanes for Open Comp and he was behind me with his Maverick. I have not done any additional work to my tranny and it has over 120,000 miles on it with a pile of 11 second nitrous runs under its belt. This is more a testament to the Lentech valve bodies than what you can get away with on a stock tranny.
I was looking at constant pressure valve bodies a while back, and saw that this same thing can be done. The TV cable just serves as a way to adjust the shift point, from what I read.
Interesting that you can do that with success, especially if you don't have a constant pressure vb.
I seem to remember hearing that the TV arm (transmission side) motion should be one to one with the carburetor or throttle body arm.
So as long as the distance from the mounting point of the TV cable to the throttle shaft (point of rotation) is the same as the distance from the transmission arm shaft to where the cable is mounted on the transmission arm, you should be good.
I am going to try and confirm this when I put the new carb/ TV corrector on my car.
**2012 Ford Mustang Boss 302: 5.0/ 6 spd/ 3.73s, 20K Cruiser **2006 MGM,"Ultimate": 4.6/ 2.73/ Dark Tint, Magnaflows, 19s, 115K Daily Driver **2012 Harley Davidson Wide Glide (FXDWG):103/ Cobra Speedsters/ Cosmetics, 9K Poseur HD Rider **1976 Ford F-150 4WD: 360, 4 spd, 3.50s, factory A/C, 4" lift, Bilsteins, US Indy Mags, 35s Truck Duties
I was looking at constant pressure valve bodies a while back, and saw that this same thing can be done. The TV cable just serves as a way to adjust the shift point, from what I read.
Interesting that you can do that with success, especially if you don't have a constant pressure vb.
When I was first doing my build, I was going to grind the lefer off of my throttle body and tack it onto the Holley. I found that the distance to center was about the same and left it alone. The most important thing is that the cable moves immediately when the throttle moves. The valve body I used has elevated pressure but not constant pressure. If you have a true constant pressure then the TV cable can not possibly effect shift points.
When I was first doing my build, I was going to grind the lefer off of my throttle body and tack it onto the Holley. I found that the distance to center was about the same and left it alone. The most important thing is that the cable moves immediately when the throttle moves. The valve body I used has elevated pressure but not constant pressure. If you have a true constant pressure then the TV cable can not possibly effect shift points.
I pulled this from TCI's web site. It mentions having it connected for proper shifting, whatever that means.
Until recently, no manufacturer has offered a solution to this costly mistake. At TCI® we recognized the need for a product which eliminates the chance of transmission failure and produced the Constant Pressure Valve Body™. While the T.V. cable still needs connection for proper transmission shifting, the TCI® Constant Pressure Valve Body™ provides more freedom when setting part throttle shift points. Line pressure is fixed with no chance of encountering a low line pressure condition and the shift characteristics are greatly improved.
This is from Silver Fox's web site, regarding their own constant pressure vb. It mentions the TV cable as being a kickdown.
Utilizing the TV system as a “kick down” style application allows this valve body to maintain its auto functions. If disconnected, the valve body will perform much like a manual valve body, and will not downshift with increased throttle – perfect for that day at the track or dyno!
Ed, I was looking at lentech's website earlier, after reading your post. Which VB do you have from them? I know you said you haven't done any additional work to the transmission. Most of their VB's mention having a non-lock-up transmission.
Do you also have a converter in your car?
I will be looking to do a converter and VB in my fairly fresh AOD in the near future. I had been considering the Silver Fox VB, primarily because I had forgotten about Lentech. I am not sure of where I will get the converter from.
However, I do not want to go with a non-lock-up, because I don't want to have to take the transmission apart and change input shafts, etc.
Any input on an appropriate VB or converter manufacturer? I'm looking for feedback on which vb you have, whether it works with a lock-up converter, etc.
**2012 Ford Mustang Boss 302: 5.0/ 6 spd/ 3.73s, 20K Cruiser **2006 MGM,"Ultimate": 4.6/ 2.73/ Dark Tint, Magnaflows, 19s, 115K Daily Driver **2012 Harley Davidson Wide Glide (FXDWG):103/ Cobra Speedsters/ Cosmetics, 9K Poseur HD Rider **1976 Ford F-150 4WD: 360, 4 spd, 3.50s, factory A/C, 4" lift, Bilsteins, US Indy Mags, 35s Truck Duties
Ed, I was looking at lentech's website earlier, after reading your post. Which VB do you have from them? Most of their VB's mention having a non-lock-up transmission. Do you also have a converter in your car?
I will be looking to do a converter and VB in my fairly fresh AOD in the near future. I had been considering the Silver Fox VB, primarily because I had forgotten about Lentech. I am not sure of where I will get the converter from.
However, I do not want to go with a non-lock-up, because I don't want to have to take the transmission apart and change input shafts, etc.
Any input on an appropriate VB or converter manufacturer? I'm looking for feedback on which vb you have, whether it works with a lock-up converter, etc.
I have a Street Terminator vintage 2001 with a Lock Up converter from Lentech (TCS). When you are prepared to shell out the cash, talk to Len directly instead of relying on what is listed on their web site.
Foxymang, good thought about Silver Fox. As I've mentioned, I like their claims of being able to adjust shift points with a turn of a screw, but there's lots I don't know as well.
Ed, what does Lentech offer in the way of being able to select your WOT shift poitns?
2012 Mazda5 Touring | Finally working on the LTD again!
Foxymang, good thought about Silver Fox. As I've mentioned, I like their claims of being able to adjust shift points with a turn of a screw, but there's lots I don't know as well.
Ed, what does Lentech offer in the way of being able to select your WOT shift poitns?
The whole point of a Lentech valve body is the ability to shift manually yet place it in D when you feel lazy and OD is electronically locked out until you want it. You run a CV governor which causes it to hit the next gear as soon as you select it. If you leave it in D it shifts about like a normal CV. OD is electrical. Lockup is only in OD. Normally you get partial lockup in D. The clutch activates but there are 2 paths for the power to go as you have 2 input shafts.
Ah, so a completely different critter than with SilverFox. He said his VBs were basically for full-auto use and you do the "epoxy mod" if you want to change OD behavior. I do prefer the idea of an electric OD lockout than having no OD lockout.
2012 Mazda5 Touring | Finally working on the LTD again!
Ah, so a completely different critter than with SilverFox. He said his VBs were basically for full-auto use and you do the "epoxy mod" if you want to change OD behavior. I do prefer the idea of an electric OD lockout than having no OD lockout.
The downside is that you have to lift off the accelerator when downshifting from or upshifting to OD. No WOT allowed in OD either...
The downside is that you have to lift off the accelerator when downshifting from or upshifting to OD. No WOT allowed in OD either...
No WOT in OD? That seems weird ... especially as even the TransGo kit advertises WOT in OD (haven't tested it myself, no safe/legal place to exceed 130mph around here). Unless that's one of the things SF was referring to when he commented that the only TransGo product he liked was their governors ....
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