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    lug nuts

    What determines what type of lug nut gets used on a particular wheel?
    sigpic


    - 1990 Ford LTD Crown Victoria P72 - the street boat - 5.0 liter EFI - Ported HO intake/TB, 90 TC shroud/overflow, Aero airbox/zip tube, Cobra camshaft, 19lb injectors, dual exhaust w/ Magnaflows, Cat/Smog & AC delete, 3G alternator, MOOG chassis parts & KYB cop shocks, 215/70r/15s on 95-97 Merc rims

    - 2007 Ford Escape XLT - soccer mom lifted station wagon - 3.0 Duratec, auto, rear converter delete w/ Magnaflow dual exhaust

    - 2008 Mercury Grand Marquis Ultimate Edition - Daily driver - 4.6 2 valve Mod motor, 4R75E, 2.73s. Bone stock

    #2
    Some frustrated car loving engineer sitting in an office in Detroit trying to figure out how he's supposed to keep the rims on the car with $.0005 per stud budgeted by the beancounters who run the company

    Pete
    Originally posted by gadget73
    For other types of inquiry, more information is required. Please press 4 to speak to a representative who can help you with your question. This call may be monitored for quality assurance purposes.


    2003 Grand Marquis Ultimate, the "Stealth Bomber": http://www.grandmarq.net/vb/showthre...-Grand-Marquis
    1991 S-10, 'Bulldog', 2.5l 5 speed: http://www.grandmarq.net/vb/showthre...375#post698375
    1985 Town Car, 'Faded Glory', gone but not forgotten. 84/87/91/97 MGMs too.

    Comment


      #3
      this, basically. If you're looking for lugnuts for your car, you need 1/2-20 acorn or taper seat (same thing) lug nuts. If they're aluminum wheels, you want tall ones so you can get a lug wrench on them.
      86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
      5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

      91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

      1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

      Originally posted by phayzer5
      I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

      Comment


        #4
        Depends on the wheel. ;-)

        If you have tapered seats, then you need the above.
        If you have the straight holed aluminums, you need the ones with a big washer and flat shank that fits into the hole of the wheel.
        If you have shitty crager unilugs, you need the oblong keyed washer and shanked nut.

        Alex.

        Comment


          #5
          Just lacey spoke alloy Ford wheels.
          sigpic


          - 1990 Ford LTD Crown Victoria P72 - the street boat - 5.0 liter EFI - Ported HO intake/TB, 90 TC shroud/overflow, Aero airbox/zip tube, Cobra camshaft, 19lb injectors, dual exhaust w/ Magnaflows, Cat/Smog & AC delete, 3G alternator, MOOG chassis parts & KYB cop shocks, 215/70r/15s on 95-97 Merc rims

          - 2007 Ford Escape XLT - soccer mom lifted station wagon - 3.0 Duratec, auto, rear converter delete w/ Magnaflow dual exhaust

          - 2008 Mercury Grand Marquis Ultimate Edition - Daily driver - 4.6 2 valve Mod motor, 4R75E, 2.73s. Bone stock

          Comment


            #6
            stock Ford aluminum wheels need tall acorn (taper) nuts with a 1/2-20 thread.
            86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
            5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

            91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

            1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

            Originally posted by phayzer5
            I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by gadget73 View Post
              stock Ford aluminum wheels need tall acorn (taper) nuts with a 1/2-20 thread.
              there are two types of taper lug nuts 45* and 60* you need 60*, 45* is normally only used on 5/8" circle track studs
              http://secondhandracing.com/Home.aspx
              http://secondhandradio.com/

              R.I.P. Jason P Harrill 6-12-06

              http://www.grandmarq.net/vb/showthread.php?t=5634

              Comment


                #8
                That's right, it really depends if you have aluminum wheels and you have to know if it is 60* or 45*. I guess it is best for you to visit an auto repair shop and let them replace your wheel lug nuts and fix the problem.

                Comment


                  #9
                  When was the last time someone paid a shop to replace lugnuts? :confused:
                  2012 Mazda5 Touring | Finally working on the LTD again!

                  Comment


                    #10
                    if actually would make sense if you trusted the shop and weren't sure what size you needed, as you could let them test out all the different ones they have (a good shop that does lots of tires will have almost any size imaginable) instead of you trying it out with non-returnable lug nuts you have to pay for.

                    85 4 door 351 Civi Crown Victoria - Summer daily driver, sleeper in the making, and wildly inappropriate autocross machine
                    160KMs 600cfm holley, shorty headers, 2.5" catted exhaust, 255/295 tires, cop shocks, cop swaybars, underdrive pulley, 2.73L gears.
                    waiting for install: 3.27's, Poly bushings, boxed rear arms, 2500 stall converter, ported e7's, etc

                    06 Mazda 3 hatch 2.3L 5AT (winter beater that cost more than my summer car)

                    Comment


                      #11
                      if actually would make sense if you trusted the shop and weren't sure what size you needed, as you could let them test out all the different ones they have (a good shop that does lots of tires will have almost any size imaginable) instead of you trying it out with non-returnable lug nuts you have to pay for.


                      Then again, in a perfect world you'd take that a step forward and know someone with a shop where you could do that free of charge and just buy 20 of whatever lug nut you found to fit.

                      85 4 door 351 Civi Crown Victoria - Summer daily driver, sleeper in the making, and wildly inappropriate autocross machine
                      160KMs 600cfm holley, shorty headers, 2.5" catted exhaust, 255/295 tires, cop shocks, cop swaybars, underdrive pulley, 2.73L gears.
                      waiting for install: 3.27's, Poly bushings, boxed rear arms, 2500 stall converter, ported e7's, etc

                      06 Mazda 3 hatch 2.3L 5AT (winter beater that cost more than my summer car)

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Originally posted by 1987cp View Post
                        When was the last time someone paid a shop to replace lugnuts? :confused:

                        Just last week here

                        Just like on oil drain plugs, lug threads can get thin and weak, making them fight the whole way on, eventually getting cross thread-ed and ruining the stud. Anytime a vehicle comes in with tight nuts we recommend replacing them, and they usually go for it.
                        Pete ::::>>> resident LED addict and CFI defector LED bulb replacements
                        'LTD HPP' 85 Vic (my rusty baby) '06 Honda Reflex 250cc 'Baileys' 91 Vic (faded cream puff) ClifFord 'ODB' 88 P72 (SOLD) '77 LTDII (RIP)
                        sigpic
                        85HPP's most noteworthy mods: CFI to SEFI conversion w/HO upperstuff headers & flowmasters P71 airbox Towncar seats LED dash light-show center console w/5 gauge package LED 3rd brake light 3G alternator mini starter washer/coolant bottle upgrade Towncar power trunk pull underhood fuse/relay box 16" HPP wheels - police swaybars w/poly rubbers - budget Alpine driven 10 speaker stereo

                        Comment


                          #13
                          You could take one off & bring it to the store to ccompare it.



                          87 Ford LTD Crown Victoria Country Squire Station Wagon. 4.10's, Repacked Trac Loc, Boxed LCA's, Explorer Intake, 65mm T-body, 'Stang Cam, 'Stang Air tube, K&N, GT-40X Heads, 1" Spacer, 1 5/8 BBK's, 2.5" Pypes X-pipe w/high flow cats, Single Chamber Thunderbolts, B&M 'vertor, Po-lice Swaybars.

                          91 Mercury Grand Marquis Colony Park Station Wagon. K-Code, 4.10's, Repacked Trac Loc, MK VII LSC Engine, 'Stang Upper Intake, Stang Air Tube, K&N, 65 mm T-Body, 'Stang Headers, 'Stang Cat Pipe,'Stang Torque Convertor, 2 Chamber Thunderbolts.

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Yeah, what mitymerc said. I have to do that this winter because I knocked over the center cap that I had the lug nuts held in. I lost four of them. Last time I replaced lugnuts for the CV, they weren't cheap.


                            Packman

                            Comment


                              #15
                              You can get a set of Dorman chrome acorn lug nuts for $20... plain nuts shouldn't be more than a buck each from the parts store...
                              Pete ::::>>> resident LED addict and CFI defector LED bulb replacements
                              'LTD HPP' 85 Vic (my rusty baby) '06 Honda Reflex 250cc 'Baileys' 91 Vic (faded cream puff) ClifFord 'ODB' 88 P72 (SOLD) '77 LTDII (RIP)
                              sigpic
                              85HPP's most noteworthy mods: CFI to SEFI conversion w/HO upperstuff headers & flowmasters P71 airbox Towncar seats LED dash light-show center console w/5 gauge package LED 3rd brake light 3G alternator mini starter washer/coolant bottle upgrade Towncar power trunk pull underhood fuse/relay box 16" HPP wheels - police swaybars w/poly rubbers - budget Alpine driven 10 speaker stereo

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