Making a box not handle like a box..

[Mr Bean]

Buy my 17x9 D windows with brand new 255/50/17 Nitto 555's

Do this.

[t65neon5]

Do this.

ya....do that....before I do.....lol

[His Royal Ghostliness]

I will assume that the hole present on my control arm is the front and everything should just line up right if I bolt that on?

Throw the swaybar on there and check for yourself which hole you have pre-drilled - if it's the front hole for the arm and you line it with the rear hole on the bar then the bar will be jammed into the diff cover, if on the other hand it's the rear hole on the arm and you line it up with the front hole on the bar then the bar will be into the gas tank. Pretty much only one way that this thing fits right, would be pretty hard to screw it up.

You got the swaybar bolts, and also the spacers for them that go inside the arms? You can replace the bolts with whatever Grade-8 fits best, but the spacers would be a bit trickier - you can use generic hardware-store steel sleeves/spacers (with washers to shim them properly as needed), but that takes too much time, much better if you got the right factory parts from the get-go.

[knucklehead0202]

If only I'd known about your wheels Pantera. I just did this:


17x8 MB wheels "Old School" with Nitto 255/50/17, damn those things are expensive!

[ootdega]

I still have the stock front springs and I'm perfectly satisfied with how it handles. Still has a little body roll that could be dealt with, but it's not a huge deal and I take corners pretty fast. 415 rate springs should take care of it. It's more about learning how to drive it. Brake in, power out.

Mine looks like this:

Stock springs
Stock front bar
No rear bar
Gabriel Ultra front shocks
Monroe Max Air rear shocks @ 40 psi
Turbine wheels
225/70r15 General Grabber AT2 tires
Traction-Lok differential

It keeps traction no matter what it's driving on or when, and 90 degree turns at 25 are easy. Stiffer isn't necessarily better.

[BlackVic_P71]

Throw the swaybar on there and check for yourself which hole you have pre-drilled - if it's the front hole for the arm and you line it with the rear hole on the bar then the bar will be jammed into the diff cover, if on the other hand it's the rear hole on the arm and you line it up with the front hole on the bar then the bar will be into the gas tank. Pretty much only one way that this thing fits right, would be pretty hard to screw it up.

You got the swaybar bolts, and also the spacers for them that go inside the arms? You can replace the bolts with whatever Grade-8 fits best, but the spacers would be a bit trickier - you can use generic hardware-store steel sleeves/spacers (with washers to shim them properly as needed), but that takes too much time, much better if you got the right factory parts from the get-go.

But I'm REAL good at screwin stuff up, I'll see after I get the engine started...I do have the bolts and spacers.

[Bobcat]

I still have the stock front springs and I'm perfectly satisfied with how it handles. Still has a little body roll that could be dealt with, but it's not a huge deal and I take corners pretty fast. 415 rate springs should take care of it. It's more about learning how to drive it. Brake in, power out.

Mine looks like this:

Stock springs
Stock front bar
No rear bar
Gabriel Ultra front shocks
Monroe Max Air rear shocks @ 40 psi
Turbine wheels
225/70r15 General Grabber AT2 tires
Traction-Lok differential

It keeps traction no matter what it's driving on or when, and 90 degree turns at 25 are easy. Stiffer isn't necessarily better.

I don't mean to sound like an asshole. But I don't think that would handle nearly close to what I want. My car already has more than that and isn't close to what I want. But.. I'm blaming it a lot on the 15" rims and tires I have. I'm looking for handling similar to a whale P71 with suspension mods.

But I'm REAL good at screwin stuff up, I'll see after I get the engine started...I do have the bolts and spacers.

Obviously not since you've done so good so far!

[knucklehead0202]

Where does one find PI swaybars. There's no boxes in the junkyards around here. Any online suppliers carry them? Or should I just buy addcos? Well, I need springs first to get rid of my starboard list, then i'll deal with that.

[BlackVic_P71]

Where does one find PI swaybars. There's no boxes in the junkyards around here. Any online suppliers carry them? Or should I just buy addcos? Well, I need springs first to get rid of my starboard list, then i'll deal with that.

I got them here, good source for box stuff.

[johnunit]

Yeah basically gotta hunt on forums. There are a couple guys here usually advertising them for $75-125.

[JeffBoudah]

I found my wagon front bar on a wagon in the yard, and the PI rear just stumbled upon on CVN. A member was parting out a whole car. just gotta be at the right place at the right time.

Crazy thought, since the wagon bar is hollow... and has what i would call drainage holes at each end.... could it be filled with an epoxy to make it more ridged?

[sxcpotatoes]

I found my wagon front bar on a wagon in the yard, and the PI rear just stumbled upon on CVN. A member was parting out a whole car. just gotta be at the right place at the right time.

Crazy thought, since the wagon bar is hollow... and has what i would call drainage holes at each end.... could it be filled with an epoxy to make it more ridged?

No, don't fill it.

The hollow bar saves weight, a cylinder is one of the strongest shapes (aside from the triangles to support bridges). You can support a high school textbook with a single sheet of notebook paper in the shape of a cylinder.

The small holes are probably for venting internal air pressure upon flexing and to allow moisture evaporation or drainage if needed.

Too rigid and it will break.

PI front and waggin' front performance is the same but waggin' is lighter.

I don't think there's any better performance part out there that fits our cars, save your money for ladder bars to tie the frame together and prevent twisting when/if you put 8-1500 hp in it.
Sent from my XT557 using Tapatalk 2

[Hearsesrock427]

Heard very good things about this AFCO front shock (http://www.speedwaymotors.com/AFCO-1...7-7,24417.html) in this thread. Been trying to find a good AFCO rear shock to run with this. I'll be running 925 front springs/175 rear springs.

Thanks to to turbo5526b, I've begun making progress on finding the answer:

First you need to install the springs and measure distance between mounting points of the shocks. Then find a shock that is in mid travel. Car must be on its wheels to measure properly. Many shocks will give extended and compressed length so some math is needed to find mid travel. Some give a mid travel range.
For the rear another option is available an adapter that allows eye mounts for the upper end so both ends would be like the bottom mount. Doing this eliminates the issue with cutting the top pin mount off to remove the shock.

So now we know what we have to do. But we won't be able to get the measurements until I get the new springs on, which I planned on having Scott do along with a ton of other suspension and chassis upgrades. The struggle is real.

[johnunit]

Looks like the AFCO's for 2nd gen Camaros work lengthwise, I'm just not sure from the pics if they have the right ends

[His Royal Ghostliness]

No, don't fill it.

The hollow bar saves weight, a cylinder is one of the strongest shapes (aside from the triangles to support bridges). You can support a high school textbook with a single sheet of notebook paper in the shape of a cylinder.

The small holes are probably for venting internal air pressure upon flexing and to allow moisture evaporation or drainage if needed.

Too rigid and it will break.

PI front and waggin' front performance is the same but waggin' is lighter.

Those are indeed drain holes, since the swaybar is made by shaping a hollow cylinder and then crushing the ends flat moisture can and does find itself inside it thru the small gap between the two layers where the end links go thru.

IMHO the hollow bar can be filled no problem, there is a swaybar out there for Thunderbirds that is like 1-1/4" diameter and it is solid and heavy as all heck! The question would be what to fill it with, and how to ensure the whole thing is filled completely - any voids will become stress riser areas once the bar is subjected to torsion during its normal operation, which can fatigue the material over long enough time, maybe to the point of cracking. Personally I probably wouldn't waste too much time on it, if a very stiff swaybar is needed there are universal straight-bar setups out there (they have splined ends with lever arms that clamp onto them, essentially one huge torsion bar) that if properly adapted to the Panther suspension would probably yield less body roll than any of the big factory setups...