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What do I need w/ Gauges

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    #16
    Sorry- I was backwards. The mechanical ones are cheaper. Don't know why I said that.
    2011 Mustang GT Premium, MT82, Kona/Saddle, HIDs, 3.73s, 19s, hood/side stripes, UPR 1.5" springs with adjustable panhard bar, and UMI solid LCAs and relocation brackets.
    1992 Explorer Eddie Bauer, slight lift, 34s, and A/C...
    1979 Bronco Custom, 351M/C6/NP205, 4" lift, 35s, lots of fender trimming.

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      #17
      Haha. I think I'm going to go witht he mech ones. Seems like you never had a problem and everyone else I kow has never had a problem with mech gauges.
      1989 LTD Crown Victoria LX.
      -3.73s' w/ Track Loc - KYB GR-2 Shocks All Around - TRW HD Cargo Coils Rear - Moog Front Coils - 1 Inch Rear Sway Bar - 4.6 Lower Air Box- Stock Headers - Off Road H Pipe - Turbo Mufflers.

      4 Door Muscle
      Supermotors

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        #18
        Originally posted by BlackHawkA4
        Haha. I think I'm going to go witht he mech ones. Seems like you never had a problem and everyone else I kow has never had a problem with mech gauges.
        you didnt forget about Black and Flames did you??? his tubing got snagged on something after he was working on it, tangle up in his steering shaft and pulled the line out... sprayed oil all over EVERYTHING!!!

        But if you insist, good luck! Dont fuck up the compression fittings, lol. My sunpro whiteface electric gauges cost me about 25 bucks each.
        You can route the oil tubing inside a piece of vacuum hose for extra security.
        Pete ::::>>> resident LED addict and CFI defector LED bulb replacements
        'LTD HPP' 85 Vic (my rusty baby) '06 Honda Reflex 250cc 'Baileys' 91 Vic (faded cream puff) ClifFord 'ODB' 88 P72 (SOLD) '77 LTDII (RIP)
        sigpic
        85HPP's most noteworthy mods: CFI to SEFI conversion w/HO upperstuff headers & flowmasters P71 airbox Towncar seats LED dash light-show center console w/5 gauge package LED 3rd brake light 3G alternator mini starter washer/coolant bottle upgrade Towncar power trunk pull underhood fuse/relay box 16" HPP wheels - police swaybars w/poly rubbers - budget Alpine driven 10 speaker stereo

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          #19
          I would go with copper tubing, the nylon is a bad idea
          Pebbles-1968 Ford F250
          Pile of Junk! An Electronics Project Site (To get wet by)<---Clicky! NEW STUFF!!!!

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            #20
            Yea, I'm going to go with the copper tubing. The fridge has a water despesner on it. It has a nylon tube. Every now and than it blows up.

            With the mechincal am I going to need anything sepcial for the oil sensor by the filter? Blaze was mentioning it was going to be too close to the block?
            1989 LTD Crown Victoria LX.
            -3.73s' w/ Track Loc - KYB GR-2 Shocks All Around - TRW HD Cargo Coils Rear - Moog Front Coils - 1 Inch Rear Sway Bar - 4.6 Lower Air Box- Stock Headers - Off Road H Pipe - Turbo Mufflers.

            4 Door Muscle
            Supermotors

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              #21
              No. I have a T on mine so I can run the stock sending unit too. I'll take a picture if I have enough charge on my camera. I had mine ON the block for a while. The electric sending units are the ones that are bulky.
              2011 Mustang GT Premium, MT82, Kona/Saddle, HIDs, 3.73s, 19s, hood/side stripes, UPR 1.5" springs with adjustable panhard bar, and UMI solid LCAs and relocation brackets.
              1992 Explorer Eddie Bauer, slight lift, 34s, and A/C...
              1979 Bronco Custom, 351M/C6/NP205, 4" lift, 35s, lots of fender trimming.

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                #22
                If it was nylon, then having it near the exhaust would be really bad, but with copper it shouldn't be a problem. Copper is easier to route too, the nylon comes wrapped, so when you unroll it, it's like working with a slinky, difficult to route
                Pebbles-1968 Ford F250
                Pile of Junk! An Electronics Project Site (To get wet by)<---Clicky! NEW STUFF!!!!

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                  #23
                  I don't know where ya'll come up with this stuff! I've installed at least half a dozen mechanical oil pressure gauges in my vehicles (and several more in other peoples' vehicles)- I've never had problems with melting, snagging, or snapping the tubing. I've never had problems routing the tubing. I've never had problems messing up the fittings.

                  Maybe I'm just lucky...
                  2011 Mustang GT Premium, MT82, Kona/Saddle, HIDs, 3.73s, 19s, hood/side stripes, UPR 1.5" springs with adjustable panhard bar, and UMI solid LCAs and relocation brackets.
                  1992 Explorer Eddie Bauer, slight lift, 34s, and A/C...
                  1979 Bronco Custom, 351M/C6/NP205, 4" lift, 35s, lots of fender trimming.

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                    #24
                    I just prefer wires to hoses, tho I might end up with mechanical guages in my car for where I want to put them. Nobody seems to make a 1.5" electric guage and thats all the bigger I can fit in the panel over the glovebox without it hanging out past the raised part.
                    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                    Originally posted by phayzer5
                    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

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