warm up?

[Brown_Muscle]

With MY VV in the winter it takes 3-5 minutes to kick down after idleing from 1300-1500 RPM...in the summer it usually take like 30 seconds...

[chitownvic]

Once the idle settles down i am on my way, unless i am in a rush.

X2

[1987cp]

I let mine sit until I see the temp gauge start to move, usually takes a minute or two. On my Silverado I have to do that or it'll stall with my carb issues

If your carb were proberly adjusted you wouldn't have that problem.

With MY VV in the winter it takes 3-5 minutes to kick down after idleing from 1300-1500 RPM...in the summer it usually take like 30 seconds...

That reminds me, I really do need to get my choke and fast idle adjusted properly. Been just kind of "whatever"-ing it the latter part of the summer, but as it continues to cool down outside it will just become increasingly unacceptable.

[gadget73]

I let it run long enough for the idle to come down at least. If I have a couple minutes in the winter, I'll let it run but thats not too often. I do keep out of the throttle until the engine comes up to temperature though. With my drive to work in the winter, it would take more time idling in my driveway to warm up than it actually takes me to get to work though, so I usually don't bother.

[88Vic]

If your carb were proberly adjusted you wouldn't have that problem.

If I weren't gonna sell it then i'd figure out how to do all that, but I have my Metro to work on right now, besides the guy i'm selling it to is gonna put in a 500cfm carb or whatever the next smaller carb in the Performer series from the 1405.

Anywho, my Metro even after it warms up the motor shakes like crazy, i'm doing a full tuneup including unclogging the injectors and i'll see if I need to adjust the timing.

[1980c10]

Usually around 5 min. or up to operating temp. Cause I have heard bad stories about driving on a cold engine causing cylinder wash down if you get heavy on the gas? I dunno if there is any truth or not but operating temp is always better then cold IMO.

[1987cp]

That is a significant risk with a carbureted engine, because the atomized fuel/air mixture has to travel all the way from the carb to the intake valves through a cold (sometimes very cold!) intake manifold, and like any suspended vapor, tends to condense on the manifold walls. This is one reason why a carb'd engine needs a much richer mixture at startup, because it needs additional fuel to compensate for the stuff that condenses on the inside of the manifold and doesn't make it into the cylinders in a nice manner. The corollary to this is, of course, that the fuel from the walls of the manifold then tends to run into the cylinder and coat the cylinder walls, which can, as you point out, wash out the oil clinging to the cylinder wall crosshatching and cause premature upper-cylinder wear.

That risk is greatly reduced on multiport fuel injected systems, as the fuel has basically the length of the intake port to travel and is sprayed in a very fine mist to start with (as opposed to dripping out of venturi boosters in what is often visible droplets). On direct injection systems, the concern is basically nonexistent.

[85crownHPP]

Now that the 85 is MPFI I just let the idle level out like others when its warm, if its close to freezing I'll usually let it idle until the temp gauge starts to move. I could drive right off if I wanted to, but I actually wanna put in a remote start before this winter so Ill have heat when i get in. Only 2 miles to work...
When it was CFI I HAD to let it warm up a couple minutes in the winter or it would just stall out when i tried to go. Good riddance to that mess...

[1987cp]

Makes sense, since CFI would be subject to the same condensation issues in a cold intake manifold that crappenators have to deal with.