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My gas mileage sucks... how about yours?
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As of now i don't have the expertise to do anything major, especially with engines and other major stuff. I'd like to learn, but i dont know anyone who knows how either, high school doesn't even have an auto shop class. All i can do is smaller repairs, and electrical type stuff. Switching engines or putting in a 4bbl would be a little out of my league. Hell, i didn't know what a 4bbl was a month ago.

1984 Grand Marquis GS - CFI-SEFI conversion, Explorer 302, GT40 intakes, GT40P heads, 1.7 roller rockers, HO Cam, ASP Underdrive Pulley, 2.5" Dual exhaust, Flowmaster Delta 50 mufflers, 3.55 Trac-Lock, Rear disk's, Moog cargo coils, ES rear poly bushings, PI front and rear sway bars, 3G alt., Mark VIII fan, custom Auto-meter dash
1990 Crown Victoria Country Squire - Explorer 302, HO cam, dual exhaust, 3.55 Trac-Lock, PI rear sway bar (SOLD)
1982 LTD Wagon (R.I.P.) -|-1984 Grand Marquis LS(R.I.P.)
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In that case, the best advice would be to get the codes pulled.Originally posted by FatNastyAs of now i don't have the expertise to do anything major, especially with engines and other major stuff. I'd like to learn, but i dont know anyone who knows how either, high school doesn't even have an auto shop class. All i can do is smaller repairs, and electrical type stuff. Switching engines or putting in a 4bbl would be a little out of my league. Hell, i didn't know what a 4bbl was a month ago.
2007 F-150 Supercab XLT 4x4
1997 Jeep Cherokee
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Have you checked the ECM For trouble codes ? Have you replaced the T/stat any time recently, 195 Degree is best for power and efficiency.
And MAF operating systems still require some sort of load or pressure sensor (baro pressure sensor) MAF Fox body Mustangs had them and most of the V8 T-birds and Cougars I have worked on have them.
all the MAF conversion kits I have seen tell you to leave the MAP sensor in place with the electrical connector hooked up, but leave the Vaccum hose OFF and let the sensor vent to outside air. The ECM uses this to measure atmospheric pressure which helps determin enging load and can fine tune A/F based on that info.2003 Town Car Signature - 3.27 RAR, Dual exhaust and J-mod - SOLD 9/2011
89 Crown Victoria LX HPP -- SOLD 9/2010
88 Grand Marquis LS - The Original -- Totaled 5/2006
I rebuild AOD/AODE/4R70W/4R75E transmissions....Check out my Facebook page: https://www.facebook.com/pages/North...48414635312478
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ECU pulled no codes. Just needlessly replaced my T-stat last week. My power problem is not a fine line of not running good and running great. It's so bad that in 1st gear the engine can't accelerate the car past 5,080rpm.
Also, like I said before, it's worked great for 6 years. Don't mean to be short or ungreatfull for the help, but I think it's a little odd to point at a "design flaw" as the cause of a problem that just started after 98,000+ miles (from ocean level to 10,000 feet high in the rocky mountains). Also, it actually was not a MAF "conversion" since the engine and ECU were both originaly MAF equiped. Next time I talk to my Dad if I remember I will ask about the BAP, but unless I have one and it has gone bad, that is not the cause of this problem.
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5k is not exactly weak for a stock SBF engine. Most of these things with an auto in stock form can't see past 4800 as thats where the trans shifts. 5k is pretty near the redline anyway, so its not like its a sign of weakness to not be able to break it. Probably shouldn't be spinning over that anyway. You also have to consider, this is an engine with nearly 100k on it. its just not as strong as it used to be. That said, 13.2 mpg is horrible. My original neglected engine got 11 and from just simple running cleared itself to 14 mpg. That was a 125k neglected, many many times overheated lopo that had been kicked in the ass steadily for almost 2 years before I got it.
Have you by chance cleaned the MAF? That seems to help sometimes. Standard method is to use electrical contact cleaner as it doesn't leave a residue and is usually plastic safe. Pull the MAF and spray down the wires, let it air dry, and re-install. Might not be a bad idea to reset the ECM too. Oxygen sensors are another wear item, if yours are original with 100k on them.86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley
91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry
1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal
Originally posted by phayzer5
I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers
Everything looks like voodoo if you don't understand how it works
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My last week's mileage is 8.93 but that's with lots of flooring while running on manifolds only (no exhaust system at all). Until then combined mileage was steady 16, with most of the freeway driving done at 85 mph and faster, while the city take-offs were exactly that - pedal to the metal on the green light. Also I had about 250lbs of stuff in the trunk, and my rear tires are much wider than stock. The car currently has a much better exhaust, only one sand bag (instead of 4), and I'm also trying to take it very easy on accelerator. And in about a month I'll be due for an oil change, which will be combined with SeaFoam-ing and installing new O2 sensors - hope that'll help bring her back in the 20+ highway mpg.
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You say it pulled no codes... what does that mean, no codes at all? or just code 11 (system pass)Originally posted by Blaze86VicECU pulled no codes. Just needlessly replaced my T-stat last week. My power problem is not a fine line of not running good and running great. It's so bad that in 1st gear the engine can't accelerate the car past 5,080rpm.
Also, like I said before, it's worked great for 6 years. Don't mean to be short or ungreatfull for the help, but I think it's a little odd to point at a "design flaw" as the cause of a problem that just started after 98,000+ miles (from ocean level to 10,000 feet high in the rocky mountains). Also, it actually was not a MAF "conversion" since the engine and ECU were both originaly MAF equiped. Next time I talk to my Dad if I remember I will ask about the BAP, but unless I have one and it has gone bad, that is not the cause of this problem.
what mode did you pull codes? KOEO, continuous or KOER?
You can have trouble codes in one mode but not in the other.
I was not Implying the lack of a BAP was your problem, only pointing out that a MAF system still needs one.2003 Town Car Signature - 3.27 RAR, Dual exhaust and J-mod - SOLD 9/2011
89 Crown Victoria LX HPP -- SOLD 9/2010
88 Grand Marquis LS - The Original -- Totaled 5/2006
I rebuild AOD/AODE/4R70W/4R75E transmissions....Check out my Facebook page: https://www.facebook.com/pages/North...48414635312478
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5500rpm was the factory redline, and most redlines are limited by valve train, not the crank flying apart. So with a fresh springs the factory redline should be no problem at all. Shift point is not my limitation. When I say can't get over 5080, I mean that holding first it can't get over 5080rpm. It's not a tired engine by far, yeah 100,000 miles, but very well maintained. Always had quality paper filters no K&Sucks on it, EVERY 3000miles comes with new oil and Motorcraft FL1-HP oil filter.
Not sure what the difference between all those modes of code pulling are. I used a STAR, the big T shaped thing to pull the codes. I always get one code for smog pump thing not being there, but no other codes.
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