Those LED strips I bought on ebay arrived today....the -/+ wires are only one strand each, though. I feel like I'm going to pull them off of there when I go to splice them in - I just don't know how to splice them in? The smallest butt splice connectors I have are 18 gauge and I don't see them holding these in there.
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connecting single strands of wire?
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connecting single strands of wire?
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- 1990 Ford LTD Crown Victoria P72 - the street boat - 5.0 liter EFI - Ported HO intake/TB, 90 TC shroud/overflow, Aero airbox/zip tube, Cobra camshaft, 19lb injectors, dual exhaust w/ Magnaflows, Cat/Smog & AC delete, 3G alternator, MOOG chassis parts & KYB cop shocks, 215/70r/15s on 95-97 Merc rims
- 2007 Ford Escape XLT - soccer mom lifted station wagon - 3.0 Duratec, auto, rear converter delete w/ Magnaflow dual exhaust
- 2008 Mercury Grand Marquis Ultimate Edition - Daily driver - 4.6 2 valve Mod motor, 4R75E, 2.73s. Bone stockTags: None
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Originally posted by gadget73There is nothing more permanent than a temporary fix.
93 F-150 XLT, 302, ZF 5-spd from 1-ton, 4wd.
Daily--07 Civic Coupe. Bone stock with 25k miles
Wife--14 Subaru Outback. 6-speed.
95 Subaru Legacy Wagon--red--STOLEN 1/6/13
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Buy yourself a soldering iron if you haven't got one already, it's the best way to make any kind of electrical connection because the resistance is less with a good solid connection. You can use electrical tape over the solder join or if you want to get all fancy, buy some thin heat shrink and use either a hair dryer or a lighter to shrink around connection.2002 Mercury Grand Marquis GS 4.6L V8, 1988 Mercury Grand Marquis GS 5.0L V8, 1979 Lincoln Mark V 6.6L V8, 1977 Lincoln Continental 7.5L V8, 1999 Chevrolet Suburban LT 5.7L V8
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I don't have any soldering gear, or any money to get it, reallysigpic
- 1990 Ford LTD Crown Victoria P72 - the street boat - 5.0 liter EFI - Ported HO intake/TB, 90 TC shroud/overflow, Aero airbox/zip tube, Cobra camshaft, 19lb injectors, dual exhaust w/ Magnaflows, Cat/Smog & AC delete, 3G alternator, MOOG chassis parts & KYB cop shocks, 215/70r/15s on 95-97 Merc rims
- 2007 Ford Escape XLT - soccer mom lifted station wagon - 3.0 Duratec, auto, rear converter delete w/ Magnaflow dual exhaust
- 2008 Mercury Grand Marquis Ultimate Edition - Daily driver - 4.6 2 valve Mod motor, 4R75E, 2.73s. Bone stock
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Irons can be had for less than $10 and solder in small lengths is a few bucks. Unless of course you really don't have 2 dimes to rub together.2002 Mercury Grand Marquis GS 4.6L V8, 1988 Mercury Grand Marquis GS 5.0L V8, 1979 Lincoln Mark V 6.6L V8, 1977 Lincoln Continental 7.5L V8, 1999 Chevrolet Suburban LT 5.7L V8
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No, I really don't for the next few days. Didn't think I would be driving as much as I was this week and burned through a shitload of gas.
EDIT: I guess I'll need to learn how to solder then, huh?Last edited by 1990LTD; 05-07-2010, 02:16 PM.sigpic
- 1990 Ford LTD Crown Victoria P72 - the street boat - 5.0 liter EFI - Ported HO intake/TB, 90 TC shroud/overflow, Aero airbox/zip tube, Cobra camshaft, 19lb injectors, dual exhaust w/ Magnaflows, Cat/Smog & AC delete, 3G alternator, MOOG chassis parts & KYB cop shocks, 215/70r/15s on 95-97 Merc rims
- 2007 Ford Escape XLT - soccer mom lifted station wagon - 3.0 Duratec, auto, rear converter delete w/ Magnaflow dual exhaust
- 2008 Mercury Grand Marquis Ultimate Edition - Daily driver - 4.6 2 valve Mod motor, 4R75E, 2.73s. Bone stock
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It's not difficult at all. The key to a good solder joint is heat. You need to get the wires nice and hot so the solder flows and cools properly. Not enought heat and you could end up with a cold solder joint which will either break the moment you move the wire or will fail over time. I usually 'tin' each wire with solder first, then twist the wires together and heat the wires while adding a little more solder. Once it has cooled it should remain trouble free for many years.2002 Mercury Grand Marquis GS 4.6L V8, 1988 Mercury Grand Marquis GS 5.0L V8, 1979 Lincoln Mark V 6.6L V8, 1977 Lincoln Continental 7.5L V8, 1999 Chevrolet Suburban LT 5.7L V8
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Tip #1 for the begginer: Melt a bit (not a blob) of solder onto the tip BEFORE trying to heat the wires. The melted solder will form around your wire and heat it up quicker so you can tin and solder it easier.
Practice with scrap wire and circuit boards to get a feel for it. Remove components (two or three legged ones) without breaking them. You'll destroy a few at first, but then it'll become second nature.
Alex.
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Is there a way to connect these wires to other, bigger ones without soldering? I have free time and was hoping to get some of this doneLast edited by 1990LTD; 05-07-2010, 07:40 PM.sigpic
- 1990 Ford LTD Crown Victoria P72 - the street boat - 5.0 liter EFI - Ported HO intake/TB, 90 TC shroud/overflow, Aero airbox/zip tube, Cobra camshaft, 19lb injectors, dual exhaust w/ Magnaflows, Cat/Smog & AC delete, 3G alternator, MOOG chassis parts & KYB cop shocks, 215/70r/15s on 95-97 Merc rims
- 2007 Ford Escape XLT - soccer mom lifted station wagon - 3.0 Duratec, auto, rear converter delete w/ Magnaflow dual exhaust
- 2008 Mercury Grand Marquis Ultimate Edition - Daily driver - 4.6 2 valve Mod motor, 4R75E, 2.73s. Bone stock
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Single strand? not really. You're never going to get that to crimp into anything.86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley
91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry
1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal
Originally posted by phayzer5
I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers
Everything looks like voodoo if you don't understand how it works
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You don't need a super great connection for LED things... i usually just fold the wire back over the insulation and crimp the insulation and all in that situation. I've seen a lot of OE crimps done that way.Pete ::::>>> resident LED addict and CFI defector LED bulb replacements
'LTD HPP' 85 Vic (my rusty baby) '06 Honda Reflex 250cc 'Baileys' 91 Vic (faded cream puff) ClifFord 'ODB' 88 P72 (SOLD) '77 LTDII (RIP)
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85HPP's most noteworthy mods: CFI to SEFI conversion w/HO upperstuff headers & flowmasters P71 airbox Towncar seats LED dash light-show center console w/5 gauge package LED 3rd brake light 3G alternator mini starter washer/coolant bottle upgrade Towncar power trunk pull underhood fuse/relay box 16" HPP wheels - police swaybars w/poly rubbers - budget Alpine driven 10 speaker stereo
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Originally posted by 85crownHPP View PostYou don't need a super great connection for LED things... i usually just fold the wire back over the insulation and crimp the insulation and all in that situation. I've seen a lot of OE crimps done that way.
Noted.
thanks fellas.sigpic
- 1990 Ford LTD Crown Victoria P72 - the street boat - 5.0 liter EFI - Ported HO intake/TB, 90 TC shroud/overflow, Aero airbox/zip tube, Cobra camshaft, 19lb injectors, dual exhaust w/ Magnaflows, Cat/Smog & AC delete, 3G alternator, MOOG chassis parts & KYB cop shocks, 215/70r/15s on 95-97 Merc rims
- 2007 Ford Escape XLT - soccer mom lifted station wagon - 3.0 Duratec, auto, rear converter delete w/ Magnaflow dual exhaust
- 2008 Mercury Grand Marquis Ultimate Edition - Daily driver - 4.6 2 valve Mod motor, 4R75E, 2.73s. Bone stock
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