1982 Ford LTD-S 351W Police Car

[johnunit]

I did it by hand, but yeah I pretty much cranked until my arm got sore or I got bored, then came back to it and cranked it down more. no torque spec, just giv'er.


If you REALLY can't get the leaks out, consider rotating the pipes and stuff, I've been able to get a better seal by re-positioning the piping so they meet better at the flange.



I'm curious about the code stuff. I have to admit I didn't even know you could pull codes on a VV car. If it continues to give a consistent lean code, that'd lend creedence to my theory of the carb not being able to compensate for the free-flowing exhaust. I hope for your sake that that's not the case.

[85crownHPP]

I got my ball flanges good and snug, then tightened them up with the car running until the "pfft pfft pfft" sound went away

[Brown_Muscle]

John-If you want the procedure on pulling codes i can send it to you, however i know your going 4 BBL soon so that won't matter...(i'm looking forward to see how you do with that).

I'll tighten um up some more, run the car and if any are leaking i'll do like you did Pete, haha.

[packman]

Most exhaust systems that I have put up need to be re-tightened periodically. This includes the headers. I generally tighten them once a week for a month; then once every month until nothing loosens up. Then ocassionally I would tighten up all the bolts to see what's up. By that time, things have begun to rust and set into place. Do you get that backfire when you slow down? I miss that with my Malibu. The CV doesn't (or won't) do that.



Packman

[Brown_Muscle]

The exhaust does "Pop" on decel, never had it backfire thankfully. Drove it today...no driveability problems whatsoever, however i only took it around the block half a dozen times. It seems a little torquier, but it's hard to tell as i couldn't go above 30. I also put in a new trans mount as i was in that area and had ordered one for cheap.

Overall it sounds good, a bit more droney, idle sounds sick, real deep and definitive. On acceleration however, it doesn't have the definitive pulses like it used to...which is disappointing, I'm hoping it just needs to get "broken in" aka carbon buildup on the pipes and such. We shall see.

I may take it to inspection soon, especially if it is running lean i may have a better chance of it passing, especially since they don't check for NOx anymore.

[Brown_Muscle]

UPDATE!!

I performed some more tests, including doing a running test about 6 times on it... It gave me several codes but more often then not it was code 42, FUEL ALWAYS RICH. I also got a sporadic thermactor code, and once a lean code again for whatever reason. I tested the mixture stepper motor in the carb, wiring, and mcu. Turns out the motor would move outwards when the key was turned on (As it should), click a few times, and then never retract when the key was turned off (which it should have).

Since it was stuck in the extended position it was limiting the air that could go into the carb, running it rich. I ordered a new motorcraft one for $10 shipped (Aftermarket ones were 85 bux!) This should fix my emissions problem, and i should get better gas milage and maybe some power back as well! I'll let you know how it goes, looks like i won't be getting the part until next week though.

*edit* also this game me a good excuse to replace my exhaust system regardless, as it badly needed it.

[johnunit]

very interesting. Hope it works out.

[packman]

Were you able to work out the codes? In any event I hope you're having fun with the upgrade. Perhaps you can save up for another DD if you don't already have one; that way you can get classic plates for that CV and not have to worry about those pesky inspections.


Packman

[Brown_Muscle]

replaced the stepper motor...readjusted the accelerator pump preload to spec. Still have a rich code. Also code 25 was not for the thermactor (they have a wierd number system for the diagnosis) Turns out it's a code for the knock sensor, so i went to test it and it broke in two when i tried to remove the wire harness. So looks like I'll be getting another one of those....

Could a bad knock sensor cause a rich condition? (ignore the fact that this is a VV with EEC-II) Just toying with the idea, i read in more advanced obd-ii systems it can cause it to run rich in some cases. I can't picture it doing so in this situation but who knows...

[Brown_Muscle]

PASSED EMISSIONS!
I opened up a vacuum line to suck in extra air, the RICH code disappeared. I went to inspection and passed, thankfully. I still have no knock sensor however, and based on the tests i did it is saying the MCU is actually at fault. Must just be the knock sensor circuit, or it doesn't like the tests i'm doing, because the rest of the MCU tested just fine. We shall see...for now however I am once again street legal!

Also the LTD definitely has more kick in the pants, pretty pleased with that. There are still some exhaust leaks I'm trying to take care of, despite torquing down the headers =/

[johnunit]

nice that it's working out for you. Hope you get the rich condition sorted out.


Be careful about the knock sensor. I've heard from a few people that the unmodified timing curve is VERY aggressive, and is only prevented from detonating the engine to death by the computer chopping off the curve at the top. If you were to reset the computer and not have the knock sensor to tell the computer when it needed to pull timing.....

[Brown_Muscle]

New knock sensor, and window guide bushings are on the way!

Today I finally got around to adjusting the TV rod pressure, as i suspected it was off, since the rod was not even contacting the plate that pushes it back on the carb. The instructions found on this site: http://www.txchange.com/aodadj.htm for the rod (the last instruction) is, however, incorrect for my application. The first step with someone pushing the gas pedal down all the way makes it impossible to reach any of the adjusting screws, and even if you could, the adjustment screw can't even be turned out so that 13 threads are showing...so i went right to the trans and moved the rod up a bit. Took it for a test drive, made some adjustment up at the carb side and the results are amazing!

Originally under light throttle there was occasional slippage, shuffle, and low shift points.
Approximate Original shift points under light (normal) throttle:
1-2 15mph
2-3 25mph
3-4 35mph

Especially in 1st to second it was lugging the engine when it shifted and i had to push it harder then I'd like in order to hold a gear.

Revised shift points (approximate with light/normal throttle)
1-2 22mph
2-3 35mph
3-4 47-50mph

I'm extremely please with these results, the car feels completely different (in a good way) and it is far more responsive.

Next I can't seem to get rid of these annoying exhaust manifold leaks (i confirmed it's the manifold by listening up top and down below at all different points with a hose)
I fear that i will have to take them off, clean the surfaces more thoroughly, and install new gaskets. They are as tight as they are going to get

[johnunit]

Your after numbers sound very in line with mine. Maybe a hair earlier, but if anything I'd make mine shift earlier.

[Brown_Muscle]

Haven't updated this in a while...LTD has been sitting in the garage until today haha.

Took the headers off completely and found them to be warped...contacting summit, if that fails off i go to a machine shop...

I also took tore apart the VV carb to begin rebuilding it, in an attempt to fix the running rich problem. Most of the O-rings look good, the gaskets fell into a million pieces when i took it apart...needle valve is a little worn. I was expecting something more dramatic causing the rich condition, like a cracked main jet O-ring... hopefully this will solve the problem though, at the very least it will eliminate one more thing!

[86VickyLX]

I can see where this is going to lead. May I suggest a nice 2 or 4 barrel carb?