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**Blaze86Vic** · 05-11-2006, 09:15 PM

Yep, they should. They are replacement headers...but I dunno. I read one review that said it required a little tweeking, but that could be an idiot with an aftermarket H pipe or something. I don't have to worry because I have true duals. So having to move pipes a little is littraly nothing.

**85crownHPP** · 05-14-2006, 09:17 PM

I was just now reading the previous update and thinking 'those stock headders need to go!" and look what the next update is.

nice!!!!!!!!

**Blaze86Vic** · 05-30-2006, 11:08 PM

FINALY!! An update worth mentioning! I installed my 925lb/in springs this past weekend. Went in quick and easy. Hears is down low. These springs are replacing stock civilian springs with about 7 years of use on them. The new springs have a 925lb/in rate, and are 12" tall un-installed. The change in ride height is almost exactly 1-1/8" lower. The ride is much more feeling, but not abusive. A worthy upgrade for an almost race feel. For you race guys, I'd suggest a 1000lb/in or 1150lb/in (road course racers, not drag racers). Well below are pics of the install and comparison in ride height.

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**monterey1962** · 05-30-2006, 11:12 PM

Holy cow! That really gave it a mean stance. Looks great, man.

**zwack88** · 05-30-2006, 11:17 PM

Wow! That looks great! Man I want some for the vic but that would be way to much rake with those cargo coils. Love that stance.

**gadget73** · 05-31-2006, 01:45 AM

Surprising you don't think they're too much. I almost think my stock 1998 Grand Marquis springs are too harsh. They're settling in now and its OK but I wouldn't want any more spring rate. I would kinda like the front end to be a smidge lower though. The stance looks nice tho.

**Grand Marquis GT** · 05-31-2006, 02:10 AM

Wow, that looks great! Kinda glad you did keep em now

I am probably going to run about 1000+...

**beep_beep** · 05-31-2006, 11:08 AM

are those brand new lowering springs? and where did you get them at? i didnt know that they made lowering springs for CV's

**Blaze86Vic** · 05-31-2006, 11:26 AM

Indeed they are brand new. Now that I have the front lowered I can figure out whith one is correct for lowering the rear about the same.

Here is a link to where I got them and the other springs rates. This is the weakest one they sell, so the higher rate you go, the less of a drop you will get.

Front springs
Speedwaymotors.com Linky

In the near future I also plan to get new rear springs as well.
Speedwaymotors.com Linky

I put together an animation showing the drop difference in the front. It's a 3mb .gif, so give it a second to load. Not exactly the same angle, but if you pay attention to the front tire and the distance between it and the fender you get the idea.

**Blaze86Vic** · 06-01-2006, 11:00 PM

So I did a full clean, wash and detail. Didn't clean my wheels because I plan to take them off and clean and polish them later. So I went and took some new pics, hope yall enjoy!

Here are all the full resolution versions

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**zwack88** · 06-01-2006, 11:11 PM

WOW! That is all I can say. Speechless.

**88Vic** · 06-10-2006, 06:20 PM

You have the best box on this site. A GT40 intake would be badass on it, but still awesome without. All I would do with it would be tint the windows. Other than that it'd be perfect for me. I'm just working on gettin a dual exhaust.

**Blaze86Vic** · 06-11-2006, 08:46 PM

After 2 and 1/2 months, I have finaly finished my custome gauge install into a factory 140mph speedometer. You may notice some purple color in some of the night shots, well there was purple. So I sent both of them back to Autometer because the water temp gauge didn't work, and the oil pressure was purple. They happily and without any fuss replaced both with brand new ones, and did not just send the gauges alone back, but supplied all new install kit as well. So I have extra install parts for both, inclusing a second temp sensor! So on with the write up as I try to always do.

Below we have the raw parts, a factory 140mph speedometer, a brand new Autometer electric Water Temp gauge and mechanical Oil Pressure gauge, both in Cobalt style!.

First mod, break the speedometer needle stop off. As you can see without removing it you will never be able to go over 135mph LOL! This was done to my old 140mph speedometer as well.

I used a 2" hole saw and a drill press to drill the holes for the gauges. The press is needed because you have to be perfectly steady to make a clean hole. I assembled the entire cluster, minus the fuel gauge and circuit sheet, and then drilled the holes. That way all the pieces lined up perfect. You have to go very slow! If you go too fast some of the smaller pieces that you go through will break and leave unwanted holes. I then cleaned the holes up till the gauges fit perfectly.

This last pic is rather large, so I linked it to a full size version. This image shows what needs to be cut out of the circuit I removed both the red and blue areas. The red areas are dedicated to the 4 idiot lights, which is where I am placing these gauges. And except for a volt gauge, these gauges also replace the idiot lights...and I guess I also don't have a check engine light, not like I care though LOL. The blue area, not sure what it's for. Mine were not used and neither were the ones in this cluster. But maybe yours will use it. So that's all the circuit mods needed. I used the capacitor screw to hold down my ground wire, and just tapped off of the 12V key power, and 12V dash light power from the wiring harness that goes into the cluster.

Yes there was som cutting behind the cluster in the dash. Has to cut out wholes for the wires and pressure line to go through. I ended up making a little bridge for the masside wireing harness, because it was in the way of the oil pressure line. But with some commen sense and care, it's not much to do. A little dremel action and vuala! And finaly some completed pics! Enjoy!!!

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