Only way I've had luck at keeping crimpy connectors together is to use my big crimp tool to get good leverage on it. Small crimp tools I can never get enough pressure on to hold properly. I bought a big wire crimping tool from harbor freight for like 6 bucks. It does nothing else but smash the hell out of those connectors, but they don't come apart afterward.
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Okay Dokie Pt II
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86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley
91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry
1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal
Originally posted by phayzer5
I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers
Everything looks like voodoo if you don't understand how it works
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Looks like i have another item to get at harbor freight whenever i make that road trip.
I ask due to the other day right when i put the new module on secound time i tried to crank she didnt want to crank. Turned out to be a wire came loose from a spade connector.
Gadget i never have good luck with connectors either. I crimp and crimp and crimp. And they will still come loose.
Ok. So my list is.
Proper size spade connectors.
solder.
Big crimp tool.
Shrink tube.
Yup. That should be a good hour or two of a day doing all that hehe. ( Doing it right. )People should not be afraid of their governments. Governments should be afraid of their people.
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Just done the smoke test. Found one vacume leak look like it would be a bigun.
It's leaking where the big hose meats the small hose ( Connector ) for the coffee pot The connector it's self isnt leaking just around it where the big hose joins it. So that means i need a new hose yes?
Also i think i member a whille back Gadget mang saying something about some vacuumed sealers. not 100% sure. That go around the fittings? Although i might be confused about this.
I also got tru reading my book.( On the 1406 carb) And still have no heads nor tails on where to go with tuning it. I understand i need to get my vacuum leak fixed first. but eh.
I also cant seem to get up with any of the tuners around here local so im calling aPeople should not be afraid of their governments. Governments should be afraid of their people.
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Ah. Found another vacume leak rather big one to i might add...
PCV valve the cap that goes on the big side ( I dont have a hose that will go to that side only the small one. ) Anyways i looked at it said wth? why are these cracks in it. took it off. looked damn thing was cracked straight in half.. Major vac leak. Anyways sure nuff made her drive better still is becoming unresponsive but not as bad.
People should not be afraid of their governments. Governments should be afraid of their people.
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Yeah fix the leaks, If its just leaking right at the end of the hose, you may be able to cut the end off so you're into un-stretched rubber and connect it back together. Hard to say without looking at it.
As far as tuning, once you get the leaks fixed, you'll have to read the plugs and see what they have to tell you. Without at least that, its anyone's guess where it needs to go. It might even be fine where it is, who knows86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley
91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry
1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal
Originally posted by phayzer5
I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers
Everything looks like voodoo if you don't understand how it works
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Ok, great idea. If i cant stop the vac leak the way ure talking ill try to take a pic of that hose and where it connects to.
( Actualy thinking it might be to big of a hose but i dunno. )
I dunno why i didnt think about the spark plugs and looking at them untill you just mentioned it. I actualy think Nate mang was telling me something about that as well...
Yea i fill like a dumb ass right now.People should not be afraid of their governments. Governments should be afraid of their people.
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Mkay. fixed them last two ( that i know of ) vacume leaks. Hoses where good just well preety much i just swaped them around...
And car rides better. Buuut still at WOT pedal to the meteal it will quit respounding. But along with that now. It want's to buck. kick. etc. jerk maybey the right word? Kinda like a newb on a clutch?
Also i was reading in my manual agine. and glaced over one more time on one section and something came to my attention. On Pages 13 and 14 it speaks of power mode and cruise mode. Anyways the word's are Surge and Flatspot. I really am not 100% sure what a Surge on a car is. And have no damn idea what a flat spot is... besides with land.
Anyways on page 14 it speaks of how to try and fix it with the springs. Basicly saying to try to start with the highest rated spring and work your way back down. untill it presist. Then go back up One. So im guessing you would start with the plane 8" one and work back down to blue 3 inch. these are "step up springs" aRE these the same springs which are with the metering rods?
Yall know im a noob with carbs :-s hehehe. So all advise is welcome.People should not be afraid of their governments. Governments should be afraid of their people.
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I wouldn't adjust the carb until you are for sure all the leaks are found. Then make sure your timing is good. I'd advance it as much as possible without knocking and then adjust your screws for the highest vaccuum reading if you have that guage. The carb you have should work fine without switching rods and such.Chris - A 20th Century Man \m/ ^.^ \m/
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Sounds like its going lean at full throttle, either from needing to be tuned, or the fuel pump can't keep up.86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley
91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry
1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal
Originally posted by phayzer5
I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers
Everything looks like voodoo if you don't understand how it works
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The two posts above me give good advice, and I too should probably follow it. Fix the vac leaks before you touch the carb. A vacuum leak could be part of the reason it may be going lean under WOT. My car is lean under light/ partial throttle, and it tends to stumble slightly at take off (which I rectified slightly by adjusting the setting on the accel. pump). If it is unresponsive under WOT, and occasionally stumbles (or jerks), it sounds like it is lean. It needs more fuel, which may require carb tuning. But, first make sure that a vacuum leak isn't allowing excess air in, causing the engine to run lean.
Did you spray carb cleaner around the base of the carb, with the engine running? That revealed a significant vacuum leak on my car (which I took care of a while ago). However, it still seems to me that there is a slight leak, as the vacuum fluctuates at idle, and it sounds as if the engine is "hunting". Its almost like the A/C compressor is kicking on and off (loading/ unloading the engine), but the A/C compressor is unplugged at the moment.
I am going to make sure that I don't have any vacuum leaks before I start to play with the carb. If I richen it up now, and find a vac. leak down the road (and fix it), then the engine will be rich.**1976 Ford F-150 4WD: 360, 4 spd, 3.50s, factory A/C, 4" lift, Bilsteins, US Indy Mags, 35s Cruiser
**2004 F-150 XLT 4WD RCLB: 4.6/ 4R70, 3.55, 90K Daily Driver
**2012 Ford Mustang Boss 302: 5.0/ 6 spd/ 3.73s, 20K Cruiser
**2012 Harley Davidson Wide Glide (FXDWG):103/ Cobra Speedsters/ Cosmetics, 9K Poseur HD Rider
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Good pointers indeed.
I have one more question ( For now ) reguarding this. On may way home today i membered how i have two made in china plugs.
So the question is. What will two bad plugs do? Might it be something simulare to what i am having?People should not be afraid of their governments. Governments should be afraid of their people.
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Usually if the plug is bad, it'll randomly miss on a cylinder or two. My China plugs run OK, though lately I have noticed some uneven idle habits, so I'll have to pull them and see whats going on.86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley
91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry
1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal
Originally posted by phayzer5
I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers
Everything looks like voodoo if you don't understand how it works
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Ok, both plugs i suspected of being bad as they where made in china where. One looked more black then the other.
Anyways. that didnt eleiminate it. Next i will check for more vac leaks with i dunno something flamable. I have PB blaster. Question about it though. Will it eat tru rubber/paint?People should not be afraid of their governments. Governments should be afraid of their people.
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Well, I used a ton of both. and i herd no surging of the idle. So im going to assume no vac leaks.
I will check the timing one more time in the am. or when ever.
After thaT Im going to drop the tank and re look at my sump. This time however i will have rampswee.
Anyways.
Hey, on one of my plugs that i pulled it smelt sweet. And the top of it was white bottom side was black as coal.
? Any signs of anything?People should not be afraid of their governments. Governments should be afraid of their people.
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