MyGrandMarquis - Burgundy '83 coupe

[85crownHPP]

If you do get rid of those gauges, I'll give you 50 dolla for them and the sensors

[85crownHPP]

PS

If backup lights got tapped for the mirrors, trace back to his splice as suggested, its possible the rest of the circuit got left open. Also check for a blown fuse. A big connector for the transmission wiring harness is near the transmission dipstick, you can check for backup light power in and out there as well as at the switch itself.

[Midnight Drifter]

If you do get rid of those gauges, I'll give you 50 dolla for them and the sensors

$55.60 to account for USPS flat rate shipping and sales tax and you've got yourself a deal, once I'm ready to part with them. I honestly can't stand that 'high tech' look, I'd much sooner throw in some Sport comp II's. :3

Here's a silly question, how could I manually test the neutral safety switch? Using a multimeter...?

[86VickyLX]

Mods, can somebody please correct the thread title to 83 instead of '82 so the poor folks don't keep thinking I'm carburated?

Matt: How are the LED tri-gauges set up?

All get 12 volt switched from biggy backing on the circuit breaker for the windshield wipers, they have a dedicated ground somewhere back in the dash. The wires for the sending units for the oil pressure and coolant temperature run out through some hole in the firewall to their respective sending units.
And come look at my car and I'll show you a non rotted frame.

[86VickyLX]

$55.60 to account for USPS flat rate shipping and sales tax and you've got yourself a deal, once I'm ready to part with them. I honestly can't stand that 'high tech' look, I'd much sooner throw in some Sport comp II's. :3

Here's a silly question, how could I manually test the neutral safety switch? Using a multimeter...?

I doubt you're gonna get meter leads down to the nss in the car. If you take it out on the other hand, you should be able to check it out. You'll need a pinout for the NSS. Let me see if I can find you one.

[Midnight Drifter]

That's what I was alluding to; unscrewing the NNS and testing it separate from the car. =3

[86VickyLX]

I just stumbled on a power supply thing.

So the back up lights get power from a switched fuse that also powers the turn signal flasher. Just something to look at after you test the switch.

The Neutral safety switch has 4 terminals on it. It also has a locating pin in the middle which is shaped like an old key hole, or skull. Turn the switch upside down so that the jaw portion of the switch is facing up. Now look on the left side of the of the skull. Those two are the back up pins. Check for continuity when you put the switch into reverse. The other two pins should have continuity when you put it in park, or neutral.
If the switch checks out, then I'd be willing to bet your issue is at the fuse box, or somewhere from the turn signal flasher to the NSS. The wiring is like follows. There's a wire (Purple with orange hashes) that comes from the fuse panel position $5. That powers the turnsignal flasher, and the reverse wire. The wire goes from position 5, to one of the terminals at the turn signal flasher. From there, it splices at the terminal and goes to the neutral safety switch. Then after going through the neutral safety switch it is a black wire, with a pink stripe, which comes back through the car and back to the reverse lights.
Btw, if he gave you the EVTM along with the car, this should all be on page 63 of that manual.

[Midnight Drifter]

Funny you mention turn signal flasher, because while my regular turn signals work, my hazards were DOA. Could the two be linked?

I'm guessing I can figure out which fuse it is in the shop manual. Thursday's going to be a fun day of diagnosis.

[86VickyLX]

Separate flasher. That's on the opposite side of the fuse box. The two aren't connected.

[Midnight Drifter]

I was afraid you'd tell me that. Sigh, another issue that needs to be addressed.

Matt, I have just one question for you. Instead of spending so much money and time investing in things like car alarms, LED lighting and fancy one-touch mirrors, why didn't you address prevalent concerns with the vehicle's operating condition? Honestly, I could do without a lot of what the car has - save maybe for the dual exhaust. It's alright though - I still want to restore this car within reasonable means. It's the cleanest NE '83 coupe I'm likely to find.

[86VickyLX]

I was afraid you'd tell me that. Sigh, another issue that needs to be addressed.

Matt, I have just one question for you. Instead of spending so much money and time investing in things like car alarms, LED lighting and fancy one-touch mirrors, why didn't you address prevalent concerns with the vehicle's operating condition? Honestly, I could do without a lot of what the car has - save maybe for the dual exhaust. It's alright though - I still want to restore this car within reasonable means. It's the cleanest NE '83 coupe I'm likely to find.

We're talking about Matt here. The hazard light flasher isn't too bad, unscrew the fuse box from the dash, push it in, turn it about 90 degrees. Pull flasher, replace.

[1987cp]

I'd suggest that the neutral safety switch is very difficult to bench-test, because it operates by sticking a plunger in a bunch of different positions as a cam thingy inside the transmission moves. So there are two positions for "starter worky" (corresponding to "P" and "N"), and of course one for reverse lights. Who cares about obtaining a pinout diagram for a four-conductor plug; as long as you get continuity across one pair of pins in P and N and across the other pair of pins in R, you should be good.

Obviously, one where the plunger sticks is FUBAR and needs replacing. $35ish hurts a little, but I'll eventually be needing one too ....

If your NSS is shot and you don't have the time or the $35 right now, just connect a jumper lead to the starter solenoid bypassing the safety switch, and be VERY careful backing up in the dark.

[86VickyLX]

I'd suggest that the neutral safety switch is very difficult to bench-test, because it operates by sticking a plunger in a bunch of different positions as a cam thingy inside the transmission moves. So there are two positions for "starter worky" (corresponding to "P" and "N"), and of course one for reverse lights. Who cares about obtaining a pinout diagram for a four-conductor plug; as long as you get continuity across one pair of pins in P and N and across the other pair of pins in R, you should be good.

Obviously, one where the plunger sticks is FUBAR and needs replacing. $35ish hurts a little, but I'll eventually be needing one too ....

Removes the chance of misdiagnosing the switch for one.
I don't remember that car starting in any other gear than park or neutral so idk.

[Midnight Drifter]

I'm a little lost... are we on the same page?

The car goes into reverse just fine, no need to jump anything. Just, no reverse lights.

Edit: OH, that's what you mean by safety switch. Uh, yeah, if I stall it in drive (which is easier to do than it sounds) I gotta pop 'er into neutral to crank the engine. But still, no reverse lights.

[1987cp]

I don't see any chance of confusion when there are only four leads and you know what the switch is supposed to accomplish, but if makes you feel better ...

I thought the usual problem was the car NOT starting (thus my experience with the jumper routine) - the issue you suggest could easily go unnoticed for many years.