Insane Idea - 460 CID (Now 351w options)

[Mike_Windsor]

I'll presume that means than 418 is more or less okay.

[Mr.Blue]

My buddy David had woody build him a 418 but he ended up selling it before he installed it............lady dropped it into a '67-70 cougar.........car has run in the high 10's..............

http://www.fordstrokers.com/fordstrokers-liberator-short-blocks/

And here's where it went.................

http://sbftech.com/index.php/topic,35628.0.html

You arent honestly going to be able to tell the difference in 10 cubes at that power level...............

I'd also add that any mod you do IMHO is going to feel sluggish with 2.73's in the back..............regardless of the supposed 3.50 gear you were told you "possibly" had.........

[Mike_Windsor]

I was trying to post this using the proper spacing but it's apparently not possible.


PARTS LIST - 418 CI WINDSOR
ITEM SOURCE PART NO COST
351 block: junkyard none $100
Crankshaft: Eagle 435141006200 $495
Rods: Eagle CRS6200B3D $375
Pistons: Wiseco custom $695
Rings: Wiseco Custom $85
Main bearings: Federal Mogul 130M $55
Rod Bearings: Clevite CB633H $55
Cam Bearings: Clevite SH510S $15
Camshaft: COMP custom $225
Timing chain: Ford Motorsport {M}-6268-A302 $65
Lifters: COMP 838-16 $330
Pushrods: COMP 7956-16 $125
Rockers: Probe 11313 $500
Heads: AFR 1451 $1899
Head gaskets: Fel-Pro 1133 $150
Head bolts: ARP 154-3603 $54.50
Oil pump drive: ARP 154-7901 $16.75
Damper bolt: ARP 150-2501 $18.75
Oil pump bolt: ARP 150-6901 $6.50
Cam bolts: ARP 254-1001 $5.00
Intake manifold: Edelbrock 2924 $280
Intake gasket: Fel-Pro 1262 $19.25
Oil pan: Canton 15-694 $275
Oil pump pickup: Canton 15-695 $47.50
Dipstick: Canton 20-{{{850}}} $22.50
Oil pump: Melling 10833 $47.75
Timing cover: HKE custom $92.50
Damper: Prof. Products 90007 $190
Carburetor: Holley 80514 $750
Distributor: MSD 8584 $225
Plug wires: MSD 31389 $75
Water pump: Moroso 63585 $260

Machine Shop Labor
Operation: Source: Cost:
Bore/hone: HKE $225
Line hone: HKE $125
Clearancing: HKE $100
Balancing: HKE $150


Grand Total: $8,155

[Mike_Windsor]

My buddy David had woody build him a 418 but he ended up selling it before he installed it............lady dropped it into a '67-70 cougar.........car has run in the high 10's..............

http://www.fordstrokers.com/fordstrokers-liberator-short-blocks/

And here's where it went.................

http://sbftech.com/index.php/topic,35628.0.html

You arent honestly going to be able to tell the difference in 10 cubes at that power level...............

I'd also add that any mod you do IMHO is going to feel sluggish with 2.73's in the back..............regardless of the supposed 3.50 gear you were told you "possibly" had.........

I intend to roll with the 3.73" gears.

[VicCrownVic]

For getting out of snow and mud it will help if your rear end does not have an open differential. If the sticker on your driver door is still readable there should be a code that say "AX" and the number or letter under that "AX" will tell you what rear gear ratio and differential type the car was built with. If someone has ever changed the rear axle there may be a metal tag on one of the bolts that holds the cover on the rear differential that will tell you exactly what you have for gear ratio and differential type.
If your mechanic says 3.50 I'm guessing he may have put the car on a lift, put it in neutral and spun the drive shaft to determine that number based on the revolutions of the drive shaft versus the tires. If you do have 3.55 I would agree that moving up to 3.73 would be more work/money than it's worth. At the end of the day it is your car so if 3.73 is what you want I'm not trying to tell you not to do it.

Knowing what the rear gear ratio is and if the rear differential is open or limited slip will be beneficial in deciding what to do with the rear end. If it is 3.55 limited slip I would leave it as is, although I believe there are clutches in the limited slip differential that could warrant a rebuild of the rear end.

That's about the extent of my limited knowledge.

[Mike_Windsor]

I just realized I had a build sheet for the car, and after a quick consultation I do indeed have 2.73" gear ratio.

So, going to 3.55" minimum will be necessary for this, right?

For that matter, I might as well go the distance and put in a Posi-Trak differential with the gear upgrade.

[VicCrownVic]

As long as the car still has the 2.73 gear ratio I would upgrade to at least 3.55 if it were me. I do a lot of city driving so if I ever get the chance to modify the rear end in my 91 MGM I very well may go with 3.73, but that's assuming I still have the 91 by the time I can afford to have that kind of fun with it. For now I've got 2.73 open diff with great highway mileage and terrible city mileage.

For getting out of mud/snow you definitely want limited slip/Posi-Trak differential regardless of what gear ratio you go with.

[Mike_Windsor]

Thank you.

[phayzer5]

Find a k-code axle on a box ford in the junkyard and swap it in. That and a wide-ratio AOD is all you will ever need.

[Mike_Windsor]

A wide ratio AOD as opposed to the stock AOD?

[Mike_Windsor]

Also, what on earth is a K-code axle?

[VicCrownVic]

K is the code that will be on the door sticker on the driver's door under the "AX" code. It represents a 3.55 limited slip rear end. The metal tag on the differential should say 3L55, if the tag is still there.

The metal tag on the diff will say 3 55 if it is an open diff and the "AX" code will be 2 instead of K.

[Bobcat]

Do not put gears in it and not put a limited slip in.. That'd be your biggest mistake.

You'd have one tire fire.

It's not fun. You don't go anywhere. I'm experiencing it.

[Mike_Windsor]

Do not put gears in it and not put a limited slip in.. That'd be your biggest mistake.

You'd have one tire fire.

It's not fun. You don't go anywhere. I'm experiencing it.

Could you be more specific?

[Mr.Blue]

I'd add that a used 28 spline trac-lok should not be hard to find and basically cheap...........a clutch n steels kit will run you around $70/90 and you can rebuild it yourself (the trac-lok)...........used 3.73's are around $75-100...........i run 4.30's in my DD and have run 4 series gears in my DD's for the last 15 years at least, i drive roughly 20-25 miles both ways to work with some interstate..........i personally consider 3.73 the minimum when going form 2.73/3.08/3,27 unless its a turbo, blower car or you're a topend nut trying to get a ticket everytime you drive................

4R is a better tranny strenghtwise and performance wise but again money money money...................

AOD:
1st. 2.40 2nd. 1.467 3rd. 1.00 OD .66

4R:
2.84/1.55/1.00/.70


Gears, exhuast, intake, carb and see where you're at...............you may be happy with just those mods,,,,,,,,,,,,,