have you verified that the mechanical advance works properly? If its not doing it's thing, that might be the haze on acceleration. Spark needs to happen earlier as engine RPM increases or it won't burn efficiently.
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86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley
91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry
1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal
Originally posted by phayzer5
I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers -
As mentioned in WAYWO, this car and its engine bay got a quick spray-down with a turbo nozzle on a power washer. Looks a little less sad without the layer of dirt.
Organizing stuff in the garage, I stumbled upon a project for this car that I haven't gotten to yet.
The '83 has crank-operated vent windows. The cranks are large round knobs.
A bunch of years ago in a junkyard, I found a '68 Continental with small cranks that look like window cranks for its vent windows.
I took those with the intent of retrofitting them onto my '83, and tonight I found the pair of cranks.
Unfortunately, the Panther crank knob has a long snout to reach the recessed splined shaft to operate the window, and the 1968 parts do not, so they can't be used.
Fuel system issues mentioned recently in the thread are not resolved and I'm hoping to deal with those this year, but I guess we'll see.Comment
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I wonder if you can find a splined extension in the correct spline count and size.
simular;
Last edited by GM_Guy; 03-07-2024, 05:20 PM.Comment
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After recently installing a trailer hitch on my 91MGM, I found I had only one new hitch remaining, so I decided to move forward with installing it on my 83MGM. The hitches take up a lot of space to store, so between that and their functional value, they're better on the cars than off.
The 83 has a home-made drawbar installed. It's made of rather heavy materials, is installed with decently heavy hardware to very solid points on the car, and would probably be an excellent hitch for towing, but my primary goal isn't a hitch ball, it's other 2" accessories like a cargo carrier or bike rack. For that reason, the home-made arrangement has to go.
Tonight, I put the car on ramps and studied what I'll need to do to remove this thing. I got to looking at this too late at night to actually hack any of it apart, but it appears a grinder with a cutoff wheel will be used heavily in the process as the threads are all pretty rusty and the fastener heads aren't easy to get tools on. Interestingly, much of the hardware is very large Allen-head (internal hex) cap screws. While under the car, I noticed the factory tailpipe hangers are both present - this was a factory dual exhaust car, which I believe is common to Canadian-market, factory 2150 carb 302 Panthers.
After determining that I couldn't do anything with the hitch tonight, I moved on to the tail light wiring. As with the 91, I had installed sequential turn signals in about 2013 or 2014 using a module from the now-defunct meter4it.com. As with the 91, I recently discovered the module misbehaves rather seriously when used with only LED bulbs, and I did swap this car over to Sylvania Zevo LEDs for the tail lights at the same time as the 91. So, when I bought WebElectric modules to re-do the 91, I also bought a set for this car, and tonight I cut out the meter4it box and put in the WebElectric pieces. They are presently lacking their 'control wires' to cancel sequencing when braking (to be clear: a turn signal continues to sequence when braking, but no sequencing will occur for a side that isn't blinking as a turn signal), but that's fine. Assuming the (not optioned) cornering lamp relay sockets are stashed somewhere up in the dash, I will easily be able to tap into the turn signal circuits there for the control wires.
As mentioned in WAYWO the other day, this car was giving me a lot of issues starting and running. It was like the air-fuel ratio was totally off, seeming more on the extreme lean side. Wouldn't start without doing things with the pedal that seemed unnecessary, and wouldn't stay running without pedal, and was revving really high for the amount of pedal being given. This turned out to all be caused by a massive vacuum leak - the PCV hose from below the carb was detached. With that connected, it went back to starting easily and running rather well (minus some minor carb turning stuff I still need to sort out).
In the next few days I should be able to attack this thing with a grinder and get the hitch done
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