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kishy's 2005 Focus
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Thread: kishy's 2005 Focus

  1. #1
    all the CFI are belong to me
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    Default kishy's 2005 Focus

    All I can do is shrug at this point.







    The project to put my mother in the 86 MGM has stalled.

    In the meantime, my aunt (my mother's sister) informed me that her neighbour was getting ready to sell his 2005 Focus ZX4 SES. It is a well-optioned car, Duratec 2.0, stick, 113k km. It is in decent condition but does require minor work to return to the road. At $500, it was a no-brainer. $500, especially Canadian, doesn't buy anything right now, particularly not anything with a catalytic converter still on it, so I moved quickly on this.

    As my mom can drive stick, this is the new car for her. If it turns out that stick is not for her after giving it a try for a while, I have a list of people now who want this car if she passes it up, so no issues there.

    The current needs list is:
    • A brake line repair which may turn into replacing most of the car's lines. It has poly-coated lines but only to a point in each wheel well, which is of course where the rust is worst.
    • Rear brake inspection and probably replacement of shoes, wheel cylinders and hardware, since I will be in there anyway and gaining access is really stupid on these cars (the drum is the wheel hub).
    • Replacement of the flex pipe which is an integral component of the exhaust manifold and catalytic converter (all one piece). I will pay a shop to do this.
    • Tires: I have a set of winters that will work on it, but am working on getting wheels that will fit the tires and this vehicle.
    • Corrosion mitigation: probably get it oil sprayed. The body probably does not require any attention to pass a safety but if it does, it's minor.
    • Climate control repair: the cable transmission system to change the blend doors is broken which is common and has a more serious root cause. I've already obtained the cables to make it work again and will mitigate the root cause in the process.
    • Optional but a good idea: transmission output shaft seals
    • Engine oil and trans oil changes
    Last edited by kishy; 10-29-2021 at 11:39 AM.

    Current drivers: 84 TC | 85 CS
    Panthers, Parked: 83 GM 2dr | 86 GM | 88 TC | 91 GM
    Not Panthers: 85 Ranger | Ranger trailer | 05 Focus
    RIP: 97 CV | 83 TC | 04 Focus | Junkyards

  2. #2
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    Sounds like a smart purchase
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  3. #3
    Stow It! GM_Guy's Avatar
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    Gotta agree with that, especially being a manual focus and not one of those troubleprone dual clutch "automatics".

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    Quote Originally Posted by GM_Guy View Post
    Gotta agree with that, especially being a manual focus and not one of those troubleprone dual clutch "automatics".
    I think that generation of Focus was a conventional automatic. I believe the DCT troublemaker came along in 2012 with that new generation of Focus.

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  5. #5
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    just make sure you get the old cat back so you can get some cash from it unless they are going to knock off an appropriate amount of money for letting the shop keep it.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

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    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

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    Lost and driftin' Arquemann's Avatar
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    Looks like a Focus, probably sounds and feels like a Focus, but what the shit is a ZX4 SES? Granted the trim levels in europe aren't the simplest, but those are completely different for some reason, even though its the same damn cars over here.

    Is the trunk a sedan trunk or more like a hatch (sportback to be correct) on this one? Focus sedans are pretty rare here.
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  7. #7
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    Indeed, the autos in these years were not known for being super troublesome. I've heard of some failing but not in any way like the PowerShift disaster.

    The factory cat is being rebuilt with a new flex pipe, the car will not be de-catted. If the shop de-cats it (even to hand the cat to me afterwards), I will bring the full force of the government down on them which I understand to be an expensive and lengthy process to recover from. If it's street-driven and exists in my life, it has cats.

    ZX4 I believe is the body, in this case the sedan. Wagons are ZTW, I believe the 5-door hatch is a ZX5 and 3-door hatch is a ZX3. No clue where Z comes from but that's what they're called. SES is the trim level and I understand SES to be on the higher end of the non-performance-oriented stuff. e.g. there is an appearance package that gives them a body kit, this car does not have that. It also has the lesser engine and trans (stick is inherently incompatible with the idea of being fully loaded on this continent), but has everything else imaginable.

    It is a traditional sedan with a proper trunk. The rear seats can fold down for trunk access through into the passenger area.

    Current drivers: 84 TC | 85 CS
    Panthers, Parked: 83 GM 2dr | 86 GM | 88 TC | 91 GM
    Not Panthers: 85 Ranger | Ranger trailer | 05 Focus
    RIP: 97 CV | 83 TC | 04 Focus | Junkyards

  8. #8
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    I thought you meant that the whole assembly was one thing and you had to replace it with new, hence the cat currently on the car no longer being on the car. So the flex pipe is replaceable then?

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

  9. #9
    all the CFI are belong to me
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    Quote Originally Posted by gadget73 View Post
    I thought you meant that the whole assembly was one thing and you had to replace it with new, hence the cat currently on the car no longer being on the car. So the flex pipe is replaceable then?
    Not in any traditional sense, no...the flex pipe is integral with the manifold and cat, but someone who knows what they're doing could cut it out and weld a new one in. The flex is after the cat and joins to the pipe that goes to the downstream cat. The entire assembly of manifold, cat, and flex are at the rear of the engine, compartmentalized by the subframe and firewall. A shop has guesstimated it as a $350 job including parts but that was without seeing the car. The guy was familiar with the setup on these and has done them before though.

    I would say that there is not enough pipe in between the cat and the flex to do anything with, but the shop seems to feel they can do it easily, so I'll let them do whatever they wanna do.

    The aftermarket has solved this problem by selling an arrangement that puts a flange on the flex, making it serviceable separately from the cat, but you need the matching manifold-cat assembly and the cat on this car is fine.

    Current drivers: 84 TC | 85 CS
    Panthers, Parked: 83 GM 2dr | 86 GM | 88 TC | 91 GM
    Not Panthers: 85 Ranger | Ranger trailer | 05 Focus
    RIP: 97 CV | 83 TC | 04 Focus | Junkyards

  10. #10
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    I like these little first gen Focuses (Foci?). Never worked on one but drove one in drivers ed when they were brand new. I bet an SES manual is unusual. The drivers ed program in the county still has these cars, so they can't be that bad if they survived twenty years of first time drivers.
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  11. #11
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    friend of mine has a 2010 that he bought new. Finally had to put a clutch in it a month ago at 180k. He told me its the only money he's put into the car outside of standard maintenance.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

  12. #12
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    I've been fighting with the parts car to sort out how to fix the HVAC vent flap issue in this...not the easiest problem to deal with unfortunately.

    The radio in my Focus has a broken CD mechanism (it won't take the disc in) and the parts car radio is not compatible (04-05 differences).

    During yesterday's junkyard trip I found a 2007 Focus that appeared to be in fantastic condition, well taken care of. It had what is visually the same radio as this car, except with the MP3 logo suggesting the added ability to play MP3 CDs. Bought the junkyard radio. 15 USD is very acceptable, although they don't do exchanges at that particular yard anymore, so it was a mild gamble.

    Put it in, tested AM, FM and CD all successfully. Cosmetically it's in better condition as well. I might be imagining things but it sounds better too, might be a better preamp or internal EQ or something.





    (actually, yes, radio, you are quite OK)

    Last edited by kishy; 12-13-2021 at 09:27 PM.

    Current drivers: 84 TC | 85 CS
    Panthers, Parked: 83 GM 2dr | 86 GM | 88 TC | 91 GM
    Not Panthers: 85 Ranger | Ranger trailer | 05 Focus
    RIP: 97 CV | 83 TC | 04 Focus | Junkyards

  13. #13
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    Nice work!!!

    That is/was exactly my plan. Got my Mom the Explorer to tool around in until I get the CV running. Hopefully your delays are short.

  14. #14
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    Decided to start somewhere with the under-the-car shenanigans, and figured I'd tackle the transmission output seals tonight.

    I had naively hoped this would be a quick and easy thing, but instead, the car is still taken apart and the parts list has grown.

    Put the car up, tried to get the wheels off. Expanded corroded lugnuts. That took some minor fighting.



    Drained the trans oil. Missed the drain pan with a lot of it. Should have taken that as a sign that tonight was not the night.



    Undid the driver side tie rod end and ball joint. Smacked the heck out of it, pried, hammered, couldn't get the ball joint to release. Wanted to avoid using the fork so as to not ruin the boot, but had no choice eventually. Even with the fork, it was the toughest ball joint to separate that I think I've ever touched. Lower ball joints are going on the parts list. The control arms are acceptable otherwise, so I will just do the joints, which entails grinding off some rivet heads and bolting in the new joints. Not the end of the world, just kinda sucky.

    I sort of forgot that CV axles are retained with those little metal ring clips and gave a tug on the shaft, unseating the inner CV joint. Thankfully, got it put back together. Raided the tool cabinet and put together a puller that just barely fit, hammered the snot out of it, finally got the CV to pop out of the trans.





    Hammered on the seal puller for a while, applied some heat, finally got the seal to start coming out. Drove the new one in uneventfully, it seated nice and flush, all seems good.





    Can't get the CV axle back in for anything. I've tried gentle, I've tried forceful, I've tried oiling the end, I've tried greasing the end to keep the clip centered. Nothing seems to be working. I need a way to transmit more force onto the end that goes into the trans, because the joints themselves absorb all the shock of hammering etc. I know that it shouldn't take that much force, but it just isn't going in.

    All this effort is making me second guess if perhaps I should just put new axles in it while I'm doing this. If it sucks this much, what's $150 extra in parts to put off having to take it apart again soon? Slippery slope on a car with an uncertain future.

    Current state is the driver side is still taken apart, going to price some ball joints locally tomorrow, will ask about the axles in case they end up being cheap enough to just go for it. Doubtful though.


    Current drivers: 84 TC | 85 CS
    Panthers, Parked: 83 GM 2dr | 86 GM | 88 TC | 91 GM
    Not Panthers: 85 Ranger | Ranger trailer | 05 Focus
    RIP: 97 CV | 83 TC | 04 Focus | Junkyards

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    I replaced the ball joints on a similar model focus a few years ago. Removing the rivets is tough, but doable. The factory rivets expand a bit into the ball joint flange, so don't expect them to just fall out when the heads are ground off. They'll need persuasion from a hammer and punch (at least) or an air hammer (preferably).
    óJohn

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  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Giraffe View Post
    I replaced the ball joints on a similar model focus a few years ago. Removing the rivets is tough, but doable. The factory rivets expand a bit into the ball joint flange, so don't expect them to just fall out when the heads are ground off. They'll need persuasion from a hammer and punch (at least) or an air hammer (preferably).
    Ugh, you weren't kidding. Over an hour into just a single rivet when I decided my time and frustration were worth more. Returned the ball joints and opted for the full control arms instead.

    In the course of fighting with the CV axle on the driver side, I tore the boot. These ones evidently are filled with gear oil rather than a thick grease, because that's what started leaking out. It's a good thing my buddy was working at the parts place because this could have been much more expensive. Got CVs for both sides, anticipating stupidity on the other side too.

    Control arm was off in...I dunno, 10 minutes? The new shaft went in rather nicely, put the new arm in, anti-seized everything liberally, got the driver side back together. Moved on to the passenger side.

    Yanked it all apart pretty uneventfully except for the ball joint pinch bolt, which was corroded in its hole so badly I had to put heat on it to get it out.

    Didn't realize the passenger side axle would not have that irritating clip on it, so I mulled over the idea of not replacing this one and just reusing the old, till I spun the bearing on the shaft and realized it's trashed. Yanked the seal out, popped the new one in, put the new axle in, control arm in, pretty much ready for the knuckle and strut assembly to go back in but I see a section of brake line I'm not super happy with and want to make sure it's not going to require attention before I put stuff back in the way again.












    The scrap pile from this car so far, which will go into the 04 when it goes for scrap:




    Also scoped out how access is to the exhaust flex pipe...not great. I don't see how they're going to do it in the car, the manifold-cat-flex assembly probably needs to come out. But I'm farming that out to a shop and whatever it costs, it costs. It has been previously repaired and appears from the positioning of things that maybe a too-short one was used and it sort of stretched until it detached the flex part from the end.




    Current drivers: 84 TC | 85 CS
    Panthers, Parked: 83 GM 2dr | 86 GM | 88 TC | 91 GM
    Not Panthers: 85 Ranger | Ranger trailer | 05 Focus
    RIP: 97 CV | 83 TC | 04 Focus | Junkyards

  17. #17
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    And the completion of all that:

    I sanded the brake line that looked iffy and decided that while it was not in imminent risk of failing, it would never be as convenient as it was at that exact moment to make a repair to it due to the strut being removed, so I went ahead and did it. Just used the green coated steel stuff since I have a ton of it still. This spot should get oil sprayed anyway.



    Forgive the unnecessary bend - I made it too long and with very nice flares, so decided not to cut and re-do.

    Finished reassembling the front end and filled the trans. 2.1qts, exactly as the spec says, which worked out to exactly 4qts between the Ranger and this.



    Results: 113,384km replaced front lower control arms including bushings and ball joints, trans output shaft seals, CV axles, right front brake line section, and swapped on front tires from parts car.

    Noted that the sway bar end links are still tight, but the outer tie rod ends may be marginal. No real wheel wiggle, but the studs are easy to flop around. Not an immediate concern, but maybe soon.

    Moving on to the rear brakes next.

    There is also an electrical issue causing the charging system light to come on, and while it puts out charging voltage, if the car sits long enough the battery loses enough voltage to not start the car. Hoping it's just the battery, but the alternator is a possibility (rectifier failure). I've now fully charged it out of the car and noted the voltage (12.97V when removed from charger) and will see how much it drops over the next couple days. If the battery is the problem, the parts car one is good, so not really a problem.
    Last edited by kishy; 12-19-2021 at 01:56 PM.

    Current drivers: 84 TC | 85 CS
    Panthers, Parked: 83 GM 2dr | 86 GM | 88 TC | 91 GM
    Not Panthers: 85 Ranger | Ranger trailer | 05 Focus
    RIP: 97 CV | 83 TC | 04 Focus | Junkyards

  18. #18
    all the CFI are belong to me
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    Over the weekend, I developed symptoms of a cold, but not the traditional COVID19 symptoms. Regardless, I'm off work pending test results, with the test having been done this morning. Surprise bonus days to make progress!

    Today, I did a few things.

    Replaced the fuel filter. It was on my list and I had the part on-hand, but it became necessary in the moment because I needed it out of the way to manipulate the brake line leading to the blown section at the rear right corner.





    Filter out, disconnected a convenient threaded union between two line segments, re-bent the factory line to where I would be able to work on it easier, then put the fuel filter back in. Verified no fuel leaks, all good on that front.

    Made a new line to replace the bad section using nickel-copper lines with stainless M10 flare nuts. Went together nicely.

















    Filled it up with fluid and got what looked like a good solid bleed out of all 4 corners. Test drive shows the car is able to stop, but the pedal is soft and the warning light turns on during pedal application (as far as I know the only trigger for that specific light is the fluid level float). More to be done here. Wondering if the ABS system is trapping some air, possibly.



    I pulled the rear drums off, which are integrated with the wheel hub and have the wheel bearing pressed into them. Big spindle nut comes off, then drum/hub/bearing assembly slides off the spindle. Found the shoes are at an acceptable wear level and decided I'd put it back together. Noticed that the drums had a lip on them. Don't have an adequate caliper or micrometer to measure drums, but I checked the parts car and found it has literally almost brand new rear drums (and shoes and hardware). Unlike the front brakes, the rears do seem to interchange. I swapped the drums between the cars (life's easier without the lip on the drums) and am giving thought to taking the shoes and hardware while I'm at it. It's essentially free, but since I won't be re-assembling the brakes on the parts car if I do this, it will make that vehicle no longer capable of being moved under its own power. Unless I put bolts in the ABS pump outlet ports. Maybe not the worst idea ever since I do still want it to be able to move.







    I did find the 05 now has ABS and TC warning lights illuminated, and then an additional familiar light bulb turned on in my head. I confirmed by hooking the laptop with FORscan to the car. This car has rear wheel speed sensors, and it seems the drums off the other car do not have the tone rings needed for that system. So regardless of taking shoes and hardware, I have to go back in there again anyway. Looking at the photo above, though, it isn't clear to me what's even different. That ribbed-looking cap on the inside of the hub section must be removable.

    The electrical problem: the battery held a charge in a way I'd call healthy. Took off the charger at 12.96V. It settled to 12.75 or so, sitting out of the car, and stayed steady there. I put it in the car to briefly start it and move it a couple times and found it in the mid-12.5s. Although the charging system voltage on the car is 13.5-14.5 (it fluctuates), the charge light is on intermittently, and vehicle electronics (most noticeably lights) waver in intensity. If I apply a lot of electrical loads and suddenly turn them all off, the voltage jumps over a bit, then stabilizes, so the regulator is working. The battery cables do have a fair bit of corrosion, but the fact that it will start makes me suspect the alternator may be the issue (rectifier being the likely culprit). Unfortunately, it's a big pain of a job to do on the Duratec cars, as it's on the rear side of the engine. It does not cross with the Zetec parts car, either. Further diagnosis pending. Not throwing an alternator at it until I have a better idea of what's going on.

    The code for the charging system is vague and doesn't come back to any one specific problem. The car sees a problem but doesn't know what it is.

    Last edited by kishy; 12-22-2021 at 01:36 AM.

    Current drivers: 84 TC | 85 CS
    Panthers, Parked: 83 GM 2dr | 86 GM | 88 TC | 91 GM
    Not Panthers: 85 Ranger | Ranger trailer | 05 Focus
    RIP: 97 CV | 83 TC | 04 Focus | Junkyards

  19. #19
    all the CFI are belong to me
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    Merry Christmas, all.

    Chasing the charge system warning light and vague code that indicates a problem, but not what the problem is:

    DC charging voltage is a pretty solid 14.5, I see no concern there.

    Decided to measure AC voltage.
    Digital multimeter in 200VAC range, saw 00.0V.
    Analog multimeter in 50VAC range, saw 33VAC.

    Unless I am mistaken, this seems like way too much AC voltage and probably speaks to a blown rectifier diode. My only uncertainty is why the digital meter shows nothing, but both meters are used heavily and have always behaved as I expect them to.

    Pending the results of any Googling or replies here saying otherwise, it looks like I'm buying an alternator. The parts car one is not the same unfortunately.

    Edit: I had a thought, and checked with the same 50VAC scale on my booster pack, which definitely doesn't have any means of generating AC. I saw just under 30V, maybe 28VAC. Maybe this is a false reading.
    Last edited by kishy; 12-26-2021 at 04:20 PM.

    Current drivers: 84 TC | 85 CS
    Panthers, Parked: 83 GM 2dr | 86 GM | 88 TC | 91 GM
    Not Panthers: 85 Ranger | Ranger trailer | 05 Focus
    RIP: 97 CV | 83 TC | 04 Focus | Junkyards

  20. #20
    GMN Regular Giraffe's Avatar
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    Could you swap the regulators?
    óJohn

    1985 Ford F-150 XLT Lariat
    1990 Mercury Grand Marquis LS (POTM March 2017 & May 2019 - gone, but not forgotten)
    1995 Mustang SVT Cobra coupe (cream puff)
    1966 Mustang coupe (restoration in-progress)

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