Alrighty, redundancy time. Below testing done fresh today.
Checked ACT at ambient temperature (40 something Fahrenheit). Appeared in spec. Removed from manifold, brought flame of a torch near the sensing tip, observed voltage decreasing as expected. It isn't possible to backprobe this while it's installed because of its location under the throttle body, so this is as good as I can do. It did test out approximately the same as my spare as well.
Performed same test with ECT except just applied torch to the pipe it threads into. Seemed a bit off from spec based on my expectations but nonetheless changed as expected. There's about a 0.05 to 0.1 voltage variance from what the charts all say. This amount of variance stays the same both at cold and fully hot engine temps. The sensor seems to be saying the temperature is a bit colder than it actually is. Since it's off by such a small amount I doubt it's a concern; am I wrong?
Performed same test of 3 spare ECTs, found values all varied slightly but were all in the same ballpark or more accurate.
TPS...found my analog meter. Checked the TPS. Observed that throttle closed voltage is 0.80 which is lower than I left it previously. TPS does not appear to have shifted any so IDK. Hand operated throttle from closed to WOT and back again as well as a bunch of movements at various points, voltage changes as expected with no spikes or drops.
MAP...it's established the engine makes good vacuum and that swapping the MAP for multiple others known-good has not affected this previously. So I'm just going to say it works. The vacuum line to the MAP seems to be in functional condition as well.
Fuel. Primes to 40-42ish PSI. It will leak down but very slowly. The leakage is not via the injectors as the throttle plates stay dry. The CFI pressure regulator is 'fixed', there is no vacuum control over it, so there's no way the regulator is internally leaking fuel into a vacuum line. The leakdown is evidently via the regulator, back to the return line (or via the pump back into the tank, but regardless, it didn't even lose a full 10psi over an hour so it's no big deal).
Runs at a consistent 40-42 PSI. The needle stays steady on the gauge and there is no change in fuel pressure coinciding with how the engine is running. I watched the gauge face while the engine was doing it's choking missing garbage and it stayed steady. With 40PSI at the injectors, we can rule out the pump and filter, as the pressure would have to be a fair bit less before the engine would suffer from lack of fuel...right?
Injectors as determined above do not leak down. However, I don't really have much of a way to verify that they flow adequately. I'm tempted to say they're fine though because it runs fine with SPOUT disconnected.
Shook harness again. No correlation to improvement or degradation of engine running quality.
Played with the key while it was running, tried turning a bit closer to the start position and pulling back towards off, no correlation to engine running quality. I know that's not the most accurate way to test it but it seems like if the ignition switch were the problem there'd be some flakiness with key movement.
Found #8 plug wire may have been arcing on oil dipstick tube. Rectified situation. No change to engine running quality.
Problems seem not to affect a 100% cold engine, but they seem to come on once the engine begins gaining some warmth, but still before 130 degrees. Different from before, once problems begin, they basically continue intermittently with no real temperature pattern, except they will be more frequent and severe at operating temp. As before, much worse when engine is loaded (e.g. brake in gear).
Oh, and injector mini-harness in the throttle body assembly is good too. 0 ohms on each of the wires and no breaks or increases in resistance from wiggling wires.
Checked ACT at ambient temperature (40 something Fahrenheit). Appeared in spec. Removed from manifold, brought flame of a torch near the sensing tip, observed voltage decreasing as expected. It isn't possible to backprobe this while it's installed because of its location under the throttle body, so this is as good as I can do. It did test out approximately the same as my spare as well.
Performed same test with ECT except just applied torch to the pipe it threads into. Seemed a bit off from spec based on my expectations but nonetheless changed as expected. There's about a 0.05 to 0.1 voltage variance from what the charts all say. This amount of variance stays the same both at cold and fully hot engine temps. The sensor seems to be saying the temperature is a bit colder than it actually is. Since it's off by such a small amount I doubt it's a concern; am I wrong?
Performed same test of 3 spare ECTs, found values all varied slightly but were all in the same ballpark or more accurate.
TPS...found my analog meter. Checked the TPS. Observed that throttle closed voltage is 0.80 which is lower than I left it previously. TPS does not appear to have shifted any so IDK. Hand operated throttle from closed to WOT and back again as well as a bunch of movements at various points, voltage changes as expected with no spikes or drops.
MAP...it's established the engine makes good vacuum and that swapping the MAP for multiple others known-good has not affected this previously. So I'm just going to say it works. The vacuum line to the MAP seems to be in functional condition as well.
Fuel. Primes to 40-42ish PSI. It will leak down but very slowly. The leakage is not via the injectors as the throttle plates stay dry. The CFI pressure regulator is 'fixed', there is no vacuum control over it, so there's no way the regulator is internally leaking fuel into a vacuum line. The leakdown is evidently via the regulator, back to the return line (or via the pump back into the tank, but regardless, it didn't even lose a full 10psi over an hour so it's no big deal).
Runs at a consistent 40-42 PSI. The needle stays steady on the gauge and there is no change in fuel pressure coinciding with how the engine is running. I watched the gauge face while the engine was doing it's choking missing garbage and it stayed steady. With 40PSI at the injectors, we can rule out the pump and filter, as the pressure would have to be a fair bit less before the engine would suffer from lack of fuel...right?
Injectors as determined above do not leak down. However, I don't really have much of a way to verify that they flow adequately. I'm tempted to say they're fine though because it runs fine with SPOUT disconnected.
Shook harness again. No correlation to improvement or degradation of engine running quality.
Played with the key while it was running, tried turning a bit closer to the start position and pulling back towards off, no correlation to engine running quality. I know that's not the most accurate way to test it but it seems like if the ignition switch were the problem there'd be some flakiness with key movement.
Found #8 plug wire may have been arcing on oil dipstick tube. Rectified situation. No change to engine running quality.
Problems seem not to affect a 100% cold engine, but they seem to come on once the engine begins gaining some warmth, but still before 130 degrees. Different from before, once problems begin, they basically continue intermittently with no real temperature pattern, except they will be more frequent and severe at operating temp. As before, much worse when engine is loaded (e.g. brake in gear).
Oh, and injector mini-harness in the throttle body assembly is good too. 0 ohms on each of the wires and no breaks or increases in resistance from wiggling wires.
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