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Thread: Success rates with cheap parts?

  1. #21
    Stow It! GM_Guy's Avatar
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    Another good thing to get from them, battery cables, when on closeout anyway. Extremely cheap. I got a couple here that are ridiculously long that I got for less than 10 bucks, I think they where originally for a cadillac, couple pig tails on them, plenty long for everything I own, originally bought them just for the cable. Then I got to looking more often and have added to the battery cable collection with cables that are the right size and have more than enough pigtails to do whatever I want in the future. Never paid more than 5 bucks each for any of those. Can't make them from scratch for that kind of money. I'll use them eventually. Still thinking about doing a 3AG conversion on the GMC.

    Alex.

  2. #22
    White collar, and a red neck P72Ford's Avatar
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    I have had decent results with MOOG.

    I have complete uppers from MOOG on my '08 that looked really nice. Lowers, the boot has leaked since day one on both sides; as though it is made to. Maybe it is? All of our Crown Vics (my family has 5) have MOOG front end parts; from a 1990 through 2010. The quality has not ever been suspect for me.

    The only MOOG parts I have been disappointed in were the UCAs on my '04 Ram. They did not last. 30K maybe?

    I replaced them with Raybestos Professional, which seem to be hard to find, and they were excellent.

    I don't buy anything from NAPA or the local chain stores, other than tire shine. They are too expensive, and most of the stuff is garbage. Napa is better than most, but the prices are outrageous. I use Rock Auto because the prices are awesome, even with the shipping charges, and they have a great selection of brands that I can't find locally. I understand the Canada folks may be challenged by the tariffs/ taxes/ whatnot, but I never never once had them mess up an order, and I don't have to deal with parts store buffoons that ask me if my car has cupholders or not when I am trying to buy spark plugs. RA is tough for unplanned repairs (waiting for shipping), but thats why I have 5 cars and do preventative maintenance
    **1965 Ford Mustang Coupe: Currently on the Rotisserie, 306/T5/4.10s Long Term Street/ Strip Project
    **1990 Ford Mustang LX Hatchback: 5.0, 5 spd, 4.10s; 30K original miles Vineyard car
    **2008 CVPI, Ex MSP Unit #420: 4.6, 3.55TL Flowmaster 10 knock offs, dark tint, JD Blitz Black, DD, CHALKBOARD
    **2012 Harley Davidson Wide Glide (FXDWG): 103, Cobra Speedsters, Cosmetics
    **2014 Ram 1500 QCSB Express 4WD Hemi/8spd TF/3L21 Truck Duties; Boesch Built, Cosmetics

  3. #23
    all the CFI are belong to me
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    I would not deny that Moog are among the better options on the market, but anecdotally, they are not the premium part they once were. They are now somewhere above/hanging out with your standard white box part but inferior to the factory-installed part (and it's important to understand that the part being sold at the dealer parts counter may not be the factory-installed part, it may just be one of those white box parts living in a Motorcraft box).

    Worth noting: some of those anecdotes heavily lean on the "production moved overseas" argument without factual support like statistics for come-backs at the parts counter. These probably can't be trusted to mean anything. Overseas is perfectly capable of building things to the exact same standards as we ever did here, but may not for various reasons.

    Moog boasts certain product benefits like the special grease bearing in the ball joints; whether it actually benefits the life/wear of the part is something we'll never know until people replacing these parts take them apart for autopsies.

    As for the leaking boots, Moog parts specifically have an engineered-in grease relief (a tunnel of sorts) in the boot which is designed to let grease escape to the specified direction (supposed to be inboard onto the control arm). The joints will naturally force pressurized grease out until they are depressurized and that isn't really a problem, as long as dirt is not allowed to enter and the joint is greased on an at least occasional basis.

    I guess what I'd really like to know, but which is impossible to know, is what of the off-brands or white box parts are roughly comparable to the longevity of Moog parts (or better).

    I suspect the derby world might have a word or two to say about it. The serious guys building expensive cars to last multiple events are putting in premium, top dollar parts to make sure the car will last.

    My experience with parts stores, both here and in the US, is roughly as follows: they'll generally sell two lines of a given part, sometimes more. The lower line will have a short warranty and be a 'white box' part which may be a store brand, or just no brand at all, and is probably one of the mystery white box brands you can get from RockAuto.

    The upper line will have a long warranty and sometimes (often?) it's a Moog part.
    Last edited by kishy; 09-17-2018 at 01:38 PM.

    83 GM 2dr | 84 TC POTM 1/2017 (Pre-Op) | 85 CS | 85 Ranger | 91 GM POTM 12/2017 | Junkyards thread/Flickr

  4. #24
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    I bought a $50 odd lot of clearance stuff from Rockauto a few days ago, included were some cheap end links. Will see how those work out. Its an endlink though, its virtually impossible to screw up.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

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