PotM GrandMarq.NET - Panther Headquarters Forum Index PotM
GMN Chat Room GMN's STORE!! GMN's Gallery Please!!
Page 22 of 23 FirstFirst ... 1220212223 LastLast
Results 421 to 440 of 453

Thread: kishy's 1984 Town Car

  1. #421
    all the CFI are belong to me
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    Windsor, ON, Canada
    Posts
    2,368

    Default

    Touching a couple topics here. I went digging in the wagon thread for any mentions of the repair bearings, and while there I found stuff about shocks as well.

    The Lincoln's shocks are in need of disposal. The rear ones seem to be doing nothing at all, while the fronts are unpleasantly hard. Blue Monroes. No surprises there. However, from the wagon thread:

    Quote Originally Posted by kishy View Post
    ...
    I currently have blue Monroes ... on the Lincoln and they behave 100% exactly how I want the car to behave. They are very much a soft shock and I expect I'll see the same on the wagon.
    ...
    But then some number of months later:

    Quote Originally Posted by kishy View Post
    ...
    I have non-NAPA-branded blue Monroes on the Lincoln and they are absolute garbage, but they will do for now.
    ...
    Weird. Anyway, the car needs shocks that don't suck. The Gas-a-Justs on the cars that have received them have made me pretty happy, though they definitely kill the cloud feeling. Will probably do that unless anyone can suggest a shock that maintains the cloud feeling but actually provides some damping so you don't axle hop all over the place on a rough road.

    As for the bearings, I now have the repair bearing in-hand. I went with BCA brand because I've read some good things about them. Indeed, the BCA non-repair bearing for this application is a USA-made bearing. Didn't really think those existed anymore. No way to verify the same of the repair part, as that information is on the bearing race hiding within the assembled part.

    The BCA repair bearing is of the style where there is both an inside seal, keeping the gear oil from entering the bearing, as well as an outside seal, presumably mostly for dust intrusion prevention as well as keeping the grease inside. Since it is not oil-lubed, it comes packed with grease and maybe adding more isn't a bad idea.

    If, when the axle shaft comes out, I determine that it does not have any wear, I may opt to use the standard bearing as I have a few of it on-hand already. But this way the repair part is available if I determine it's needed.







    Excerpts from wagon thread to serve as useful reminders:

    Quote Originally Posted by gadget73 View Post
    make sure you clean up the axle extremely well. I tried two sets of those on my car, neither sealed so it ended up with new axles. The shafts were rusty on mine at the point where the new seal sat though and there just wasn't a usable seal surface. Hopefully yours are in better shape.
    Quote Originally Posted by kishy View Post
    I didn't look too closely at the bearings but these seem to have a seal on both the inside and outside, as the bearing is intended to be greased and not lubed by the gear oil (I think). So hopefully as long as the inner seal seals, and the outer one kinda seals, it all works OK.
    ...
    Quote Originally Posted by kishy View Post
    ...
    The repair bearing install is straightforward, you just need the right tools. Do not get the Harbor Freight axle bearing puller unless you will use it within the warranty. I had purchased that set, then kept it for maybe half a year without using it yet, then leant it to a coworker and it broke for him on the first smack of the slide hammer. He bought me a new brand name set as an apology; these ones are GearWrench brand. Held up find for me. My slide hammer is actually a dent puller kit, so it's pretty lightweight, probably about 3lbs I'm thinking, and it did the job.

    Installing the new bearings is a bit different. For starters, the seal is integrated, and the resulting install will stick out of the axle housing a small bit when it's driven in all the way. Make sure you have a metal-faced bearing driver to knock it into place, the plastic ones absorb the impact shock and you won't be able to get it in the final 1/8" or so without a metal face tool. Fortunately my local parts store does the loan-a-tool thing with that so I didn't need to buy one.

    I initially used a block of wood to drive the one side in, and that was a big mistake. The wood deformed and pushed the seal in slightly on the top side. I'm going to run it and check after a bit to see if there's oil leakage. I'm thinking there will be, but maybe I'll get lucky.

    The repair bearings were Amazon cheapies. The axle shaft on the passenger side does have a very slight groove worn into it, so repair bearing was the right choice. They're Parts Plus brand, and the two were not identical, clearly being made by different manufacturers. One side has two seals, inside and out, and the other side only has one seal, outside. Time will tell which one was better, I guess.
    ...
    Might pull this apart tomorrow evening.

    I also now have the wiper pivot bushings, and this car has the problem where the driver wiper overruns the edge of the A-pillar at highway speed, so I might take a look at that as well.
    Last edited by kishy; 07-08-2022 at 01:12 AM.

    Current drivers: 84 TC | 85 CS
    Panthers, Parked: 83 GM 2dr | 86 GM | 88 TC | 91 GM
    Not Panthers: 85 Ranger | Ranger trailer | 05 Focus
    RIP: 97 CV | 83 TC | 04 Focus | Junkyards

  2. #422
    GMN Regular slack's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Long Island, NY
    Posts
    1,416

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by kishy View Post
    Touching a couple topics here. I went digging in the wagon thread for any mentions of the repair bearings, and while there I found stuff about shocks as well.
    The Lincoln's shocks are in need of disposal. The rear ones seem to be doing nothing at all, while the fronts are unpleasantly hard. Blue Monroes. No surprises there. However, from the wagon thread:
    But then some number of months later:
    Weird. Anyway, the car needs shocks that don't suck. The Gas-a-Justs on the cars that have received them have made me pretty happy, though they definitely kill the cloud feeling. Will probably do that
    That was my same exact experience with the blue Monroe shocks I put in the rear of my CV. They were good when I put them in and went to completely dead and awful within a few months. I've stuck with Gas-A-Justs since. With the stock springs on my GM, it's not overly firm. On my CV with the hard springs, it was like bouncing around in a pick up truck.


    '78 LTD | '87 Grand Marquis | '89 Crown Vic (RIP) | '91 Grand Marquis (RIP) | '94 Town Car (RIP) | '97 Town Car (RIP)

  3. #423
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Posts
    41,589

    Default

    The front struts that were on the Conti when I got it went from OK to seized in about 2 months. They may have been Monroes. I seem to recall they were yellow, but thats all I really know. They got tossed for KYB's purely because literally nobody else makes a strut that is a proper fit to that car. Everything else uses these stupid shim plates to make the U channel piece fit over the spindle and I'm just not a fan.

    front of the Towncar has 1990s CVPI Motorcraft shocks that were on clearance from Rockauto. Rear are NOS 1988 vintage Motorcraft, also on clearance. I don't think I've got 50 bucks into the four of them.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

  4. #424
    all the CFI are belong to me
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    Windsor, ON, Canada
    Posts
    2,368

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by slack View Post
    That was my same exact experience with the blue Monroe shocks I put in the rear of my CV. They were good when I put them in and went to completely dead and awful within a few months. I've stuck with Gas-A-Justs since. With the stock springs on my GM, it's not overly firm. On my CV with the hard springs, it was like bouncing around in a pick up truck.
    Yeah, I learned the Monroe lesson a long time ago, but I don't recall exactly how. I had put yellow Monroes (Gas-Magnums?) on the Ranger and they were trash from day 1. Lifetime warranty from a brick & mortar parts store, and I actually still have them and now the border is open, so maybe I'll see if I can get those swapped on principle. The Ranger is now on KYB Excel-G and they helped it a lot.

    I think I did this car with blue Monroes because it needed shocks to pass a safety (old ones leaking) and just got the cheapest thing I could put my hands on. I'll watch for one of those KYB mail-in rebates to come along and then buy a set.

    Springs on this car are original up front and Moog replacement single-rate springs in the back, with (usually deflated) Air Lift bags inside them. The back is definitely perkier. I forget if I have Lincoln replacement front springs hanging around. This car is due for 95-97 brakes at some point so when I pull it all apart for that I can do the springs too. It's a little saggy.

    Might try junkyard CVPI front coils though. Less money, and won't feel bad or stupid about cutting a partial coil if they sit too high. I want it a little bit up from where it is, not a crazy amount.

    Quote Originally Posted by gadget73 View Post
    The front struts that were on the Conti when I got it went from OK to seized in about 2 months. They may have been Monroes. I seem to recall they were yellow, but thats all I really know. They got tossed for KYB's purely because literally nobody else makes a strut that is a proper fit to that car. Everything else uses these stupid shim plates to make the U channel piece fit over the spindle and I'm just not a fan.

    front of the Towncar has 1990s CVPI Motorcraft shocks that were on clearance from Rockauto. Rear are NOS 1988 vintage Motorcraft, also on clearance. I don't think I've got 50 bucks into the four of them.
    I don't know why I've never considered Motorcraft shocks; seems like maybe a reasonable choice. I'd go NOS if they came along, but I don't see any closeout options for those at the moment unfortunately. They cost ever-so-slightly more than KYBs which is maybe why I've just gone that direction in the past.

    ---

    Last night, I decided to tackle the bearing issue.

    I changed the diff oil in this car when I bought it, and I think I also put new seals on it at that time, as well as the wheel cylinders as the old ones were leaky. I checked the odometer and that is only a measly 33,000km ago.
    As we observed recently, the seal on the right side has been leaking, which usually (but not always) implicates a bearing or race (e.g. axle shaft) issue.
    The wiggle at the wheel end was really minor. Enough to feel and hear, but not really enough to see the axle shaft move. Perhaps bearing wear but not axle shaft.





    I opened things up and did the following:
    • Right side received the BCA repair bearing. I cleaned up the new riding surface for the seal with very fine sandpaper and it looks like it should be pretty trouble-free. There was no groove on the axle shaft but definitely visible surface wear.
    • Left side received an original-design BCA bearing and replacement seal (old, from my existing stock). The axle shaft on this side has the same type of visible wear, but less of it. This will likely require attention again in the future, but we'll deal with that when we get there.
    • Cleaned up the backing plates and put the brakes together with new shoes and hardware kits; had to use a new self-adjuster lever on the left side, but otherwise all the self-adjuster parts were quite good, with the screws turning freely. I did note some significant wear on the backing plate where the front shoe rides at the bottom. Our backing plates are not produced aftermarket so I'm not sure how we fix this; weld to fill it in and then grind it back flat?
    • Obligatory drain of diff oil: found it pretty significantly contaminated with ground bearing dust. I scooped as much out of the bottom of the diff housing as I could. Oil full of abrasives is a bad lubricant. This rear end is going to need more love in the future, and maybe not really far off.
    • Noticed that the cross-shaft/pin has some substantial wear where the gears ride on it. I hooned the crap out of this car in the snow the first year I had it (RE: it was bought to be a winter beater) and I'll bet that had a fair bit to do with it.
    • RTV'd the diff cover back on and filled it with new 80W90 till it came out of the fill hole. The RTV job was rushed due to trying to make it to some plans and my poor time management; we'll see if it holds. Permatex Ultra Black. I spread it on the diff cover off-vehicle, allowed it to sit about 30 minutes, then put it on the diff loosely and left it for about another 30 then tightened it down and filled it almost immediately after that. There may be a puddle waiting for me when I go out to look at it.
    • The right side wheel cylinder may have been leaking at the front side only; this will be monitored.


    Right side:


















    Left side:








    Maybe time to decide what I'm doing with the axles in my driveway. There's one '97 3.27 open disc brake, and one '88ish 3.55 LSD 11" drum brake. I think the disc brake rear is going to end up in the wagon and the K-code is going to end up in the Lincoln. Not immediately, but eventually. The wagon needs the diff swap sooner as part of parts-swap-diagnosing its vibration, so what's in the Lincoln now needs to hold on for a while longer.

    Unfortunately the new shoes aren't doing a great job of actually grabbing the drums and they make kind of a squeaking noise. Panther 10" drums give me nothing but problems trying to get things to work properly. The 11" on the wagon have been pretty good to me and the Ranger 9" have as well, but Panther 10" just don't seem to like being messed with.


    Current drivers: 84 TC | 85 CS
    Panthers, Parked: 83 GM 2dr | 86 GM | 88 TC | 91 GM
    Not Panthers: 85 Ranger | Ranger trailer | 05 Focus
    RIP: 97 CV | 83 TC | 04 Focus | Junkyards

  5. #425
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Posts
    41,589

    Default

    thats a lot of metal in the diff, and the axles don't look damaged enough to explain that. Maybe thats the cross-shaft wear but that much metal I'd think would have something obviously f'd and unserviceable.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

  6. #426
    all the CFI are belong to me
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    Windsor, ON, Canada
    Posts
    2,368

    Default

    Yeah, something bad has happened and is continuing to happen. Probably the pinion bearing eating itself.

    Worth noting not all the oil was like that. That's just the goo I scooped off the bottom of the housing. But I'm sure it's not good regardless.

    Looked at the wiper problem (overrunning the A-pillar at high speeds/high air speed over the windshield). It's definitely not play in the bushings as the main cause, but it may be a tiny contributor. The bulk of the problem is coming from excess play in the driver wiper pivot assembly. The shaft has egged out the hole in the plastic and subsequently cracked it; there is a huge range of motion there, which translates into an extra huge amount of flex at the end of the wiper arm.

    I'm exploring how rebuildable this part is. I think it is, but it'll take some doing.

    Current drivers: 84 TC | 85 CS
    Panthers, Parked: 83 GM 2dr | 86 GM | 88 TC | 91 GM
    Not Panthers: 85 Ranger | Ranger trailer | 05 Focus
    RIP: 97 CV | 83 TC | 04 Focus | Junkyards

  7. #427
    Stow It! GM_Guy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Ontario, Canada
    Posts
    3,734

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by kishy View Post
    Yeah, I learned the Monroe lesson a long time ago, but I don't recall exactly how. I had put yellow Monroes (Gas-Magnums?) on the Ranger and they were trash from day 1. Lifetime warranty from a brick & mortar parts store, and I actually still have them and now the border is open, so maybe I'll see if I can get those swapped on principle. The Ranger is now on KYB Excel-G and they helped it a lot.
    Sometimes Monroe is the only thing we can get our hands on. And because of that you soon discover Monroes are not something you want anymore. At least if you get them warrantied you can flip them on this side of the border.

    Cleaned up the backing plates and put the brakes together with new shoes and hardware kits; had to use a new self-adjuster lever on the left side, but otherwise all the self-adjuster parts were quite good, with the screws turning freely. I did note some significant wear on the backing plate where the front shoe rides at the bottom. Our backing plates are not produced aftermarket so I'm not sure how we fix this; weld to fill it in and then grind it back flat?

    Are you lubing up the brake backing plate contact points? I'm not seeing any signs of slippery stuff in the pictures.

  8. #428
    all the CFI are belong to me
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    Windsor, ON, Canada
    Posts
    2,368

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by kishy View Post
    ...
    The bulk of the problem is coming from excess play in the driver wiper pivot assembly. The shaft has egged out the hole in the plastic and subsequently cracked it; there is a huge range of motion there, which translates into an extra huge amount of flex at the end of the wiper arm.

    I'm exploring how rebuildable this part is. I think it is, but it'll take some doing.
    This part became cast some-sort-of-metal (pot metal? Aluminum-ish?) in a year later than my car, because I looked at an 86 and two 89s today in junkyards and they all had the metal version. That isn't to say they were all good; the 86 one was seized up real good, but both the 89s were usable as-is so that's good.

    I will probably still explore how to rebuild this thing because there seem to be no NOS of this item on eBay. Figuring out a part number might enable talking to Green Sales about it though.

    On the surface it may seem like nothing but this is totally the type of part that, due to its critical importance combined with its scarcity, could cause a car to get parked due to being fundamentally not roadworthy. You need wipers.

    Quote Originally Posted by GM_Guy View Post
    Sometimes Monroe is the only thing we can get our hands on. And because of that you soon discover Monroes are not something you want anymore. At least if you get them warrantied you can flip them on this side of the border.

    Are you lubing up the brake backing plate contact points? I'm not seeing any signs of slippery stuff in the pictures.
    Interesting bit about Monroe: I understand them to be a significant, perhaps leading supplier of OEM shocks. Looking at pics of NOS Motorcraft shocks, they are pretty obviously made by Monroe (aside from paint, they're identical). Obviously, Ford would have provided certain specifications which Monroe is most likely only applying to the private-labeled part, but still...why even make junk? If a product is sold at all, it should be fit for its stated use, and that's that. But we don't live in that world I guess.

    I actually forgot to lube the backing plate, but have now done so. I took both drums off in pursuit of the below issue; lubed the sliding pad areas, made sure the shoe material was clean, brought the adjustment out to almost touching but not quite (which is generous as the drums do have a minor lip).

    The driver side drum is making an awful howling squeal during moderate brake application, but not light or heavy. It also does not occur when stopping the car using the parking brake. The same drum is also severely overheating as if the brake is dragging significantly, but it isn't even adjusted out enough to drag at all by hand with the wheel off. I'm really not sure what's going on with it.

    The passenger side is working quietly and not getting hot to the touch. The brakes work well, I can confidently ride the threshold to bring the car to a 4-wheel-tire-screaming stop with ease, and it isn't pulling in any direction while doing so on smooth level pavement. But the driver side one has some serious issues going on despite working well.

    I suspect (Captain Obvious here) that if I resolve whatever is making it get crazy hot, I will take care of the noise in the process.

    Current drivers: 84 TC | 85 CS
    Panthers, Parked: 83 GM 2dr | 86 GM | 88 TC | 91 GM
    Not Panthers: 85 Ranger | Ranger trailer | 05 Focus
    RIP: 97 CV | 83 TC | 04 Focus | Junkyards

  9. #429
    GMN Regular DerekTheGreat's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Location
    Warren, MI
    Posts
    6,990

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by kishy View Post
    ...Interesting bit about Monroe: I understand them to be a significant, perhaps leading supplier of OEM shocks. Looking at pics of NOS Motorcraft shocks, they are pretty obviously made by Monroe (aside from paint, they're identical). Obviously, Ford would have provided certain specifications which Monroe is most likely only applying to the private-labeled part, but still...why even make junk? If a product is sold at all, it should be fit for its stated use, and that's that. But we don't live in that world I guess...
    The same can be said about automotive refinish paint. It's about profit and the lack of standards on the aftermarket side, probably also made in different plants too. OEM always gets the "best" as its demanded by contract and sold as such. If stuff wets the bed before it was promised, the supplier will have to foot the bill. There's none of that on the refinish/aftermarket side. Well, least not in huge dollar amounts. Like sure, they'll send you another part free under warranty, but they're not doing that for hundreds of thousands of cars or covering the entire job. I agree though, why even make junk? It can't be that much more expensive to make a quality product and earn the reputation which goes along with it, as well as the customer base.

    Quote Originally Posted by kishy View Post
    ...The driver side drum is making an awful howling squeal during moderate brake application, but not light or heavy. It also does not occur when stopping the car using the parking brake. The same drum is also severely overheating as if the brake is dragging significantly, but it isn't even adjusted out enough to drag at all by hand with the wheel off. I'm really not sure what's going on with it...
    This may or may not be your problem, but, when that '92 C1500 was a part of my fleet, one of the arms(?) from the wheel cylinders were sticking. I replaced everything except for them. The one failed in such a spectacular fashion that it took out the backing plate. I guess they were engineered such that both of those arm deals must push out evenly or what happened to me is possible. There was no drag, but I don't remember if it made noise either.
    1985 LTD Crown Victoria - SOLD
    1988 Town Car Signature - Current Party Barge

  10. #430
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Posts
    41,589

    Default

    the original wiper arm pivot on my 86 was some sort of molded or cast plastic material, so was the NOS replacement part on it now. I assume we're both talking about the part that screws down to the car with the splined bit sticking out of it where the arm actually mounts ?


    Do these things run a short shoe / long shoe setup? Its been such a long time that I really do not remember. If you have that reversed it doesn't work right. Have also seen cylinders seize on one side, making only one shoe operate. Usually gets real grabby on that side.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

  11. #431
    all the CFI are belong to me
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    Windsor, ON, Canada
    Posts
    2,368

    Default

    Yes, the bit that screws onto the car, with the splined head for the wiper arm.

    The plastic ones use 3 bolt holes, the cast metal ones use only two, but those two are in the same places so the parts interchange.

    Yes, short shoe + long shoe. I assembled them as they were when I took them apart, long shoe to the rear, short to the front.

    I did grab the shoes and forcibly jam them around in various directions, especially making sure they moved fore-aft relatively freely, and including trying to squeeze the wheel cylinders a bit, but there's no guarantee something isn't weird inside the wheel cylinder on the offending side. The wheel cylinders were remans which went on the car in 2016, but that doesn't mean they haven't become full of goo or corrosion.

    It's just weird that I can take the wheel off, and take the drum off, and it's obviously not dragging. The excess heat is getting into it from brake usage. I suppose if the wheel cylinder is only extending in one direction, maybe the one shoe making solid contact starts rapidly grabbing, getting jerked out of position then grabbing again. I just don't see where the heat is coming from in that scenario.

    Current drivers: 84 TC | 85 CS
    Panthers, Parked: 83 GM 2dr | 86 GM | 88 TC | 91 GM
    Not Panthers: 85 Ranger | Ranger trailer | 05 Focus
    RIP: 97 CV | 83 TC | 04 Focus | Junkyards

  12. #432
    all the CFI are belong to me
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    Windsor, ON, Canada
    Posts
    2,368

    Default

    Annnd fixed. And also fixed!

    I swapped the driver wiper pivot for the one harvested from the blue 89 MGM in the junkyard yesterday. This has corrected my excessive wiper slop. The other joints in the system are still providing small amounts of wiggle, but the overall problem is solved and the wiper is no longer able to overrun (or even run into) the A-pillar.

    Rambling YouTube video RE: wiper pivot: https://youtu.be/EdPsR3Ctwqo

    I then removed the driver rear wheel and took apart the brake. I forcefully jerked the shoes around and determined the issue must be (because there's nothing else) that the front shoe is getting hung up in the groove on the bottom-most sliding pad. I took everything off the backing plate and verified I can push the pistons in the wheel cylinder in both directions with no resistance. I then used a grinder to smooth the sliding pad areas of the backing plate, being mindful that I can't take too much off or the whole thing will just stop working entirely. I got the problem one fairly smooth, lubed them all up, reassembled it, and adjusted it out to only a conservative amount, not what I've been taught to think is truly correct, and took it for a drive.

    No more noise, and no more excess heat. The brake seems to be contributing about evenly, maybe a little bit less than the right side, but it's worth noting it got extremely hot (I soaked it with the hose and it turned all of the water to steam) and the shoe material is actually discoloured vs the other side now. Not really thrilled about that but sometimes things don't go how you want.






    Current drivers: 84 TC | 85 CS
    Panthers, Parked: 83 GM 2dr | 86 GM | 88 TC | 91 GM
    Not Panthers: 85 Ranger | Ranger trailer | 05 Focus
    RIP: 97 CV | 83 TC | 04 Focus | Junkyards

  13. #433
    GMN Regular DerekTheGreat's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Location
    Warren, MI
    Posts
    6,990

    Default

    Cool, fixed is good. That one would've probably had me stumped.
    1985 LTD Crown Victoria - SOLD
    1988 Town Car Signature - Current Party Barge

  14. #434
    The Brown Blob 87gtVIC's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Whitestone, NY
    Posts
    20,823

    Default

    Thanks for the video. Always entertaining and informative.
    ~David~

    My 1987 Crown Victoria Coupe: The Brown Blob
    My 2004 Mercedes Benz E320:The Benz

    Quote Originally Posted by ootdega View Post
    My life is a long series of "nevermind" and "I guess not."
    Quote Originally Posted by DerekTheGreat View Post
    But, that's just coming from me, this site's biggest pessimist. Best of luck

  15. #435
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Posts
    41,589

    Default

    I've used the gasket grinder on backing plates for that job before. When they get a step worn in it can hang the shoes up randomly. Supposed to lube that, but a lot of people do not and when we get things decades after the fact its a bit late to completely un-do the last jackassery.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

  16. #436
    Road Warrior Kodachrome Wolf's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Location
    Evans, GA
    Posts
    2,011

    Default

    Wonder what year the running change on the wiper pivot was. Guess I could pop out to the garage and look at mine. I know I've got a fair amount of slop in the wiper motion, and while I don't recall pillar strike, I know it looks very close on high.

    Might be worth going the route you took though and just finding a late model cast unit if mine isn't.

    My Cars:
    -1964 Comet 202 (116K Miles) - Long Term Project
    -1986 Dodge D-150 Royale SE (112K Miles) - Slowly Getting Put Back Together
    -1987 Grand Marquis Colony Park LS (325K Miles) - April 2017 + September 2019 POTM Winner
    -1997 Grand Marquis LS (230K Miles) - The Daily Workhorse & March 2015 + January 2019 POTM Winner

  17. #437
    all the CFI are belong to me
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    Windsor, ON, Canada
    Posts
    2,368

    Default

    Can't win here, I guess.

    The howling squeal is returning. It is not as consistent or as awful as it was, but it's definitely coming back in the same circumstances as before.

    Also, the "hot brake" smell is definitely happening again (maybe just "still", not "again", hard to be sure). The driver rear wheel gets really hot to the touch, the passenger one gets warm but not crazy hot. Worth noting that the wire spoke wheels do not have any through-hole ventilation at all, so it's not an ideal situation, but the heat is coming from something not working properly and I don't know what that something is. Also, the axle vent is wetting the axle pretty effectively, and I'm not sure exactly how that happens. In order to expand the oil enough to completely fill the tubes and then expand out the vent, the whole axle housing would have to get very, very hot. Like well in excess of 200 degrees, if the oil is even capable of expanding that much. It would be essentially double its original size to do that. Sort of at a loss about it now.

    Might just raid a junkyard car to disc swap this and be done with it. I want the 97 rear end in my driveway to go in the wagon, at least I think I do.


    Today, I chipped away at a couple items:

    Shocks. I have recently remarked that the blue Monroes are doing a whole lot of nothing in the back, and even more recently than that, determined that the fronts also seem to be doing basically nothing. Specifically, the fronts were doing nothing to resist compression, but do resist extending, and the rears are the exact opposite, which means tapping the brakes tips the car forward really aggressively. Despite this, since they do resist movement in the other direction, they don't let the car bounce. Just nosedive.

    I bought some NOS Motorcraft shocks on eBay. They arrived yesterday. Both the fronts and rears show evidence of leaking some oil. I'm not thrilled about this, but this is also part of the risk of buying a NOS sealed-box item through a non-retail channel. It's sort of a risk that I feel is inherent with this purchasing channel and is incorporated into the lower purchase price. I decided to put them on the car and see how they do.

    Got the old off effortlessly thanks to my liberal use of anti-seize in the past, and my 14mm ratcheting wrench. Even with dual exhaust and the fat rear sway bar, it isn't too bad to snake an arm up with the wrench and get the job done with the rear tires on ramps and suspension sitting at ride height.

    Motorcraft shocks are indeed very obviously made by Monroe.















    Somehow, the lower shock bolt holes are still good on this one, but I've got U-nuts hanging around for when they decide to rip out.

    Test drive shows the car handles a lot better than it did while still being comfortable. I'm sure if the oil leakage does not somehow magically fix itself, this will not last. It does still do the weird sideways axle hop over larger bumps that I can't seem to cure on this one...but I think the Gas-A-Justs cured it on the wagon.


    After that, I moved on to the wiper transmission...again. I took out the passenger wiper pivot, found it a little sticky and also plastic, and swapped it for the part harvested off the junkyard 89 Mercury recently. I put new bushings in the relevant pieces, oiled the pivots, greased the bushings and set the wiper arms at the correct low height under the hood. Made sure everything moves nicely, it does. Seems to have breathed new life into that motor, the wipers really move now. Also bonus with the driver wiper pivot replacement, the driver window no longer skips in the middle of its arc of travel leaving a bunch of water there.

    I know 84 has plastic and 86 has metal. I don't know off the top of my head what my wagon has, but I think that one slams into the A-pillar also, so I'll bet it's plastic. The metal ones do seem to wear and get messed up in the same way, but it should take longer.



    From there, I tried to identify two extremely irritating noises: a loud creaking while opening the driver door, which lubricating the hinge pins has not improved, and also a squeaking sound going over bumps that seems to be related to the driver door.

    The creaking turned out to be the little roller wheel things on the lower door hinge. Hit those with penetrating oil to try to wash out any junk trapped in there and also free them up, got them to turn pretty decently and it silenced the creak.

    The squeak is more complicated. I think it may be inside the door. Window-related, maybe. More investigation pending.
    Last edited by kishy; 07-16-2022 at 11:09 PM.

    Current drivers: 84 TC | 85 CS
    Panthers, Parked: 83 GM 2dr | 86 GM | 88 TC | 91 GM
    Not Panthers: 85 Ranger | Ranger trailer | 05 Focus
    RIP: 97 CV | 83 TC | 04 Focus | Junkyards

  18. #438
    Road Warrior Kodachrome Wolf's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Location
    Evans, GA
    Posts
    2,011

    Default

    Regarding the shocks, that's a bit disappointing that Motorcraft replacements might not live up to expectations.

    I cannot say I've been pleased with Monroe shocks. I used to sell them when I worked parts. I recall selling a set of those blue ones to a man with a Wrangler. He brought them back within a year, all of them had blown out, however it was a base 4 cylinder SE used for more road travel than off-roading. I think he said he got roughly 12K miles out before they were wasted. Lifetime warranty helped him and he swapped over to a better grade. The blue ones were great as a cheap option to buy and give the appearance of being a shock, while actually not doing shit for nothing.

    I do recall selling OESpectrum models, perhaps they were better as I don't recall as many comebacks, but arguably I tended to direct folks towards KYB when available, but I have a standing bias on the -'02 chassis for them being decent. I've stuck them on my '97, '87, and a friend's '99.

    I think I've dropped two sets of junk Monroes. My '87 had Gas Magnums on it that didn't look terrible and could pass the bounce test, but once you were on the road, it was a mushy and unpredictable ride. After pulling them, I think two of the shocks would compress and refuse to rebound. We dropped a set black Monroes (or at least a series made by them based on the design of manufacture) from Nick's '89, and likewise, they were junk. I tossed police rate KYBs in mine years back, and he respectively ran Bilsteins. Both were a considerably improvement without being harsh.

    Hopefully your replacements hold out for a good moment. No sense in constantly needing to revisit what should be assumed as a robust component for tens of thousands of miles.

    My Cars:
    -1964 Comet 202 (116K Miles) - Long Term Project
    -1986 Dodge D-150 Royale SE (112K Miles) - Slowly Getting Put Back Together
    -1987 Grand Marquis Colony Park LS (325K Miles) - April 2017 + September 2019 POTM Winner
    -1997 Grand Marquis LS (230K Miles) - The Daily Workhorse & March 2015 + January 2019 POTM Winner

  19. #439
    GMN Regular
    Join Date
    Aug 2018
    Posts
    905

    Default

    S197 mustangs have a tendency to puke oil out of the axle vent as well. Looking more into that might help narrow down your issue. I never had that issue with my 07 gt so I didnít look into it really.

    Funny you say yours hood sideways over bumps. My old 85 ltd did the same thing. I didnít own it long enough to really look into it though. Could be something inherent to the panther platform when something specific but common fails. My 87 mgm has too much of a soft ride I havenít noticed it hop though.

  20. #440
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Posts
    41,589

    Default

    hm, the Motorcraft ones I have are Made In Japan, reasonably sure they are Tokico or KYB.

    How much fluid did you actually put into the diff? The book quantity is actually somewhat less than the "fill till it dribbles out the fill hole" amount. Either way it shouldn't be getting hot, not sure if thats brakes or bearings or what but something is displeased.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

Page 22 of 23 FirstFirst ... 1220212223 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
GMN Approved Links!


www.rockauto.com www.adtr.net