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Thread: kishy's 1985 Ranger

  1. #321
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    The cap is not pretty, but I think particularly on the long box, it looks "right" to have a cap on it, and for the cap to be white. Something just works about it.

    The fact it has the ladder rack is kind of cool. It does have cross bracing at a couple points, not just the two ends, which makes it a really big and therefore really versatile roof rack. Not that I couldn't carry things on the old one...that's how I got a Panther hood home one time, ratchet strapped down onto the top of the cap.

    I suppose ideally I would have a van, perhaps an Aerostar cargo van with barn doors...but those are harder to come by and the Ranger has grown on me a lot.

    The clean cab got crushed. It was going to cost about a thousand USD and between that and the headaches of needing to take ownership of the VIN (you call it title, we call it ownership) it was just not looking like a sensible project. Mine will be fine for a while but eventually it won't be, at which point it might become structurally framed with wood and spray foam...but we'll see. It's also worth noting that because this vehicle is intended to be a sacrifice to the salt, it being perfect would be a waste.
    Last edited by kishy; 01-22-2020 at 08:02 PM.

    83 GM 2dr POTM 10/2019 | 84 TC POTM 1/2017 & 4/2019 | 85 CS | 85 Ranger +trlr | 86 GM | 91 GM POTM 12/2017 | Junkyards
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  2. #322
    Wagon Addicted Tiggie's Avatar
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    Salt sacrifice rides are tough cookies for enthusiasts. You spend time improving this and that, knowing that it will eventually be for naught. Secretly inside hoping that the salt sacrifice ride will not actually sacrifice, but live on forever protecting the other rides in the fleet...

    That’s how it is for me anyway...

  3. #323
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    Quote Originally Posted by kishy View Post
    The cap is not pretty, but I think particularly on the long box, it looks "right" to have a cap on it, and for the cap to be white. Something just works about it.

    The fact it has the ladder rack is kind of cool. It does have cross bracing at a couple points, not just the two ends, which makes it a really big and therefore really versatile roof rack. Not that I couldn't carry things on the old one...that's how I got a Panther hood home one time, ratchet strapped down onto the top of the cap.
    The good thing with that is that cap will support weight. The one on my truck I'm going to have to bolt it to the bed rails at the tailgate end since it is starting to spread out.

    The clean cab got crushed. It was going to cost about a thousand USD and between that and the headaches of needing to take ownership of the VIN (you call it title, we call it ownership) it was just not looking like a sensible project. Mine will be fine for a while but eventually it won't be, at which point it might become structurally framed with wood and spray foam...but we'll see. It's also worth noting that because this vehicle is intended to be a sacrifice to the salt, it being perfect would be a waste.
    Crossing the border with it as a purchase from a salvage yard shouldn't be an issue. If you have zero plans of selling your ranger, there are ways around the vin, legally, swapping the dashboard (where vin is attached) from old to new is acceptable, as thats the loophole jeep guys who switch to a fiberglass tub use. That said, cutting, weld a patch on the dash... nudge nudge wink wink keeps the hassle out of it.

  4. #324
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    Man, I need a LSD for this. Ranger, Bronco II, Aerostar, and some Mustangs can give me it when equipped appropriately. Truck has a 7.5 and I see no reason to go 8.8 with just a 2.3 in front of it. I'm also content with the gears it has, although technically I could afford to lose some top speed because it is capable of reaching ludicrous speed as it is. https://www.therangerstation.com/how...ag-door-codes/






    83 GM 2dr POTM 10/2019 | 84 TC POTM 1/2017 & 4/2019 | 85 CS | 85 Ranger +trlr | 86 GM | 91 GM POTM 12/2017 | Junkyards
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  5. #325
    GMN Regular DerekTheGreat's Avatar
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    Wouldn't a rear end from a donor Ranger just swap in with perhaps a special U-joint? I put the GM locker rear end in Ashley's truck this past summer. Was just $99 and a weekend of labor + the evening of labor at the yard to get it out. You've taken transmissions out so you've got this in the bag.
    1985 LTD Crown Victoria - SOLD
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  6. #326
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    Quote Originally Posted by DerekTheGreat View Post
    Wouldn't a rear end from a donor Ranger just swap in with perhaps a special U-joint? I put the GM locker rear end in Ashley's truck this past summer. Was just $99 and a weekend of labor + the evening of labor at the yard to get it out. You've taken transmissions out so you've got this in the bag.
    You are correct, however my 7.5 is known to be good, and the axle has new bearings. In either case, I need to replace the pinion seal (not putting a new axle housing in without doing that), so I guess it comes down to what PG would charge for the carrier. It isn't listed on the price list so I suppose it comes down to who cashes me out.

    Interesting thing. The Ranger 8.8 uses bigger bearings than does the Panther 8.8. The Panther 8.8 axle uses the same bearings as the Ranger 7.5.

    83 GM 2dr POTM 10/2019 | 84 TC POTM 1/2017 & 4/2019 | 85 CS | 85 Ranger +trlr | 86 GM | 91 GM POTM 12/2017 | Junkyards
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  7. #327
    GMN Regular DerekTheGreat's Avatar
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    That is an interesting thing.

    I forgot to mention that I sold Ashley's old leaky (pinion seal) GM 10 bolt with it's doo-doo 3.08 gearing for $50. Awesome deal IMO. She gained a dual wheel peel and a hotter axle (3.42) for not a whole lot of scratch. Then I went and fumbled the brake job by NOT replacing the wheel cylinders back there and guess what hung up on me? Yep. Destroyed the backing plate as a result. Derek didn't want to deal with it (beyond sourcing a used backing plate from PG) so it got farmed out and I had everything replaced at that time, well seal wise. So that was a bit spendy but cost us less than having a trak-lok "professionally" installed in my Town Car.

    So rant summary is: Sell your good 7.5 when you're done! We got our axle at that yard in Ponticrack. Plenty of trucks over there, it's overwhelming really.
    1985 LTD Crown Victoria - SOLD
    1988 Town Car Signature - Current Party Barge

  8. #328
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    Those with a good memory for unimportant details may remember I bought a set of doors in the junkyard with the intent of taking their vent windows, back in October. I took the whole doors because I didn't have adequate tools to take the glass out, and even if I could have managed to, I wasn't sure how much hardware differed between doors with and doors without.

    I also purchased new dew wipes and window channels (sold as molded application-specific parts for this) because I figured I'd either damage or want to replace those on the truck.

    Tonight, decided to tackle this as I've gotten tired of seeing the extra doors hanging around.













    Success, I'd say. The weatherstrip items were 100% necessary so it's good I had them. Those rivets kind of suck to deal with. Here's hoping threadlocked double-nutted bolts will do the job adequately.

    Removing all potentially useful hardware from the extra doors then they'll go in the scrap heap. They have no value as auto parts, just scrap metal.

    This makes my only vehicle without vent windows the '91, and I intend to eventually do it to that as well...someday.

    83 GM 2dr POTM 10/2019 | 84 TC POTM 1/2017 & 4/2019 | 85 CS | 85 Ranger +trlr | 86 GM | 91 GM POTM 12/2017 | Junkyards
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  9. #329
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    I remember being involved with doing this on a Vic, and it was similarly irritating but not exactly hard. I don't remember if screws or rivets were used to re-install the glass. I've since bought one of those big rivet guns specifically for doing door lock solenoids and other such things.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

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    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

  10. #330
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    Moar threadbumps.

    After putting LEDs in the wagon, I moved on to the Ranger. I had swapped the Ranger bulb sockets to 3157 some time ago, so I'm using 3157 replacements in this instead of 1157 as would be factory. They perform like the wagon (perhaps better due to better condition housings), very decent, pleased with results. Video will be in the trailer thread.

    The trailer is what prompted me to buy LEDs at all, because I didn't want any incandescent bulbs on the trailer (current draw reasons). The trailer also required a license plate lamp housing/lens. The plan became: buy new ones for the Ranger itself, move one of the take-offs to the trailer, then the other take-off goes in the box of spares.

    However, while working on it, I disturbed the wiring to the license plate lights, and they stopped working. After some inspection I found the 'black death' had worsened in the already-twice-repaired wiring for these lamps so I decided to redo them entirely. Found sockets in my stash of bits, used new wire and went to town. Functional result has been achieved. The Ultinon 194 LEDs are very effective in them as well.









    Annoyingly the Dorman license plate lights are absolutely the correct piece but the opening for the socket to go in is sized/keyed wrong, requiring a little hackery on the rubbery sockets to make them fit. Not the end of the world but very irritating as it's supposed to be an application-specific part.

    There is an interesting phenomenon with the Ranger versus LED lighting. With the key in run and all lighting turned off, there is a small amount of voltage leak into the brake light circuit. If the signal is turned on, the leak goes away for that side, so the voltage leak is being inserted after the ignition switch, before the turn signal switch (or maybe integral to the turn signal switch). It's a strange problem for sure because the brake light circuit itself is unaffected by the key: brake lights always work. Therefore the problem is not the brake light switch itself, as if it was, the leak would exist all the time. The result is that the full brightness mode of the LED brake lights will be lit extremely dimly (too dim to see during the day, but can be seen at night) when the key is on and lights are off.
    Last edited by kishy; 07-23-2020 at 11:08 PM.

    83 GM 2dr POTM 10/2019 | 84 TC POTM 1/2017 & 4/2019 | 85 CS | 85 Ranger +trlr | 86 GM | 91 GM POTM 12/2017 | Junkyards
    Gone: 97CV | 83 TC

  11. #331
    GMN Regular DerekTheGreat's Avatar
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    Strange leakage problem. "Black death." LoL, that's what I've always called it.

    What's that brillo pad looking thing just below your soldering iron?? Also, I'm looking to acquire a "solder sucker" but couldn't find one on the webz. Would you happen to know of one you'd endorse? I bought two types of copper solder tape or whatever it is that absorbs solder from stuff. It seems to work well but you need lots of it, that I wasn't aware of until I tried it.
    1985 LTD Crown Victoria - SOLD
    1988 Town Car Signature - Current Party Barge

  12. #332
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    Quote Originally Posted by DerekTheGreat View Post
    Strange leakage problem. "Black death." LoL, that's what I've always called it.

    What's that brillo pad looking thing just below your soldering iron?? Also, I'm looking to acquire a "solder sucker" but couldn't find one on the webz. Would you happen to know of one you'd endorse? I bought two types of copper solder tape or whatever it is that absorbs solder from stuff. It seems to work well but you need lots of it, that I wasn't aware of until I tried it.
    I don't know what I'd call that thing...it's copper, was given to me by the friend who gave me the iron. Used for cleaning the tip. Works well.

    The iron/station is a Solomon SL-20... https://www.pro-soldering.com/solder...ion/SL-20.html
    I've been super pleased with it.

    Solder suckers, I do prefer over the braids 100%. I have two, both are inexpensive generic items and work well. I would honestly suggest to just buy the cheapest one of the conventional design you can find. I don't know that there's a "made in USA" option for this sort of product. Example https://www.ebay.com/itm/174311828308

    83 GM 2dr POTM 10/2019 | 84 TC POTM 1/2017 & 4/2019 | 85 CS | 85 Ranger +trlr | 86 GM | 91 GM POTM 12/2017 | Junkyards
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  13. #333
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    "chore boy" is the usual name for that gizmo in grocery stores. Used for scrubbing pots but they work nicely on soldering irons too. Can also use a damp sponge, but the metal thing works nicely when you don't happen to have water handy.

    You won't like the price of my suggestion, but I've been fairly happy with my Hakko FR-301.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

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    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

  14. #334
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    The voltage leak is from the ECM. It is outputting 8V on the Brake On/Off line, which I always believed was just an input to the computer rather than an output, but now I am unsure. It's a 93 EEC-IV computer.

    There is no harness or switch defect causing the voltage to enter the circuit. This appears to be by design, I just don't understand why.

    There are posts elsewhere on the internet of people finding similar voltage on the brake light circuit in similar age Fords. The answer some turn to is load resistors or using an incandescent bulb in the CHMSL (which I don't have). I need to dig in a bit more into the theory of how the brake light circuit interacts with the ECM and should then be able to find a solution. I have the 93 EVTM so hopefully it can tell me its secrets.

    83 GM 2dr POTM 10/2019 | 84 TC POTM 1/2017 & 4/2019 | 85 CS | 85 Ranger +trlr | 86 GM | 91 GM POTM 12/2017 | Junkyards
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  15. #335
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    I think the BOO circuit works by looking for a path to ground when the brake pedal is up. Basically it uses the filaments to drag down that line and it senses current across a resistor inside to determine brake on or off. You'd have to simulate a load in order to make that work, either resistors or probably one standard bulb would get it done. LED conversions cause that same issue with cruise control. Not so much with the lamps coming on, but it doesn't see that path to ground so it interprets that as the brake pedal being pressed.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

  16. #336
    all the CFI are belong to me
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    Quote Originally Posted by gadget73 View Post
    I think the BOO circuit works by looking for a path to ground when the brake pedal is up. Basically it uses the filaments to drag down that line and it senses current across a resistor inside to determine brake on or off. You'd have to simulate a load in order to make that work, either resistors or probably one standard bulb would get it done. LED conversions cause that same issue with cruise control. Not so much with the lamps coming on, but it doesn't see that path to ground so it interprets that as the brake pedal being pressed.
    That is the impression I was getting of how it worked, and it seems absolutely stupid. Not a fan of that.

    If there were a dual-circuit brake light switch which happens to physically fit the Ranger, I'd prefer to put the lights on one half and the computer BOO circuit on the other, much like how I'm also on the hunt for a dual circuit clutch pedal switch.

    The clutch pedal switch is somewhat easier as it was designed to be dual circuit but they only populated one, therefore the two-circuit version is out there somewhere. The brake light switch is a little trickier, maybe.

    83 GM 2dr POTM 10/2019 | 84 TC POTM 1/2017 & 4/2019 | 85 CS | 85 Ranger +trlr | 86 GM | 91 GM POTM 12/2017 | Junkyards
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  17. #337
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    not gonna disagree its stupid. No idea why they had it look for absence of ground vs presence of power but maybe there was a reason for it.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

  18. #338
    all the CFI are belong to me
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    Quote Originally Posted by kishy View Post
    ...dual-circuit brake light switch...
    ...dual circuit clutch pedal switch...
    Brake light switch, in order to electrically separate the ECM/cruise control from the tail lights.
    Clutch pedal switch, in order to electrically separate the start circuit from the ECM. (RE: the truck has a swapped in newer engine and computer has expectations that don't jive with the way the truck was originally designed)

    I was placing a RockAuto order and decided to browse brake light switches for various Fords. 2000 F-750 came up with a Wells 1S5407, replacement for Ford F87Z13480AA. 5 electrical contacts. Mounting eyeballs out similarly. 10 bucks and shipped from same location - went for it.

    Did not realize that the pigtail for it was horrendously expensive, but I'll get a junkyard one eventually. The switch is used on many newer Fords, not just the obscure bigger trucks.





    This looks like a winner, electrically. Just need to test mount and get a pigtail.



    As for the clutch switch:

    I have one spare junkyard harvested switch; this switch is not available new. The switch design changed a couple years after my truck and it is unclear how retrofittable the newer switch is. The switch in the truck is a multi-circuit switch that only has one set of contacts populated.

    I've tinkered with the spare switch and verified it is easy and possible to take the contacts out and move them around. The plan will be, take both switches apart, use the parts from one to make the other dual-circuit, and that'll do it.




    83 GM 2dr POTM 10/2019 | 84 TC POTM 1/2017 & 4/2019 | 85 CS | 85 Ranger +trlr | 86 GM | 91 GM POTM 12/2017 | Junkyards
    Gone: 97CV | 83 TC

  19. #339
    all the CFI are belong to me
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    Due to the pandemic and border concerns, I have been unable to make progress on the above.

    Yesterday, had a chat with TecNickal...discussed the to-do list for the Ranger. Figured it was about a weekend worth of work: axle pivot bushings, radius arm mounts, radius arm bushings, ball joints if sloppy, inner tie rod ends, repack bearings, alignment. All parts were already on-hand.

    Today, Thanksgiving, decided to give it a go.
    Found ball joints have no slop. They will stay. Ball joints on this year are not adjustable, so replacement does not affect alignment in the future. This truck gets adjusted by bending the I-beams.
    Removed radius arm mounts (one has a rust hole, which is prompting their replacement with new nicely painted examples).
    Found radius arm bushings are actually in decent shape, but will replace anyway as it's a big job to get at them again later.
    Removed entire I-beam assemblies to replace axle pivot bushings. The bushings were not identical, one had been replaced, it is not clear which though. Both were in not-terrible condition.
    Installed new Energy Suspension poly bushings.
    Reinstalled I-beam assemblies at the axle pivot bushings, coil springs, and shocks.
    Radius arms are just chilling there, disconnected.















    (look how CLEAN the engine and trans are!)















    When I return to the project I will install the new radius arm mounts, install the bushings (not poly) and attach the arms to the mounts, which will get the truck back in a condition where it can sit on its own wheels and roll around. The rest of the to-do list will follow as well.

    83 GM 2dr POTM 10/2019 | 84 TC POTM 1/2017 & 4/2019 | 85 CS | 85 Ranger +trlr | 86 GM | 91 GM POTM 12/2017 | Junkyards
    Gone: 97CV | 83 TC

  20. #340
    all the CFI are belong to me
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    Continuation of the front end work:
    Installed radius arm mounts and bushings.
    Reused hardware where available. The new radius arm mounts came with grade 10.9 hardware (normal bolts and nuts), and the original hardware was fine, plus had some unique captive nuts which I wanted to reuse anyway. The 10.9 hardware will be a nice thing to have for future projects.

    Inner tie rod ends are up next.




    83 GM 2dr POTM 10/2019 | 84 TC POTM 1/2017 & 4/2019 | 85 CS | 85 Ranger +trlr | 86 GM | 91 GM POTM 12/2017 | Junkyards
    Gone: 97CV | 83 TC

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