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Thread: Rear Shock Replacement up to 2002

  1. #21
    The Brown Blob 87gtVIC's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Whitestone, NY


    That looked to be the perfect shape for the ratcheting wrench. I will be honest and say I don't torque anything suspension related.

    My 1987 Crown Victoria Coupe: The Brown Blob
    My 2004 Mercedes Benz E320:The Benz

    Quote Originally Posted by DerekTheGreat View Post
    But, that's just coming from me, this site's biggest pessimist. Best of luck

  2. #22
    Member BigMerc96's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    I can see Detroit from here


    I've done rear shocks on 7? 8? '88-'98 Panthers and they're all irritating. On my '96, the rear shocks would not budge, surprising to me because the car was only 12 years old and totally rust free and garage kept. Resorted to cutting thru the bushings with a 12" blade on the sawzall. My '97 Town Car rot box, the original shocks unbolted like they'd been installed yesterday, can't figure that out, but they came out easily enough with vice grips on the shaft and a ratcheting wrench on the top. His '91 Wagon, we gave up because there is zero access from the wheelwell on a wagon and neither of us felt like laying in his gravel driveway to wrestle them out. His '97 Town Car which was only slightly less rusty than mine, those were so seized in there that we resorted to the sawzall. My '98, they wouldn't budge, but I got too looking at it and had an idea. Since its a whale with less intrusive control arm arrangement, and it has RAS so its stupid easy to deflate the bags and move them out of the way, I put a box end wrench on the top nut, then grabbed the shock and bent it as far as I could in towards the center of the car. The wrench up top wedged against the floor of the trunk and the stud bent, so I spun the shock 180* and repeated, bending the stud the other way, by round 3, the stud snapped just below the washer and the shock was out. That was by far the easiest and least potentially damaging "destructive" way I've ever done them.

    Front ones, don't even bother trying to remove the top nut. Put a deep well socket on it, grab a foot or 2 worth of extensions, and bend the stud back and fourth, it will snap just below the washer every time. Takes 5 minutes, destroys the shock but you're replacing it anyway.. The lower 2 bolts rarely fight in my experience, but I always spray the threads of them from on top of the control arm where they poke thru with PB Blaster before I even try and turn them. Front ones take 10 minutes a side to remove that way and you don't even have to take the wheels off, just lift the front end high enough to pull the shock out thru the hole in the control arm.

    1998 Mercury Grand Marquis LS HPP ~95k miles, slowly acquiring modifications.
    1997 Lincoln Town Car Cartier ~145k miles, Ported Plenum, Gutted Airbox, Mechanical Fan Delete, Contour E-fan Retrofit, Dual exhaust, Cats ran away, KYB Gas-A-Justs, P71 front sway bar, air ride reinstalled, Blinker Mod, Projector headlight retrofit, Caddy 4-note horn retrofit, Wood rim steering wheel retrofit, all natural weight reduction as the parts fall off..
    1996 Mercury Grand Marquis GS 117,485mi. R.I.P. 7/14/12

  3. #23
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2005


    problem with the front shocks is the threads in the lower arm stripping out. Getting them out is rarely a problem, keeping them in can be. Drilling the factory hole a CH oversize and clipping a 5/16 speed nut in there takes care of it right quick though.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

  4. #24
    all the CFI are belong to me
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Windsor, ON


    I've done my 91, 84, and 85 now. The wagon is surely the worst due to zero access through the wheel well as mentioned.

    This is actually a serious suggestion: this job is much easier with the fuel tank removed. It makes the job more complicated by a long shot, but you can get a much better angle on those bastard nuts on top of the shocks, up to and including two wrenches, one to hold the shock shaft and the other to turn the nut.

    1/4" wrench works to hold the keyed end of many shocks; the actual size is somewhat smaller but 1/4" will hold it and is the smallest wrench I own so that's what I did. Ideally you'd have a really long 1/4" wrench but not all things are ideal.

    83 GM 2dr | 84 TC POTM 1/2017 (Pre-Op) | 85 CS | 85 Ranger | 91 GM POTM 12/2017 | Junkyards thread/Flickr

  5. #25
    No mean-spiritedness here. IPreferDIY's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2014


    I prefer a torque wrench whenever possible, partly because I'm an ape who tends to overtighten stuff, and it's nice to know I'm in the right range for accessible stuff. (One deceptive torque was my TC drain plug. I think it's 25ft/lbs, and I initially did it hand tight to what seemed good enough, but it went in a lot farther with the torque wrench.) If I can't get a torque wrench on it, I just try to get it as tight as it was when it came off.

    When I did my front joints and bushings some years ago, the front shocks seemed fine, but the bits at the tips of the shafts were useless for holding them enough to get the nuts off. I resorted to filing down one side of the nuts and scavanged nuts from something else. A good nut splitter would probably be ideal if the shocks are still good. I've always been gentle with the bottom bolts, so hopefully they won't give me any grief.

    I remember another tip for the rears. I had the frame on stands and used a jack to support the diff. I had no problem breaking the axle bracket nuts loose, but they were a PITA to remove completely. (I have a corded impact wrench but actually didn't think of it before now. ) For the first one, I only moved the axle after the nut was off. For the second one, I got the nut part way off and was getting tired. I thought ahead and decided to lift the axle, but that just resulted in the threaded part turning in the rubber bushing. If you're lucky enough to have the threaded part jammed in the axle bracket, make sure the nut is off before you move the axle.
    Last edited by IPreferDIY; 08-24-2018 at 03:57 PM.

    2000 Grand Marquis LS HPP, a hand-me-down in 2008 with 128,000 km; 175,000 km as of July 2014
    mods: air filter box "tuba" (in place of the "trumpet"), headlight relay harness, J-mod (around 186,350 km), 70mm throttle body, NKL4 PCM (from a 2000 CVPI, nothing great there apart from highway cruising), KYB Gas-A-Just shocks (after >202,000 km on originals)

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