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Thread: Disc Brake Caliper

  1. #1
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    Default Disc Brake Caliper

    My right front disc brake caliper is locked up and not releasing the pads from the rotor. When I got home I could smell the smoke and could see a light amount of smoke coming from the wheel area and the wheel cover was almost hot to the touch.

    My specific question is, are there any aftermarket manufacturers supporting our "big cars" with aftermarket calipers? Instead of opting for another remanufactured caliper I wanted to see if anyone knew of a company that provides new calipers for our cars.

    thanks,
    Matt

    1991 Grand Marquis, 5.0L. all stock.

  2. #2
    fomoco panthers !
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    Not that I know of. If you did find a "new" caliper, I would be wondering how long it was on the shelf. You can rebuild them yourself or get a top quality brand. Cardone is NOT the best. Maybe Raybestos or Wagner. I would trust a Motorcraft reman which are still available. A little pricey if you don't shop around.

  3. #3
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    I replaced mine with some police steel piston cardone remans. Unfortunately they shipped one side missing all the hardware, so i had to do the rock auto shuffle to get another which took a few more days.

  4. #4
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    If you have stock brakes I don't think you have any choice but reman ones. Not much in there if you want to DIY.

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    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

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  5. #5
    P31 Pursuit Car Brown_Muscle's Avatar
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    You could do a brake upgrade from newer panthers...but that's a lot of work. Worth it, but a lot of work. The stock caliper design sucks TBH
    -Phil



    +1982 Ford LTD-S Police Car. 351w, GT40 Heads, Edelbrock 1906 Carb, Full exhaust headers to tails. 3.27 Trac-Lok Rear. Aluminum Police Driveshaft. Speedway Springs+Bilstein Shocks, Intermediate Brakes, Baumann Shift kit.

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  6. #6
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    In theory the phenolic should hold up better. Only one surface to rust vs 2, but I don't know how much difference it really makes. Rebuild the caliper and flush the fluid, seems to be the best hope you've got of keeping it working. I upgraded the brakes on my Towncar to get away from those crappy calipers, then I bought a Mark VII and a Continental that use those exact same crappy calipers.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

  7. #7
    GMN Regular DerekTheGreat's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gadget73 View Post
    In theory the phenolic should hold up better. Only one surface to rust vs 2, but I don't know how much difference it really makes. Rebuild the caliper and flush the fluid, seems to be the best hope you've got of keeping it working. I upgraded the brakes on my Towncar to get away from those crappy calipers, then I bought a Mark VII and a Continental that use those exact same crappy calipers.
    I don't mind Mark VII brakes, stop and feel better compared to box stuff. Gotta be that weird booster, no?
    1985 LTD Crown Victoria - SOLD
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  8. #8
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    The Conti has the same iron master cylinder my Towncar came with and the same front brakes. Rear disc, hydroboost, not the Teves thing. Pedal feel on that is way better than stock box brakes. Not sure how much is the booster and how much is the rear disc. The Mark VII has slightly better pedal feel than the Conti but its not hugely different. Might be interesting to take an otherwise stock box brake system and swap to the later booster to see what that does for it.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

  9. #9
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    Please excuse my ignorance on this-
    Did any of the later box bodies use ABS/TC?
    Or is that an Aero only thing?

    Thanks and sorry lol
    Last edited by massacre; 08-13-2020 at 06:49 PM.
    ..

  10. #10
    Beater gonna beat sly's Avatar
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    ABS was an option but was not optioned very often. I've only ever seen ONE box with ABS stock and it was an 89 IIRC. Looking online I can find ABS Wheel sensor pigtail available for 1985 up... so there's that.

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  11. #11
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    never heard of a box with factory ABS. No provisions on the hubs for the sensors makes it unlikely to have ever existed.

    That said I know of at least 2 ABS cars, both retrofitted from later parts.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by gadget73 View Post
    Might be interesting to take an otherwise stock box brake system and swap to the later booster to see what that does for it.
    I tossed on an Aero booster when the original one in the '87 went, but everything else is stock. Pedal feel and modulation improved and felt more confidence inspiring.

    My Cars:
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  13. #13
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    I got improvements when the booster and master were swapped on mine to later stuff, but I thought it was more about fixing the valving to match the rest of the brake hardware. Maybe half the reason box brakes suck is that booster then. The overly grabby brakes with poor modulation ability was always my gripe with them.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

  14. #14
    P31 Pursuit Car Brown_Muscle's Avatar
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    It certainly could be- but I have the stock booster and master with aero brake and it has a very modern, progressive feel to it

  15. #15
    all the CFI are belong to me
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    Wagon is rebuilt box-stock booster, 91 master (plastic reservoir style), no frame mounted valve, 11" drums, 95-97 front brakes. Stops super evenly and well. None of that weird sudden lockup threshold junk that stock box brakes like to do.

    Did a really hard panic stop with it just tonight actually, and marveled at it a bit. Stops amazingly well, and didn't lock any of the wheels but I would have expected it to do 2, if not all 4.
    Last edited by kishy; 08-14-2020 at 11:08 PM.

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  16. #16

    Default

    Its funny you say that about locking the wheels at weird braking applications. A couple of months ago I was catching up to some slow moving traffic in my 87 mgm and I pushed the pedal to what one would think was the appropriate amount and it locked up until I let up some. I thought maybe the fluid was getting old or a sticky caliper but Iím willing to bet youíre right itís the booster. Eh maybe Iíll replace it one day. I donít really want to swap to aero brakes but if itíll help with that Iíll look more into it.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  17. #17
    Beater gonna beat sly's Avatar
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    The brakes are the same up to 94 in the front. All the newer booster does is give more control over braking... less digital on/off.

    Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
    rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)
    Quote Originally Posted by gadget73
    ... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.
    Quote Originally Posted by dmccaig
    Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.

  18. #18

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    Just by doing that would help a lot I think. Thatís a good way of putting it, a light switch.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  19. #19
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    Also I found pad selection made a large difference with the grabby brake syndrome. I found Centric Extended Wear pads work very well. Stock pads are designed to be very aggressive when cold. The extended wear are designed to be more linear across pad temperature ranges.
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  20. #20
    Wagon Addicted Tiggie's Avatar
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    The 88 stops well but feels like you push the brake pedal down a foot. The 90 feels better on the pedal but stops are sketchy unless you really dip into the pedal.

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