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Thread: Door lock actuators

  1. #1

    Default Door lock actuators

    I know this topic has been addressed before but I want to know if anyone has been able to rebuild the stockers. Or if anyone has come accross a set that arenít those ones that include multiple rods. They seem to have a different amount of travel than the stock ones do giving me issues with locking and unlocking the drivers side door. Unlocking seems to be the issue, I have to crank it all the way to the left with one hand and lift the handle with the other or else itíll stay locked. Itís quite annoying.


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  2. #2
    Beater gonna beat sly's Avatar
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    A few have replaced the box ones with aero/whale ones that don't have that issue. It requires mounting them a little lower, but other than drilling a new hole, I don't think there's any real change. Maybe a wiring connector as well.

    The stock ones fail due to internal rust/corrosion usually. And because of the way the mechanicals are made, it's near impossible to rebuild one.

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  3. #3

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    Damn thatís a bummer. I donít like the idea of drilling a new hole in the door but I understand. Maybe a bracket could be make to circumvent that though. Do you have any pictures of them installed? How do they compare to the stock locks?


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  4. #4
    The Brown Blob 87gtVIC's Avatar
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    You can locate any similar type to stock and swap out the rod and mount it all back up like normal. gadget73 knows exactly how to swap the rods from one to another. Just find an actuator that is the same body.
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  5. #5
    Lost and driftin' Arquemann's Avatar
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    I recently replaced a right front on my box.

    Bought the ultra power (kishys recommendation) left/right front that RA offers for my model year. It did come with a handful of rods, none of which fit straight. One rod with opposing 45į angles, bent the lower to a 90 and straightened the other, it's pretty much exactly like the original. Slipped in just fine aswell.
    Easiest to reinstall with a new rivet, didn't have rivets big enough so I fiddled a nut and bolt in its place.
    Initially it was a bit sluggish, where I had to keep the power lock button held for just a split second longer. I sprayed a bit of generic lubricant on the pivots and it has been just fine.

    The rubber boots on the actuators fail due to age and then water gets into the actuators and then they fail. Changing crappy old dew wipes will most likely improve the longevity of the actuators, as most of the water just pours into the door.
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  6. #6
    all the CFI are belong to me
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    If the aero version, which I've now looked at and see is quite different but mounts similarly, is a viable option and works better then that's awesome. I only favour the RockAuto house brand Ultra Power because they're the cheapest one on the market of the original design and work fine.

    I've had many issues across multiple cars with sticky/sluggish locks that are not the fault of an underpowered actuator, but a gummed up or sloppy linkage issue. You can put a new actuator in a door and have the lock suck just as much because there's a problem somewhere else in the mechanism.

    As mentioned, once water finds its way past that boot, it's game over. The actuator will be trash soon after.

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  7. #7

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    So the rod can be removed from the stock ones? Iím not having issues with them not working but Iím guessing the rod being slightly longer or shorter is screwing up the geometry causing issues.


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  8. #8
    Beater gonna beat sly's Avatar
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    There's a roll pin holding the rod in place. A small punch will get it out and then you can change the rod over.

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  9. #9

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    Oh ok great, I have an old one lying around I can mess with.


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  10. #10
    GMN Regular Giraffe's Avatar
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    Another option would be rigging up an aftermarket actuator. I've been meaning to do this in accordance with this write up.

    I replaced both rear door lock actuators with aftermarket replacements, however, the passenger side failed again in short order and the driver's side has been actuating very slowly for the past few months. I have to hold the switch for about three to four seconds for it to lock all the way. I don't think good aftermarket, direct-fit replacements exist for our cars.
    óJohn

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  11. #11

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    I put one in sons car. Cheap one from RA. It wouldnt pull/push the linkage at all. I liberally lubed the linkages and the locks and got it to free up and work for now. Time will tell how long it lasts.

  12. #12

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    Iím going to look into the aero actuators for the future. I have to take off the drivers side front door card to fix the window motor anyway so I might as well mess with the actuator while Iím in there. I just want to get them to work like factory not reinvent the wheel.


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  13. #13
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    The stock ones have a clip, not a pin holding it together.

    Pull the actuator out of the bracket and remove the condom
    under that you'll see one of those push clip things at the top of the motor where the rod goes in
    pry that out and carefully remove the cup it holds down
    catch the 3 ball bearings that rolled across the floor into a dark corner
    the rod will just slide out now. Swap that into your replacement actuator and put it back together. A dab of grease will hold the balls in while you put it back together.

    but yeah finding good OE ones is getting hard, and once they get water inside its done. If the dew wipes are in bad shape it will dump even more water down the door which makes it fail quicker. Some of them also had a plastic or rubber shield above the latch that helped direct water out of all that but usually that has fallen apart by now.

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  14. #14

    Default

    Good to know, perhaps I could swap the lock rod onto an aftermarket one to get it to work like factory.


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