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    #16
    Originally posted by Giraffe View Post
    I replaced the ball joints on a similar model focus a few years ago. Removing the rivets is tough, but doable. The factory rivets expand a bit into the ball joint flange, so don't expect them to just fall out when the heads are ground off. They'll need persuasion from a hammer and punch (at least) or an air hammer (preferably).
    Ugh, you weren't kidding. Over an hour into just a single rivet when I decided my time and frustration were worth more. Returned the ball joints and opted for the full control arms instead.

    In the course of fighting with the CV axle on the driver side, I tore the boot. These ones evidently are filled with gear oil rather than a thick grease, because that's what started leaking out. It's a good thing my buddy was working at the parts place because this could have been much more expensive. Got CVs for both sides, anticipating stupidity on the other side too.

    Control arm was off in...I dunno, 10 minutes? The new shaft went in rather nicely, put the new arm in, anti-seized everything liberally, got the driver side back together. Moved on to the passenger side.

    Yanked it all apart pretty uneventfully except for the ball joint pinch bolt, which was corroded in its hole so badly I had to put heat on it to get it out.

    Didn't realize the passenger side axle would not have that irritating clip on it, so I mulled over the idea of not replacing this one and just reusing the old, till I spun the bearing on the shaft and realized it's trashed. Yanked the seal out, popped the new one in, put the new axle in, control arm in, pretty much ready for the knuckle and strut assembly to go back in but I see a section of brake line I'm not super happy with and want to make sure it's not going to require attention before I put stuff back in the way again.












    The scrap pile from this car so far, which will go into the 04 when it goes for scrap:




    Also scoped out how access is to the exhaust flex pipe...not great. I don't see how they're going to do it in the car, the manifold-cat-flex assembly probably needs to come out. But I'm farming that out to a shop and whatever it costs, it costs. It has been previously repaired and appears from the positioning of things that maybe a too-short one was used and it sort of stretched until it detached the flex part from the end.




    Current driver: Ranger
    Panthers: 83 GM 2dr | 84 TC | 85 CS
    | 88 TC | 91 GM
    Not Panthers: 85 Ranger | Ranger trailer | 91 Acclaim | 05 Focus
    Gone: 97 CV | 83 TC | 04 Focus | 86 GM
    | Junkyards

    Comment


      #17
      And the completion of all that:

      I sanded the brake line that looked iffy and decided that while it was not in imminent risk of failing, it would never be as convenient as it was at that exact moment to make a repair to it due to the strut being removed, so I went ahead and did it. Just used the green coated steel stuff since I have a ton of it still. This spot should get oil sprayed anyway.



      Forgive the unnecessary bend - I made it too long and with very nice flares, so decided not to cut and re-do.

      Finished reassembling the front end and filled the trans. 2.1qts, exactly as the spec says, which worked out to exactly 4qts between the Ranger and this.



      Results: 113,384km replaced front lower control arms including bushings and ball joints, trans output shaft seals, CV axles, right front brake line section, and swapped on front tires from parts car.

      Noted that the sway bar end links are still tight, but the outer tie rod ends may be marginal. No real wheel wiggle, but the studs are easy to flop around. Not an immediate concern, but maybe soon.

      Moving on to the rear brakes next.

      There is also an electrical issue causing the charging system light to come on, and while it puts out charging voltage, if the car sits long enough the battery loses enough voltage to not start the car. Hoping it's just the battery, but the alternator is a possibility (rectifier failure). I've now fully charged it out of the car and noted the voltage (12.97V when removed from charger) and will see how much it drops over the next couple days. If the battery is the problem, the parts car one is good, so not really a problem.
      Last edited by kishy; 12-19-2021, 01:56 PM.

      Current driver: Ranger
      Panthers: 83 GM 2dr | 84 TC | 85 CS
      | 88 TC | 91 GM
      Not Panthers: 85 Ranger | Ranger trailer | 91 Acclaim | 05 Focus
      Gone: 97 CV | 83 TC | 04 Focus | 86 GM
      | Junkyards

      Comment


        #18
        Over the weekend, I developed symptoms of a cold, but not the traditional COVID19 symptoms. Regardless, I'm off work pending test results, with the test having been done this morning. Surprise bonus days to make progress!

        Today, I did a few things.

        Replaced the fuel filter. It was on my list and I had the part on-hand, but it became necessary in the moment because I needed it out of the way to manipulate the brake line leading to the blown section at the rear right corner.





        Filter out, disconnected a convenient threaded union between two line segments, re-bent the factory line to where I would be able to work on it easier, then put the fuel filter back in. Verified no fuel leaks, all good on that front.

        Made a new line to replace the bad section using nickel-copper lines with stainless M10 flare nuts. Went together nicely.

















        Filled it up with fluid and got what looked like a good solid bleed out of all 4 corners. Test drive shows the car is able to stop, but the pedal is soft and the warning light turns on during pedal application (as far as I know the only trigger for that specific light is the fluid level float). More to be done here. Wondering if the ABS system is trapping some air, possibly.



        I pulled the rear drums off, which are integrated with the wheel hub and have the wheel bearing pressed into them. Big spindle nut comes off, then drum/hub/bearing assembly slides off the spindle. Found the shoes are at an acceptable wear level and decided I'd put it back together. Noticed that the drums had a lip on them. Don't have an adequate caliper or micrometer to measure drums, but I checked the parts car and found it has literally almost brand new rear drums (and shoes and hardware). Unlike the front brakes, the rears do seem to interchange. I swapped the drums between the cars (life's easier without the lip on the drums) and am giving thought to taking the shoes and hardware while I'm at it. It's essentially free, but since I won't be re-assembling the brakes on the parts car if I do this, it will make that vehicle no longer capable of being moved under its own power. Unless I put bolts in the ABS pump outlet ports. Maybe not the worst idea ever since I do still want it to be able to move.







        I did find the 05 now has ABS and TC warning lights illuminated, and then an additional familiar light bulb turned on in my head. I confirmed by hooking the laptop with FORscan to the car. This car has rear wheel speed sensors, and it seems the drums off the other car do not have the tone rings needed for that system. So regardless of taking shoes and hardware, I have to go back in there again anyway. Looking at the photo above, though, it isn't clear to me what's even different. That ribbed-looking cap on the inside of the hub section must be removable.

        The electrical problem: the battery held a charge in a way I'd call healthy. Took off the charger at 12.96V. It settled to 12.75 or so, sitting out of the car, and stayed steady there. I put it in the car to briefly start it and move it a couple times and found it in the mid-12.5s. Although the charging system voltage on the car is 13.5-14.5 (it fluctuates), the charge light is on intermittently, and vehicle electronics (most noticeably lights) waver in intensity. If I apply a lot of electrical loads and suddenly turn them all off, the voltage jumps over a bit, then stabilizes, so the regulator is working. The battery cables do have a fair bit of corrosion, but the fact that it will start makes me suspect the alternator may be the issue (rectifier being the likely culprit). Unfortunately, it's a big pain of a job to do on the Duratec cars, as it's on the rear side of the engine. It does not cross with the Zetec parts car, either. Further diagnosis pending. Not throwing an alternator at it until I have a better idea of what's going on.

        The code for the charging system is vague and doesn't come back to any one specific problem. The car sees a problem but doesn't know what it is.

        Last edited by kishy; 12-22-2021, 01:36 AM.

        Current driver: Ranger
        Panthers: 83 GM 2dr | 84 TC | 85 CS
        | 88 TC | 91 GM
        Not Panthers: 85 Ranger | Ranger trailer | 91 Acclaim | 05 Focus
        Gone: 97 CV | 83 TC | 04 Focus | 86 GM
        | Junkyards

        Comment


          #19
          Merry Christmas, all.

          Chasing the charge system warning light and vague code that indicates a problem, but not what the problem is:

          DC charging voltage is a pretty solid 14.5, I see no concern there.

          Decided to measure AC voltage.
          Digital multimeter in 200VAC range, saw 00.0V.
          Analog multimeter in 50VAC range, saw 33VAC.

          Unless I am mistaken, this seems like way too much AC voltage and probably speaks to a blown rectifier diode. My only uncertainty is why the digital meter shows nothing, but both meters are used heavily and have always behaved as I expect them to.

          Pending the results of any Googling or replies here saying otherwise, it looks like I'm buying an alternator. The parts car one is not the same unfortunately.

          Edit: I had a thought, and checked with the same 50VAC scale on my booster pack, which definitely doesn't have any means of generating AC. I saw just under 30V, maybe 28VAC. Maybe this is a false reading.
          Last edited by kishy; 12-26-2021, 04:20 PM.

          Current driver: Ranger
          Panthers: 83 GM 2dr | 84 TC | 85 CS
          | 88 TC | 91 GM
          Not Panthers: 85 Ranger | Ranger trailer | 91 Acclaim | 05 Focus
          Gone: 97 CV | 83 TC | 04 Focus | 86 GM
          | Junkyards

          Comment


            #20
            Could you swap the regulators?
            —John

            1985 Ford F-150 XLT Lariat
            1990 Mercury Grand Marquis LS (POTM March 2017 & May 2019 - gone, but not forgotten)
            1995 Mustang SVT Cobra coupe (cream puff)
            1966 Mustang coupe (restoration in-progress)

            Comment


              #21
              Put the DVM to the lowest AC setting and see if it sees anything. Typical ripple should be around 100mV or so IIRC, maybe more, maybe less, but there will be some AC below 1V. An oscilloscope would be good to have to check that signal over time to see if it's momentary spikes, possibly indicating a bad spot in the rotation. Did you measure at the battery or the alt? If at the alt, check the battery end. There may also be another fuse somewhere for charge sense that might have popped. Not sure what the setup is in a Focus.

              Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
              rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)
              Originally posted by gadget73
              ... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.
              Originally posted by dmccaig
              Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.

              Comment


                #22
                . The battery cables do have a fair bit of corrosion, but the fact that it will start makes me suspect the alternator may be the issue
                Can you make it change behaviour by moving the wires at the connectors? Possible internal corrosion at a crimp making it randomnly act up. Loose connection on the alternator connector (the small one). I'd also crack the alternator mount bolts loose and retighten if there is any corrosion at those (quick ground "cleaning").

                If this is your first ford pcm controlled alternator, SMA for your viewing pleasure; https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fWu8uFj-a7E
                Mostly to see what the waveforms are because they ain't always what you think they should be.

                Comment


                  #23
                  Originally posted by Giraffe View Post
                  Could you swap the regulators?
                  Unfortunately, the regulator is fully internal to the housing as well, which means full removal of the alternator is needed to gain access to it.

                  Even if it was like a 3G, access to the alternator is very tight and is done from under the car. Full removal would probably end up being preferable regardless.

                  Originally posted by sly View Post
                  Put the DVM to the lowest AC setting and see if it sees anything. Typical ripple should be around 100mV or so IIRC, maybe more, maybe less, but there will be some AC below 1V. An oscilloscope would be good to have to check that signal over time to see if it's momentary spikes, possibly indicating a bad spot in the rotation. Did you measure at the battery or the alt? If at the alt, check the battery end. There may also be another fuse somewhere for charge sense that might have popped. Not sure what the setup is in a Focus.
                  My digital meter's lowest AC setting is 200VAC, but even then it does do one decimal place, but showed 00.0. But regardless, we know the analog meter's findings were bogus because it shows essentially the same from a DC battery outside of a vehicle.

                  I agree about a scope; I intend to get one eventually.

                  Measurements taken at the battery. Charging voltage does get there. Also, the amp light is a "consistently intermittent" fault: start car, light off. Run for maybe a minute, light comes on. I think the circuit is intact and the alt is misbehaving. The PCM is diagnosing a fault and getting mad about it.

                  Originally posted by GM_Guy View Post
                  Can you make it change behaviour by moving the wires at the connectors? Possible internal corrosion at a crimp making it randomnly act up. Loose connection on the alternator connector (the small one). I'd also crack the alternator mount bolts loose and retighten if there is any corrosion at those (quick ground "cleaning").

                  If this is your first ford pcm controlled alternator, SMA for your viewing pleasure; https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fWu8uFj-a7E
                  Mostly to see what the waveforms are because they ain't always what you think they should be.
                  No physical access to the wiring at the alternator while the car is running, but the pattern of how the problem happens makes me think the wiring is fine (or fine enough).

                  It is indeed a PCM-controlled-regulator alternator (110A 6G). I like SMA's videos, lots of good troubleshooting typically.

                  Focus people have told me that my symptoms are very common with this alternator and it's textbook bad alternator (something about a weak brush+slip ring design that isn't good for a lot of mileage before they give up). One has been been ordered.

                  Further assessment of the main battery positive cable is pending; the jacket is split for the first couple inches down from the terminal, and it's visibly shiny copper mixed with some green. I need to split the cable further down and see where the green stops to better decide on a path forward. The battery cable assembly is available new but at 100 bucks to my door, I'm not doing that until I determine I can't somehow fix what's here now.

                  Eyeing Standard Motor Products QC10 (https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...k=663386&jsn=3) which is a repair cable end only: cut the crusty cable a few inches down, then splice this thing on using a terminal with a bolt clamping down on the cable. If the crusties end right below the split jacket, I'm going to go this route rather than replace the cable entirely.

                  Edit: there are actually a variety of neat repair cables from Standard, QC10 through QC17 (a couple numbers are skipped). I had never realized this type of repair item existed, a nice option for vehicles with long/complicated positive cables that are just corroded near the terminal.
                  Last edited by kishy; 12-29-2021, 04:07 PM.

                  Current driver: Ranger
                  Panthers: 83 GM 2dr | 84 TC | 85 CS
                  | 88 TC | 91 GM
                  Not Panthers: 85 Ranger | Ranger trailer | 91 Acclaim | 05 Focus
                  Gone: 97 CV | 83 TC | 04 Focus | 86 GM
                  | Junkyards

                  Comment


                    #24
                    A few days ago, I knocked the passenger front lower ball joint apart to install the metal shield thing. No idea what it really does, but it seems to me it's either a heat or debris shield to protect the ball joint boot (or the grease within). I dunno. Ford thought it belonged there so I'll play along.

                    I did order a couple of the Standard QC10 item mentioned in the above reply. Tonight, I cut back the crusty positive cable and found it was pretty much toast near the terminal, but several inches back I found clean copper. An ideal use case for the repair cable.

                    Stuffed it full of anti-corrosion goo and put it together. Seemed to work well. Guess we'll see in the long run. The black plastic box goes over the finished connection, and I filled it with more of the goo before closing it and then taping it closed in addition to its small latch tab.

                    The crusty cable goes directly to the starter and I don't think it feeds anything else. The car did crank slowly, and that level of corrosion was going to cause issues soon enough regardless. The main positive to the rest of the car is a second cable that bolts onto the crusty one at the terminal. It eyeballs as being OK but I may decide to strip it back somewhat and verify. Battery's out anyway, might as well.

                    Found some grounds that look like they probably don't conduct at all, so that's getting done next.











                    Immediate priorities: try to clean up those grounds, swap alternator, rear brake completion, full brake bleed again.

                    Current driver: Ranger
                    Panthers: 83 GM 2dr | 84 TC | 85 CS
                    | 88 TC | 91 GM
                    Not Panthers: 85 Ranger | Ranger trailer | 91 Acclaim | 05 Focus
                    Gone: 97 CV | 83 TC | 04 Focus | 86 GM
                    | Junkyards

                    Comment


                      #25
                      Neat repair thing.
                      ~David~

                      My 1987 Crown Victoria Coupe: The Brown Blob
                      My 2004 Mercedes Benz E320:The Benz

                      Originally posted by ootdega
                      My life is a long series of "nevermind" and "I guess not."

                      Originally posted by DerekTheGreat
                      But, that's just coming from me, this site's biggest pessimist. Best of luck

                      Originally posted by gadget73
                      my car starts and it has AC. Yours doesn't start and it has no AC. Seems obvious to me.




                      Comment


                        #26
                        Never seen one of those battery repair pigtails before. You'd think something like that would be everywhere, especially around here.

                        Comment


                          #27
                          Would you still have the packaging /brand and part number for that battery pig tail ? I have not seen those in a long time and could use a couple.

                          Comment


                            #28
                            I don't have the packaging for it because it came without packaging. I can only assume RockAuto had issues fitting things in the box or something. No tag or anything on it as I received it.

                            Produced by Standard Motor Products. Part number is QC10. I bought them from RockAuto. I tried at my local parts place, which does have access to Standard, but they were not able to source this specific part.
                            Last edited by kishy; 02-14-2022, 01:12 AM.

                            Current driver: Ranger
                            Panthers: 83 GM 2dr | 84 TC | 85 CS
                            | 88 TC | 91 GM
                            Not Panthers: 85 Ranger | Ranger trailer | 91 Acclaim | 05 Focus
                            Gone: 97 CV | 83 TC | 04 Focus | 86 GM
                            | Junkyards

                            Comment


                              #29
                              They're pretty much standard affair at most parts stores I've been too/worked at around here, they make them in several types for different gauge wires and side post versions of the same. They're not very expensive (basically cost the same as a short length of cable and a couple good terminals), and assuming you get a good connection at the splice they're a good way to avoid a total cable replacement as long as you've got good cable within 6" or so of the end.

                              My preferred terminal replacement method is to crimp or solder eyelets onto the cable (then heatshrink) and use a terminal that an eyelet can bolt onto, also sold as a kit at most stores around here. I like that setup because it means you can easily replace the terminals in the future if needed without having to cut the cable every time, some OEMs terminate their battery cables like that (Nissan and Chrysler come to mind). However, that only works if the cable is still long enough..
                              -Steve

                              2006 Audi A6 S-Line FWD ~132k miles, stock.
                              1998 Mercury Grand Marquis LS HPP ~102k miles, slowly acquiring modifications.
                              1997 Lincoln Town Car Cartier ~145k miles, Ported Plenum, Gutted Airbox, Mechanical Fan Delete, Contour E-fan Retrofit, Dual exhaust, Cats ran away, KYB Gas-A-Justs, P71 front sway bar, air ride reinstalled, Blinker Mod, Projector headlight retrofit, Caddy 4-note horn retrofit, Wood rim steering wheel, rustbelt diet plan..
                              1996 Mercury Grand Marquis GS 117,485mi. R.I.P. 7/14/12

                              Comment


                                #30
                                As tends to happen over the winter, particularly when intaking parts from junkyards and new tools and stuff, my garage fills with haphazardly-placed stuff to the point of being basically unusable for any purpose. In the spring, I start organizing and tidying, and putting things where they belong, and purging, and then I can actually get some stuff done. I am now at the point where I need flat surfaces to box some stuff for shipping, and don't have any available...except the floor where the Focus is sitting. Time to make some progress on this stupid thing.

                                Following up on points raised in recent replies above:

                                I re-bled the passenger front brake, since the wheel was off anyway and I had air in the system last time I played with it. Remaining 3-wheel re-bleeding to follow. I tightened up the fasteners I messed with last time I was in there, and put the wheel on.

                                I removed the rear drums and installed the ABS tone rings onto them using a block of wood and a mallet. They seemed to go on straight; only time will tell if they work at this point. I also swapped in the complete shoe and hardware assemblies taken off the parts car (RE: brand new rear brakes on it), and put the drums back on. These are self-adjusting (not in the way we think of with Panther drums - supposedly much better), but mashing the pedal, I don't think anything happened. The parking brake needs adjusting (works but only engages right at the top of the lever's travel), and before I mess with it, I wanted to make sure the service brake adjustment is where it belongs first.

                                I set about dealing with those super corroded grounds I found.
                                -Front right corner, behind headlamp, thin wire emerges from harness and is bolted to inner fender structure with a ring terminal.
                                -Front left corner, beside battery, medium wire emerges from harness and is bolted to inner fender structure with a ring terminal.
                                -Front left corner, beside battery, main battery negative cable for the body is bolted to inner fender structure with a ring terminal.
                                -Two individual thin wires originating from different harnesses attach with ring terminals directly to a factory-supplied stud on the negative battery terminal.
                                All of these had quite corroded ring terminals, the points on the body they attach to were quite corroded, and in some cases the wire was bad back a few inches and had to be replaced/extended.
                                For the main battery negative cable, I used a hydraulic cable lug crimper to put a proper heavy duty end on the cable.
                                All connections cleaned and anti-corrosion goo added in key places.

                                Re-installed the battery tray. Re-installed the battery. Joined the body main positive cable to the (previously, above, replaced) positive terminal.











                                Considered the possibility that a grounding problem had been the source of the charge light being on. Started car. Turned on some loads. Charge light came on. As before, charging voltage is acceptable, but did note that it seems slow to recover from a momentary increase in load. I have an alternator for it, but just want to cross my i's and dot my t's here before firing the parts cannon.

                                Did observe that the alternator currently installed is already a replacement. Determined this because a wire loom attaching bracket which is supposed to be bolted down with one of the alternator mounting bolts is not bolted to it; just hanging beside it. Wondering if that was changed in pursuit of this issue, or if this issue is the result of a low quality alternator, or if the issue is genuinely still something else. Anyone's guess at this point. Can't inspect wiring attachments to alternator until I dig in for the replacement.

                                Exhaust flex pipe is a stupid bear of a job. Ended up buying a 48-state replacement for the Cali-spec manifold-cat dealie, because the Cali cars have a bolt-on flex pipe (therefore more serviceable). 48-state cat so it was cheap, Cali-spec design part for fitment. We'll see if that somehow bites me later. Also occurs to me that since the flex currently in place is already a replacement, this probably has one or more bad engine mounts, so I'm looking into that as well. Still can't believe some idiot engineer OK'd combining the manifold with the cat and flex all as one piece. These components do not have the same lifespan as each other in most vehicles.

                                Noticed a centre brake lamp bulb out; replaced it.

                                Need to look at the clutch pedal switch. Car won't crank unless the pedal is pushed pretty forcefully into the floor mat; I feel like this isn't quite right. This is the cause of a problem I earlier suspected was a voltage-related refusal to start, but I've narrowed it to the clutch switch for sure - just don't know if it's "bad" or can be adjusted back to where I'd prefer it to be.

                                Last edited by kishy; 04-26-2022, 09:16 PM.

                                Current driver: Ranger
                                Panthers: 83 GM 2dr | 84 TC | 85 CS
                                | 88 TC | 91 GM
                                Not Panthers: 85 Ranger | Ranger trailer | 91 Acclaim | 05 Focus
                                Gone: 97 CV | 83 TC | 04 Focus | 86 GM
                                | Junkyards

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