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Thread: Heater Core Write Up

  1. #121
    I post a lot... knucklehead0202's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2015
    Southern Commiefornia


    Ya know, there's companies that do water-pipe re-lining, why not do that for shit like heater cores? I'm a plumber but I know fuck-all about that stuff, I just wonder. Sounds like some cheesy shitass stopgap measure for lazy clowns afraid to do things the right way, but it's got to have some kind of positives if it's actually been done successfully. We could make a good business of it in place of spending a whole goddamned day with the whole dash of our car torn apart. I'll do some research....

  2. #122
    Stow It! GM_Guy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Ontario, Canada


    Ya know, there's companies that do water-pipe re-lining, why not do that for shit like heater cores?
    Passages too small. No way to know if the leak is too big for the liner, inability to properly drain the core of excess due to positioning (tubes on top, and in the case of the cvgm cores, its a U-shaped core with both header tanks at the top). Can't ensure a good clean bond. Stupid people using it causing legal headaches when they end up plugging something elsewhere in their cooling system, and most important, poor heat transfer.


  3. #123


    Reviving this old thread to say how much I freaking hate photobucket for ruining so many great posts on forums across the web!

    Quote Originally Posted by VicCrownVic View Post
    About 9 months ago I said I would do a write up for the heater core replacement on my 91 MGM... After a lot of time spent not working on it, I think I've reached the point where I'm ready to post. So here's a test of the length limit for a single post.

    The following procedure is based on my own experience replacing the heater core in my 1991 Mercury Grand Marquis. My car has ATC but there shouldn’t be too many differences for a non ATC car.
    This procedure can be used as a guide for Mercury Grand Marquis and Ford Crown Victoria model year 1990-1991 (Lincoln Towncars are probably very similar). This guide may be very close to correct for newer models since the 90-91 dash is more similar to the newer models (at least up to 94). For 1989 and older models, look to the beginning of this thread.
    This guide is a combination of how I did it and what I would do different next time. The steps can be performed in your own preferred order (where possible). This guide is broken into 3 sections: Driver Side, Engine Bay, and Passenger Side. This guide is not guaranteed to be complete or correct, please add any corrections or suggestions to the thread.

    This guide does not imply any level of safety; you are solely responsible for your own safety. This does not mean that there is anything unsafe about the procedure, but that as a non-professional/backyard mechanic I am unable to guarantee any level of safety. If there are any safety precautions that need to be addressed, please add to the thread. (I'm sure GMN probably has some kind of site disclaimer somewhere.)
    The airbag system may not need to be disabled for this procedure, but for peace of mind I will mention it. The 1991 Ford Shop Manual says that the airbag system’s backup power supply "is a capacitor that will leak down approximately 15 minutes after the battery is disconnected or in one minute if the battery positive cable is grounded."

    Recommended tools:
    3/8 inch drive ratchet
    A couple of 3/8 inch drive extensions, various lengths
    1/4 inch drive ratchet
    Small 1/4 inch drive extension

    5.5mm socket
    7mm or 9/32 socket/nut driver
    8mm or 5/16 socket or nut driver
    10mm socket
    11mm or 7/16 open end wrench
    11mm or 7/16 socket
    13mm deep-well socket
    15mm socket

    Phillips head screwdriver
    Something small to push the tension clip on the headlight knob (jeweler’s screwdriver, pick, etc.)
    Something to pry the gasket/weather strip from the old heater core

    T20 Torx driver
    Trim removal tools (some may say this is not optional)
    Something to plug the heater core lines to prevent spillage

    Driver Side
    1. Remove RH and LH lower moldings
    These trim pieces should just pull right off.

    2. Remove the headlight switch knob
    Push the tension clip by pushing a small tool, such as a jeweler’s screwdriver, pick, or similar tool into the notch at the base of the headlight knob.

    3. Remove the finish panel
    There are 8 screws that hold my finish panel on. You can use a T20 Torx driver, a 7mm socket, or a 9/32 socket. The screw directly above the steering column is easier to get at with a socket and a ratchet.
    (Pay no attention to the radio being removed in the "after" picture, it does not need to be removed, these pictures were taken a few months apart.)


  4. #124
    Approaching 2 decades of DDing Box Panthers VicCrownVic's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Shelby Township, MI


    I've been meaning to get around to editing that post (well, editing and sending to an admin). I think I got as far as copying the entire post but never got around to moving pictures to a new host, so no editing actually ever happened. I have all the original pictures somewhere on one of my computers, so I shouldn't need to wade through all the BS on PB.

    ~ 1991 Mercury Grand Marquis LS "The Scab" - plenty of rot, summer DD
    ~ 1997 GMC Yukon - wannabe winter DD - I'll fix it eventually
    ~ 1991 Mercury Grand Marquis GS "The Ice Car" - My rotting winter DD
    ~ 1989 Mercury Grand Marquis GS - Rotting Retired DD
    Gone but not forgotten:
    ~ 1988 Country Squire ~ 1987 Ford Crown Vic

  5. #125


    Cool. I've used Flickr for a quite a while and have been very happy with it. No issue and free.

  6. #126
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2005


    if someone can send me the pics, I'll just attach them using the forum software. Eliminates the need for hosting bullshit entirely.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

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