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Thread: My 1983 Continental Mark VI!

  1. #341
    fomoco panthers !
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    That is all I buy are the riveted brake linings/pads for drum or disc brakes. Maybe now bonded linings/pads have better "glue" but many years ago they didn't. If a pad or lining came loose, it would mess things up badly. More attention is needed with riveted linings/pads wear due to rivets. Don't want rivets scoring the drums or rotors.

  2. #342
    GMN Regular DerekTheGreat's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mercurygm88 View Post
    Actually the drums slid right off...
    They were out of adjustment then.

    When done right and on there for awhile, the shoes tend to wear a little groove in the drum. This makes getting the drums off a bit of a challenge. Luckily, Ford gave us an access slot for adjustment, which you can also use to back the shoes off. This is of course if the stuff isn't rusted together.
    1985 LTD Crown Victoria - SOLD
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  3. #343
    What a Luxury car should be. mercurygm88's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mainemantom View Post
    That is all I buy are the riveted brake linings/pads for drum or disc brakes. Maybe now bonded linings/pads have better "glue" but many years ago they didn't. If a pad or lining came loose, it would mess things up badly. More attention is needed with riveted linings/pads wear due to rivets. Don't want rivets scoring the drums or rotors.
    Iíve only been working on cars for about 15 years now and I have never seen riveted pads before just shoes. We donít even sell them at work nor can we order them. My manager has been in the business for 25 years and said heís never seen them either. In fact I canít find anyone whoís seen riveted pads except online. The internet seems to concur that at one point people at least believed they were superior to bonded pads, but Iíve yet to find a single report of bonded pads coming off the backing plate.
    Last edited by mercurygm88; 08-12-2022 at 01:09 AM.

  4. #344
    What a Luxury car should be. mercurygm88's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DerekTheGreat View Post
    They were out of adjustment then.

    When done right and on there for awhile, the shoes tend to wear a little groove in the drum. This makes getting the drums off a bit of a challenge. Luckily, Ford gave us an access slot for adjustment, which you can also use to back the shoes off. This is of course if the stuff isn't rusted together.
    Drums are weird and I donít trust them. That being said they were working awfully good for being out of adjustment. That is until about 100 miles before I changed then when the internals of the passenger side drum disassembled themselves/disintegrated. When I first installed the new pads and hardware I didnít have them adjusted right and you could certainly tell. I went back and correctly adjusted them last night and my braking has greatly improved.

  5. #345
    GMN Regular DerekTheGreat's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mercurygm88 View Post
    Iíve only been working on cars for about 15 years now and I have never seen riveted pads before just shoes. We donít even sell them at work nor can we order them. My manager has been in the business for 25 years and said heís never seen them either. In fact I canít find anyone whoís seen riveted pads except online. The internet seems to concur that at one point people at least believed they were superior to bonded pads, but Iíve yet to find a single report of bonded pads coming off the backing plate.
    My '69 Plymouth had drums on all four corners. If I remember right, every pad was bonded to the shoe and each one was detached. Guess they've got a shelf life. I do get a little leery when I get handed bonded shoes, but I've installed them before. I've also installed riveted shoes, which I trust a bit more. But yeah, decreased life as you've now got a rivet eating valuable pad real estate. I'm not THAT old, but I suspect your manager hasn't put much time in with a wrench while not behind the counter.

    Quote Originally Posted by mercurygm88 View Post
    Drums are weird and I donít trust them. That being said they were working awfully good for being out of adjustment. That is until about 100 miles before I changed then when the internals of the passenger side drum disassembled themselves/disintegrated. When I first installed the new pads and hardware I didnít have them adjusted right and you could certainly tell. I went back and correctly adjusted them last night and my braking has greatly improved.
    Unless the starwheel suddenly rusted apart, I question how well they were working since you were able to slide the drums right off. When they're right, you should have minimal pedal travel and yeah, noticeably good brakes, or better brakes if you adjusted ones that were out of adjustment.

    They're only weird because they're new to you and a better alternative exists. For decades and even still today, they are a good choice for many applications.
    My first experience with drum brakes on a daily driver was with my 1994 Grand Am. Needed front brakes, so I pad slapped it. About ten thousand miles later, needed brakes again, so I ripped the rears apart. Found the problem, rears weren't doing squat- drums slid right off and were rusty where the shoes should have been making contact. Once fixed, wow that thing stopped great. Seeing as it was my first car, WTF did I know about brakes and general expectations of stopping power?
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  6. #346
    fomoco panthers !
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    I remember many years ago, when a person ordered brake linings/pads the least expensive parts would be the bonded type. Great for vehicle resale or the economy minded. I had to replace all brake linings on a 59 Ford. I put bonded on for resale. $6.00 per axle if I remember right. The riveted type was more expensive and mostly top brands. Old brake linings sometimes had to be turned in as cores to be rebuilt. Our 1960 Studebaker was that way. I had a 69 Dodge pickup that had the rear bonded linings come apart when I was on the highway going from Long Beach to San Diego. I did not notice anything wrong until I arrived. Brake fade,very hot wheel and totally destroyed the brake components, plus the axle seal. That experience made me buy the riveted type whenever available. I will admit that my experiences in working with vehicles goes back 50 years or more. Lot of things have changed and parts are much cheaper quality now.

  7. #347
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    only thing I own with drums anymore is my truck. They didn't work when I got it, shoes had been changed and never adjusted out enough for the self-adjust to work. Fixed that, good to go. One major advantage to drums, the parking brake is way better using a full size shoe vs the baby drum inside the disc thing. Maybe not a big deal on a car, but in a truck on a boat ramp thats pretty damn important.



    drums are sort of annoying because of all the parts inside but not really all that hard. Best advice I can offer with drums, do one side at a time and use the other for reference.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

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  8. #348
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    They seemed to fix that issue in the later ones. The double shoe clamping force inside the rotors on the rear holds my expedition good enough that it takes a LOT of revs to overcome it. Do have to manually adjust those bastards though.

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  9. #349
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    my only real experience with them is the rear discs on a Towncar, and as a parking brake it kind of sucks. The stupid clampy cable caliper nonsense the other two have sucks in different ways, not the least of which is the calipers more expensive. Towncar rear caliper is like 25 bucks, Mark VII rear is 50 bucks, the Conti is NLA. If one of them ever gives me problems I will have to rebuild it myself. Last I remember seeing a listing it was like 100 bucks.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

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