89 LTC timing gear and chain repalcement

[Mainemantom]

Since I am replacing the water pump on the LTC, I am wanting to replace the timing gear and chain. Car has 236,000 on the original timing gear and chain. I have not done one of these for maybe 30 years. Is the double roller chain and gears a direct fit if mine has the single roller ? Is there a brand that is better then others. I am considering the Cloyes brand. Are there any "tips" that can make the job easier ?

[Alice87]

I recently used the Cloyes double roller on my '87 lopo without issue... had a loose single chain originally. New chain made a noticeable improvement over old loose chain; has over 2000 miles and is doing great.

Wish I had some tips to give... but really it is just a matter of cleaning the gasket surfaces and unbolting/re-tightening everything carefully. Its not hard as long as you have the tools and time, its just a matter of keeping clean and not letting crude fall down into the oil pan.

Check your balancer for wear... the rubber tends to separate and it will need replaced if its spun.

-Kyle

[Arquemann]

Drain the coolant with the nose down, and then have car nose up when you remove the water pump and timing cover. Or open the block drains. That way you'll have way less coolant going into the open oil pan.

I've got a Melling double roller in mine. Mine's an adjustable set, which I've installed 4 degrees advanced for a bit more pep out of the low compression engine.

[gadget73]

Double roller goes right in, no fuss. Fair guess the original is already a double roller.

Good time to replace the balancer if it needs it. A tiny dab of RTV in the keyway of the balancer also will help keep it from wicking oil out and slinging it around.

[WagonMan]

Worst thing that can happen is the water pump bolts break off. New ones are available if needed. WagonMan

[Mainemantom]

I have the water pump, hoses and thermostat off already. One of the bolts did break but I got it out easily. I bought some Dorman replacement bolts. Anti seize will be put on all bolts during re-assembly. I ordered the cloyes gears and chain and the Felpro gasket set from Rock Auto last night. I have to be mindful of getting debris into the oil pan. I may just tape that off until re-assembly. Good idea with replacing the balancer. I understand the oil seal has to watched, as the seal has a habit of turning when putting the balancer back on. A little oil on the shaft of the balancer should help.

[gadget73]

run a tap in the water pump bolt holes if you have one, or take a 5/16 bolt, grind a slot in it with a cutoff wheel, and use that to clean the trash out of the threads before running new bolts in. Don't need or want the old trash in the threads causing you trouble.

Last pump I did used my intake manifold alignment bolts to hang the gasket and make assembly a bit easier. its just a pair of bolts long enough to stick past the water pump with it installed. Heads get cut off and a slot cut into the end for a screwdriver just in case. Thread them in somewhere that its convenient and they make a handy guide for assembly.

I usually wipe a bit of grease or oil on the balancer snout so it doesn't stick to the seal.

[Mainemantom]

Thanks, that is good information.

[kishy]

RE: Trash in oil pan
Do keep in mind that, when the timing cover separates from the block, coolant will run down in between and get into the oil pan. This is basically unavoidable. So regardless of how effectively you protect the oil pan from having assorted dirt fall into it, plan on changing the oil, or at least change the front sump's worth of oil. The coolant will sink below the oil so it should stay contained to the front sump.

[Alice87]

Yea agreed, I changed the oil and filter when I did mine as well. Not worth risking imo. Main thing is to not let big chunks of gasket to fall in there. I put a bunch of blue paper towels down in there to catch debris while scraping the old gasket off. also did my best to wipe it all clean.

+1 on running a tap through the thread holes.

Another thing, I used lucas assembly lube on the chain just to be safe.

I guess I got lucky with my pump bolts, the threads all cleaned up nice with a mild brush wheel. I had to make a cardboard diagram to keep those bolts organized lol. That and take lots of pictures.

[gadget73]

The original engine in the Towncar got replaced when I did an intake manifold gasket and didn't change the oil immediately. The bit of coolant that got down there was enough to scrub the last iota of clearance off the bearings, leaving me with no oil pressure at driving speeds.

If you use a shop vac in the inlet of the water pump it will pull some more coolant out than just gravity will allow for if you'd like to minimize that. In theory the block drains are the way to go but I've always been afraid to really lean on those things when they haven't ever been removed before